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Old 01-11-2013, 01:38 PM   #76 (permalink)
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The other common misconception is in regard to rear facing scoops/vents or louvers.

Many people like the looks of having them fairly far back on the hood. In fact, they often get them so far back because they like the appearance, that they get into the high pressure region in front of the windshield where the air 'balls up' in front of the glass. The result is that their 'exit' vents actually draw air in, not out of the engine compartment.

The most effective place to put vents to exhaust engine compartment air is directly behind the radiator level but most people consider that far too forward a location to please them aesthetically.

I race an MGA roadster (that's almost the same as a convertible, except that it came with removable side screens rather than roll up windows - bet you don't know the last car that came with side screens....trivia challenge!).

I removed the windscreen completely and ran with a 'cheater' racing screen in front of the driver maybe 2" high. With the removal of the windshield, the high pressure area disappeared. We weren't allowed to add vents in the class I was running in, so I simply arranged to have hood pins at the back of the hood that were much longer than were normally required. When I went through tech, the hood just sat there innocently. When I was out on the track, at speed, the rear of the bonnet would float up on the pins due to the pressure build up underneath and would act a a rear facing exhaust vent that was quite effective in reducing engine bay temperatures.
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:21 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Actually it works great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova-Exarch View Post
The idea that opening vents will push hot air places that is isn't supposed to be kinda made me laugh a little.

So... in that line of thought...

What stops the ECU killing hot as he11 air from reacing those components when you are stuck in stop and go traffic in the 110-120 degree weather?

They had to have tested for these conditions and they had to have designed the parts acordingly on a car that is primarily a warm weather car. (this has been covered numerous times already).

Funnny how all the nay sayers have dropped off now that the road test data is up.

Ok... ok... I know... enough :

-=-

I did have another idea to help the venting process...

Take an idea from extreme computer builders/modifiers...

Those hood vents are long enough for four of these:


Ok, so maybe it wouldn't be worth all that much effort for 99% of the people out there.

It might be worth it to someone having overheating issues in 110-120 degree heat, stuck in traffic, etc...

Or maaaaaybe help with those CAI's that end up sucking in hot air until the car can get moving. At least with the fans sucking out the hottest (they're up top and heat rises sooo...) air in the engine bay you might be able to keep the area around the CAI intake at or near ambient?

Again, not all that much of a gain from that so it would be more of a geek/tinkerer factor.

Maybe those that like to drag could gain a tenth off that?
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I have over 60,000 miles on it now with the open vents. Heat kills electronic as we all know. If you read this complete post you will see I have taken several temp readings all around the ECU and the battery. With air moving out of the side vents it actually runs way cooler then not having them open. I know what the Saturn Engineers say about the ECU getting over heated if they were open but that is just not true. It works so good a couple years ago I opened up mine even farther..
(One more thing. If you read my signature you will see I have a highly modified N/A. On a turbo you may need to shroud the turbo a bit to direct the heat away from the battery but probably not. Just a thought.
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:25 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyD View Post
I have over 60,000 miles on it now with the open vents. Heat kills electronic as we all know. If you read this complete post you will see I have taken several temp readings all around the ECU and the battery. With air moving out of the side vents it actually runs way cooler then not having them open. I know what the Saturn Engineers say about the ECU getting over heated if they were open but that is just not true. It works so good a couple years ago I opened up mine even farther..
(One more thing. If you read my signature you will see I have a highly modified N/A. On a turbo you may need to shroud the turbo a bit to direct the heat away from the battery but probably not. Just a thought.
I like the look--very simple and clean. Thanks for the empirical data!
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:42 PM   #79 (permalink)
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id be interested in the direction of heat travel as well.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:35 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyD View Post
I have over 60,000 miles on it now with the open vents. Heat kills electronic as we all know. If you read this complete post you will see I have taken several temp readings all around the ECU and the battery. With air moving out of the side vents it actually runs way cooler then not having them open. I know what the Saturn Engineers say about the ECU getting over heated if they were open but that is just not true. It works so good a couple years ago I opened up mine even farther..
(One more thing. If you read my signature you will see I have a highly modified N/A. On a turbo you may need to shroud the turbo a bit to direct the heat away from the battery but probably not. Just a thought.
Cool! I do like the look of those and I'm glad you've had good results.

