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Old 01-24-2011, 10:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Sadface. Havnt picked one up yet
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:28 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Bumpity... Going to attempt this tomorrow morning as the air pockets are getting more frequent in my car. A/C is horrendous at idle too =/
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:24 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Hello guys, I have a question about check valve. Next week I will change my SKY`s coolant. I ordered check valve already, Last week I got this one.
But I did not know this method needs 2 check valves. I have only one check valve.
Do you consider that it is better to resign working only by one valve?
Isn't there any person who worked by one valve?
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:44 PM   #19 (permalink)
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You need two, no if's or but's.
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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They work well. Sterling Chevy put them in for me at the end of my warranty. Temps rarely go above 199 to 201 no matter how hot it is outside. I am coming up on the recommended 5 year antifreeze change and will put in the Werks radiator I got at the Canton silent auction (thanks Werks!). That should keep the temps even lower.
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I got the valves installed but idle still overheats. My radiator fan won't kick on, even when I turn the A/C on. I am planning on picking up a multimeter to test the voltage on the 60A fuse that is the engine fan (#1 Upper BCM) to see if that fuse is still working right.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:44 AM   #22 (permalink)
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resistance.
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Old 08-03-2012, 05:54 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Whats Up All

I ordered the 2 checks but was thinking could you just use one downstream of the tee that ties the top of the radiator, top of the engine into the anti freeze tank. The only harm I can think of is that if it ever had to discharge into the tank it may cause a restriction.

Also working with a COLD SYSTEM to get the air out I took the return hose off of the tank. Filled the tank over recommended maybe 3/4. I then wiped the cap surface on the tank to get clean as u can. Put return hose into container could be a cup or whatever. With one hand covered overflow hose. With the other hand covered hole on tank from removing return hose. I then put my mouth on that thing and blew circulating liquid until it came out in a steady stream no air. Hey I put my mouth on worse :-) At the time I did park the car in a way that but the return tank as being the highest point.

Not telling anyone or recommending to do this just sharing how I did it. There are dangers doing this that I am not responsible for if you do attempt it.

Good Luck All

Last edited by warpig; 08-03-2012 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 08-03-2012, 05:54 PM   #24 (permalink)
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resistance.
Is futile!
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:11 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Guys my temps never go over 95-96 degrees celcius (190-192) so should i install those or are they installed in 2009 models ?
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:32 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Guys my temps never go over 95-96 degrees celcius (190-192) so should i install those or are they installed in 2009 models ?
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:57 PM   #27 (permalink)
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"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
Agreed. 190-192 is good. Mine hardly ever sees below 199 unless its just warming up lol.
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:04 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Yes, my 09 Redline overheated to over 220* f, setting off the overheat alarm. I shut it down for a half hour started it again, it was fine, so i drove straight to the dealer, who replaced both valves... Very similar to a bad thermostat, symptom wise..
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:18 PM   #29 (permalink)
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i installed these today, they solve the problem of air bleeding back into the engine from the reservoir which creates a problem keeping the engine cool. they also create a direction for pressure to escape the overflow system that only leads back into the engine (or the overflow valve at the reservoir, however unlikely.)

without the check valves, when pressurized, air is forced down into the crankcase via the overflow tube and also into the radiator via the radiator overflow tube (the two locations where the valves are to be installed.)

with the check valves, when pressurized, coolant is forced into the cooling system instead. without the check valves, this process relies in part on gravity to redistribute coolant.

in either case, air typically collects and finds its way to the top of the crank case or radiator, and these two lines bring that air back into the reservoir.

the problem with this repair is you risk allowing air into the system, but I'll stress that both of these points are overflow locations, and that the amount of air introduced in almost negligible.

1. getting the air out of the crankcase is a matter of overflowing the engine, there are several videos and forums with posts on doing this.
2. getting the air our of the radiator is the same process, you just don't see the overflow occurring.

i waited to do this until I had to drain the cooling system for other cooling-related repairs. the best means of removing air is to create a vacuum to draw fluid from the overflow port and to continue filling the reservoir as coolant is siphoned through the engine. the best way to full drain the engine (and you do NOT have to do this for this repair) is to ensure the system is fully closed (all caps and tubes attached.) then uncork the radiator draincock on the passenger side. this siphons probably 80% of the coolant from the system. the remainder gets stuck in a few tubes, the pump assembly, etc.

if you're not completely draining the coolant (again, you don't have to in order to install these check valves) then you only need to "burp" the system: (1) remove the coolant level sensor from the bottom of the reservoir (2) raise the reservoir 8-12" above its current position with all hoses attached (3) fill the reservoir 50% (to the "cold fill line") and wait for gravity to pull coolant down into the system (4) clean up the mess.

i put a tube on the overflow nipple to control where excess fluid went (to a bottle), the only problem with this is the system does not overflow as described above (raising the reservoir was not sufficient.) so I pressurized the system to push coolant throughout the engine. since I did a full drain of the system I would up doing a coolant flush (two full containers of coolant) in order to get "almost all air out." There was a lot of air in the system for me (because of the full engine drain) well into the second cycle of coolant. if like me you've completely drained the block you will have more air in the system than the service bulletin expects you to have. i don't know what the proper refill instructions are for a completely drained block (there is no tool like the "engine preluber" that I see in the service manual, and relying on gravity alone leaves the engine short maybe a 0.5-1 liter of coolant (instead it's filled with air.)

i'm expecting I'll need to cycle the engine and "burp" the reservoir for a couple days before she's roadworthy, picking up a third container of dexcool 50/50 as I expect the coolant level to drop as air moves up.

as an aside, I do NOT suggest pressurizing the reservoir without the check valves installed, you will force air into the crankcase and radiator if you do. I also do not suggest more than 5psi of pressure. it's slow moving, but some valves in the engine bay can be easily damage with a "shock blast" as low as 15-20psi. i would hate for people to damage their system because of something someone (like me) said on the internet. that said, using a clean tube with a mcguyver'd "filter and o-ring" attachment I was able to pressurized the reservoir to refill the block. if you try this, don't use a dirty tube that's going to put crap all inside your system (and cause things like these check valves to clog.)

Last edited by wilson0x4d; 08-21-2016 at 06:36 PM. Reason: ring.. ring.. ring.. ring.. ring.. ring.. ring.. banana phone
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