[snaponbob]

After 5 events, two test and tunes, and an Evo Challenge I have learned a lot. Much translates from previous car set ups, but many things are new to deal with (full double wishbone independent suspension, power, turbo, etc.), so more has to be learned.

1) Kappas are basically engineered to understeer (GM always does this). With ANY setup on a Kappa toe IN on the front will make that worse. With almost ANY car a bit of front toe out will help turn in. The cost will be increased street tire wear, and the car will "nibble" at crowns and uneven pavement.
2) Stock alignment is .5 degree negative camber front and rear, 8 deg neg caster front and 4 deg neg rear, zero toe front and rear. Although caster is important, it will be hard to maintain it when a bunch of camber is cranked in. The rear may be impossible to retain is the GM Kappa caster gauge is not available. Front caster retention will be a function a matter of how the frame was welded up. Some people with older Kappas retained high caster numbers at 2.5 neg front camber, but most will see caster loss past 2 deg neg front camber (as I did). The critical aspect is EQUAL (or near equal) caster side to side to avoid induced pull.
3) My first alignment was 1.75 neg camber front and 1 deg neg camber rear, zero toe f/r, 7.5 neg caster front, rear unknown. IT HELPED. The understeer threshold was raised, but was still there. On Hoosier A6's set at about 40f/38r I was still killing the front tires. (Partially set up, partially driver!!)
4) Second alignment was 2.3 neg camber front, 1.5 neg camber rear, zero toe, 6.6 neg caster front, unknown rear. IT HELPED, but only "some". Same tire issues, but again at a higher threshold.
5) Installed FE2 front bar to "hook up" the front and balance the "workload" front to rear. WOW!!!!! Oh, the front end is "hooked up". At 40/38 the car was nearly undriveable. The car now felt like a drifter. I finally set the tires to 44/36 and things were much better.
6) There is room on the FE2 bar to drill another link hole forward of the stock hole, and that will stiffen the bar a little but I do not know how much. This should help balance the car some.
7) Koni single adjustables should be available in June/July. This will really allow some chassis tuning.
8) Currently I am in discussions with a fabricator in Florida for an adjustable front sway bar. (In SCCA Solo stock class only the front bar can be used for tuning. Shocks can be changed, springs can not.) Once I have the bar issue settled I will install polyurethane bushings for the bar's frame mounts.
9) Gearing SUCKS, and the car is heavy. Get this - Redline/GXP = 3050 pounds, Corvette ZO6 = 3200 pounds (yes, I know, ZO6 is an S/S car, but you get the point) C4 and C5 Vettes = ~3300 pounds, S2000 = 2750 pounds.

Upcoming changes --
1) Hawk pads (got 'em, doing them next week)
2) Konis as soon as available.
3) Modify FE2 bar.
4) If I can't get an adjustable front bar I'll extend the FE3 bar and try that.
5) My driving!!!!
6) Replace two corded A6s (next week). May change to V710s to keep from going broke.
7) Driving to Eau Claire, Wisc., Monday to have Curt Engineering fit a trailer hitch so I can tow my tires at 25 MPG instead of towing my Redline at 9 MPG.
8) Start changing the toe out at events to about 1/16th to help turn in.