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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-29-2012, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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second time into limp mode in 2 weeks

I already wrote about this 2 or 3 weeks ago but now i have a few more details. I must say that the last time i posted about this same problem, i just washed the whole engine and thought it was the reason of failure (wet connectors) but i do not think so anymore...
If i drive at around 20 mph and go WOT and the engine revs up to around 6000 rpm, the car goes immediatly into limp mode and the orange check engine light comes on. The sky is then limited to about 10 mph and whenever i'm about to stop, the transmission is shifting really funny and hard. I end up turning the ignition off for about 3-4 minutes and everything comes back to normal and the check engine turns off after a few starts. I will try to get the code tomorrow and let you know and till then hope someone could give me some feedback on the same problem.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 10:05 AM
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Depends on the code, but sounds like a stripped intake pipe clamp. At high boost it lets charge-air out of one of the rubber pipe joints. Difficult to tell by just looking at it as everything can seem fine. The problem seems to occur mostly on either end of the rubber elbow on the driver side, between the long curved aluminum intake pipe and the throttle body on the engine intake.

Common issue with the worm clamps from the factory - you should replace with T-clamps. DDM sells a set of the 6 different clamps you need for ~$25.

You (may) have this:


You need these:

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for your reply but my engine is non turbo (2.4L). I should of mention it from start sorry.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 10:28 AM
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If you washed your engine some water may have got in to the spark plug/coil pack area. If you have a misfire code this is probably your issue. You can remove each coil pack and let them air dry for a couple of hours. When you replace them, make sure you put a dab of some dielectric grease inside each coil pack before replacing them. Let us know what you find out.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 10:38 AM
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Exclamation

I do believe this is absolutely the first "limp mode" post on an NA..
And frankly I am shocked, it'll be interesting what the cause is on this one...

Getting the code will be most interesting, also if it is reproducible... that will make it easier to find the culprit IMHO..

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 02:00 PM
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Try a $3 can of MAF cleaner... pull your MAF sensor and spray it to death... dont be bashful.

That happened to my car once, and the maf cleansing straightened it out.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 03:32 PM
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I'm thinking that MB may be correct: I do not recall anyone with an NA actually going into limp mode before.

We have seen a few failures, but nothing that shoved them into limp mode.

I agree with others: Start with the basics, especially since you washed the engine bay.

Stop by an auto parts store and have them read the error codes for you, that would certainly help with diagnostics.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by miller11386 View Post
Try a $3 can of MAF cleaner... pull your MAF sensor and spray it to death... dont be bashful.

That happened to my car once, and the maf cleansing straightened it out.
Ahh perhaps he is using an oiled air filter..

Re-reading the OP post..
He said he washed his engine bay, I quote ( "i just washed the whole engine and thought it was the reason of failure (wet connectors)" )) in our cars there are "sensitive" electronic control systems, including the ECM, if water is still dormant, or puddling up, sprayed onto/into connectors etc, damage could of happened when the engine was first turned on after the wash (a short), or even corrosion by now..
that is one reason I have NEVER sprayed water in my engine bay without first covering up the sensitive electronics.. And strictly avoid hard water spray even in the electronics area..

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 06:38 PM
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Hi again. Did not get a chance to get the engine code but for sure tomorrow, i will let you know by the end of the day but i had an hour to check as mention by one of you, the spark plugs and coil. They were all fine, not wet whatsoever and as far as water puddling around in the engine bay... it was over 30c (90f) for the last two weeks over here since i washed the engine and everything is dry as a bone not to mention that my Sky is all black so hot as hell !!!

i also check to make sure all the connectors i could see were all pushed in properly but can't wait to get the code tomorrow since the last time it happened, i had the tech. clear all the codes from the ecu.

There was 4 codes registered but we did not know how long they happened and in what order so we cleared them since we all thought the engine wash was the culparate.

But i noted the codes anyway here they were in that order:

P2135
P0700
P1516
P2544

We will see if tomorrow on of those code comes back and pin point the problem.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 09:59 PM
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P2135 - Throttle body position sensor circuit
P0700 - Transmission control malfunction
P1516 - Engine power reduced
P2544 -Torque Management Request Input Signal A

I would clean up the maf (because its cheap) and see if it comes back. I am guessing you may have a bad throttle body control module. That could be the cause of all of these consequent codes.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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i will try cleaning the maf (when i find where it is!!! lol) and i also think its got something to do with throttle sensor or something in that area since it happens only when i gun it (wot)
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 10:59 PM
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i will try cleaning the maf (when i find where it is!!! lol) and i also think its got something to do with throttle sensor or something in that area since it happens only when i gun it (wot)

It would not hurt to use the contact cleaner on the throttle blade as well... plus verify all the connections are solid and maybe even use some dielectric grease on the connections
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 01:13 PM
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It would be interesting if it doesn't return...
Since it then become a "false" 'limp mode' for our NA's..

Esp if he can't reproduce it..

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 07:52 PM
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i will try cleaning the maf (when i find where it is!!! lol) and i also think its got something to do with throttle sensor or something in that area since it happens only when i gun it (wot)
Assuming the NA is configured like the RL, the MAF should be sticking in the side of your plastic air intake tube between your airbox and throttle body.
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