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Old 08-17-2016, 02:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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$5000 for a crate engine. 19329341 LTG 2.0L 122 CID Chevy Crate Engine
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Old 08-17-2016, 03:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes, you are right. If you cannot see with your eyes the metal that is cracked, the dye process wont find it.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The penetrant test that Blue described will find cracks in any surface that you can clean thoroughly, which for a head is basicly the machined face. You have to be able to clean the surface very thoroughly before spraying the dye, and then you have to be able to wipe all of the dye from the surface, so it really has to be smooth. I have never done a successful test on a non-machined surface.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'd assume if you can see it you really can't clean it either. LOL

I've heard that there is a way to test the water passages using some kind of pressure test. I've never seen it done, never had it done, have no clue how it's done, but I assume you need to find a shop that works with engine heads to get more information on how this may be done and cost. You basically need to pressurize the water jackets and see if they hold pressure is my understanding of it.

Still, would be worthwhile to do with the head off the engine to replace the head gasket anyway.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:49 PM   #20 (permalink)
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You can do a coolant system leak-down test using a pump with a pressure gauge along with a radiator pressure cap adapter. I have a vacuum/pressure test kit that will do it. Basically you swap the pressure cap for the adapter, pump the system up to operating pressure with the hand pump or a carefully regulated air line, and let it sit. If the pressure drops, there is a leak somewhere. If the pressure holds there either are no leaks, or the leak is one that only opens up when things get hot.

We tested a bare head once by drilling a pressure port through a machined steel surface plate and clamping the head to the plate with a gasket, then filling it with water and pressurizing it.
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Old 08-17-2016, 05:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The penetrant test that Blue described will find cracks in any surface that you can clean thoroughly, which for a head is basicly the machined face. You have to be able to clean the surface very thoroughly before spraying the dye, and then you have to be able to wipe all of the dye from the surface, so it really has to be smooth. I have never done a successful test on a non-machined surface.
I have done it on Aircraft cylinders and found a crck between the valve stems that was not on machined surface. It just requires that you flush the cleaner over the surface to remove excess dye. Even flushing it will not remove the dye in a crack that goes all the way thru,
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Old 08-17-2016, 06:25 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Update:
Coolant was drained, Intake Manifold, Fuel Rail, Injectors, Catalytic converter and Turbo (almost) are out.

Today if I have time I am going to try to remove the head (cross fingers)
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:34 PM   #23 (permalink)
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ir id rezsllu jzrf to tupr dith vfric fugrc

(Translation: It is really hard to type with crossed fingers...)

Good luck and keep us informed of what you find out.
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Old 08-17-2016, 08:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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BlueRL:
Quote:
It just requires that you flush the cleaner over the surface to remove excess dye. Even flushing it will not remove the dye in a crack that goes all the way thru,
Odd. My Magnaflux brand dye penetrant kit instructions state specifically to not flush the dye with cleaner, but only to wipe it off with a cleaner-wetted cloth. Should I have to use it again I'll try your method to see how it does. With any luck I'll never know.
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:23 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
BlueRL:
Odd. My Magnaflux brand dye penetrant kit instructions state specifically to not flush the dye with cleaner, but only to wipe it off with a cleaner-wetted cloth. Should I have to use it again I'll try your method to see how it does. With any luck I'll never know.
It might be that we tried that even if the instructions didnt tell us to. We were testing a cylinder that was showing a slow leak. On early aircraft the cylinder and head are cast as one piece. The crack couldnt be seen from the outside and it was impractical to wipe it on the inside.
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Old 08-20-2016, 05:55 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Update:
The Head gasket, head, block looked fine, no obvious cracks; so far the only thing that it's broken is the oil cooler (has a little hole in one of the coolant lines), but I need to do further testing in order to determine if its internally damage
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