I just couldn't a change in air flow being that big a deal or more of our cali friends (IE insane traffic jams on 100+F days) would have their ECU's melting.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:32 PM   #81 (permalink)
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LOL. people were worried about what a SUSPENSION engineer said.

trapped hot air is hotter than hot air that vents...thats common sense...

but wait i forgot, engineers know EVERYTHING.

I love how the OP actually did his own experiments vs paper thoughts
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:38 PM   #82 (permalink)
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LOL. people were worried about what a SUSPENSION engineer said.

trapped hot air is hotter than hot air that vents...thats common sense...

but wait i forgot, engineers know EVERYTHING.

I love how the OP actually did his own experiments vs paper thoughts
Thank you.
Yes opening them up works great. I now have 110,000 miles on my car with no issues.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:50 PM   #83 (permalink)
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being a tech by trade, our biggests pet peeve is engineers who think they know EVERYTHING. i believe this gentleman should have stuck with suspension.

think about how hot a black top road gets in the middle of a summer day.

if that crap doesnt melt your tires, or blow up a battery sitting on it, theres no way a motor can produce enough heat (unless its on fire) to kill a battery or fry an ecu that is insulated and designed to be in a high heat area.

i plan on cutting out my fenders sooner or later, as well as the hood vents.

love the way it looks!

and sorry for resurrecting a dead thread LOL
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:42 PM   #84 (permalink)
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I'd love to see the results of a tuft test (so called as it was usually done by taping some short lengths of yarn around a vent and then driving while an observer in another car beside you looked to see which way the air was going).
Ding Ding! I would love to see this as well. It will give real world results instead of computer wind tunnel simulation picture thats floating around.

If and when norm comes out with the sky hardtop, Ill be doing this as a before and after. Strictly focusing on the rear end but will do the rest of the car as well.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:22 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Hello this thread needs a bump
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:04 AM   #86 (permalink)
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I have considered this mod. Have read this thread before. I like the look. Getting heat out of the engine bay is a good thing, in whatever part of the country you live in. It's your car, and if data provided by you the owner says that the engine bay is cooler, then heat is removed, weather it be 120 in shade in stop and go, or out on the track for few hot sessions. How many other high priced cars, stock or race versions that have vents that work? Viper, Vette, Lambo, Nascar, F1, take your pick. If you wanted to go step farther, IMO you could as a "part replacement panel", have operational vents, controlled flaps, by electric/vac/manual to adjust the flow. Some sort of actuator, power window antenna modified, 1/4 open, 1/2 open, full open depending on your driving enviroment. I am considering alittle of both. Part vent, part turn signal. Some air flow, some safety. Two mods in one. Adding a screen/mesh stainless and or paint the panel the color of your choice. The top hood vents are in this same train of thought, letting heat out of the engine bay. Water getting in, is the problem. I did that mod on a 1974 Formula Firebird. Ram air scoops. Lets in cooler air to engine bay. Small screen for the bugs & trash, and a thin piece of rubber with slits cut into it for water screen. Worked good. Will it hurt or help? I am leaning towards the help side. If you do this mod, and don't like it, or have problems, battery, ecu, or other, than close them back off. Cutting out the plastic is not that big of a deal. Finishing it off to look factory installed is how you the owner judge what the factory "should" have done. Mine is this, Open vent, with controlable flap, with turn signal. That's how I would have done it. I'm not Saturn though, they had a different idea for it back when they where trying to market the SKY. With a N/A model there is less heat in the engine bay. NO Turbo heat. For us RL owners lot more heat. For me, cooler is better. Inside a/c better be ice cold on hot day. Same for my beer. Same thing in the engine bay. 10-15 degree difference could save a turbo a few extra spools. Transmission would or might be cooler too. Extra benefit there. Some owners want to keep their cars all stock. Nothing wrong with that. Once your warranty is up, it won't matter weather is still all stock or modded out to max. You can still fix anything at the dealers, but your going to pay, with no warranty coverage. Some owners are all mods on this model. That's cool too. It's your car. Not the factory, not the dealership's, not the BANK's. Yours, as in do what you want with it. If it breaks, that's your problem too.

Last edited by LAC Sky; 08-20-2013 at 10:13 AM.
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