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Gwyneth V8 build

22K views 62 replies 15 participants last post by  RickyD 
#1 · (Edited)
I have been wanting to do a V8 swap into my Sky. I was getting 312 WHP and 352lb/ft out of the 4cyl LE5 engine with DDMs stage 3 SC setup with some other additions, but it wasn't enough for me.
The engine I bought cost twice as much as I wanted to spend, but I discovered the cost of rebuilding an L33 engine plus intake, cams, heads, etc. could have easily cost an additional $2k+. Definite plus side is I get a "brand new" engine that I really don't have to do anything to and can leave as a NA for the power that I want even though I still want a supercharger. I don't mind the iron block weight penalty. Norm's Viper hood and front side fenders will help offset the 75-100lb weight diff between iron/ alum blocks. I save a little more weight since I have aftermarket seats.
So, I've been doing a lot of reading to try and figure out everything else I need. I also want to use the rear portion of the existing 2.5" exhaust (made from Race Precision (RPi GT exhaust)). Roughly $2500 remaining in a $9k budget build. Here's a list of have/ need.

Have:

- (ad read) "Iron block ls3! Life started out as a 6.0 block (LQ9) bored and balanced at city motor supply with documentation. Assembled with the stock ls3 bottom end with new bearings and rings. To finish off the bottom end motor was buttoned up with a moroso oil pan for clearance in just about in vehicle with remote oil filter fittings lines and mount, -10AN. Cylinder heads are stock gm 821 heads milled by kim barr racing to a mirror finish. Camshaft is lg motorsports g6x3 cam! Timing was upgraded with a double roller timing chain from comp cams, and a ported texas speed ls6 oil pump. The heads are kept on with arp head bolts. Comp cams double springs, titanium retainers, locks, and seals are installed on the heads to keep the valve train in check. BTR hardened pushrods connect to trunion upgraded stock ls3 rockers. Now for the intake. The intake is stock ls3 upgraded with holley ls fuel rails with ls9 injectors installed. To finish off and close up the motor is a fast 90mm throttle body. As for accessories a starter is installed and a slp 25% underdrive pulley. Think that about covers it. I had this motor built and assembled for a project that is now going another route, LS7! I used quality components ones any car enthusiast would appreciate. I also have a modified harness that is about 80% complete, needs to be lengthened, but is routed and run tight and give a flush finish."
- TR6060 transmission (pulled from a 2010 Camaro with only 20k miles)

Need:

-short throw shifter
-rear differential mount
-drive shaft
-radiator w/ fan(s) (Griffin?)
-air intake w/ filter
-misc exhaust pieces
-hoses
-tune


Advice/ tips are welcome. Missing anything?
 

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#2 ·
-HPFNeed:

-58x reluctor wheel?
-front acc. drive (CTS-V)
-engine mounts
-short throw shifter
-transmission mounts
-drive shaft
-radiator w/ fan(s) (Griffin?)
-water pump (Meziere electric water pump?/ I really do want this!)
-air intake w/ filter
-exhaust manifolds
-misc exhaust pieces
-HPFP?
-hoses
-tune

Advice/ tips are welcome. Missing anything?
There is no HPFP on the LS motors. The FP in the tank puts out 55-60 psi, which is all that is needed.

Yogi
 
#8 ·
Silly question, but wouldn't your power goals have been met more cheaply using a plug in tuned LNF with a bigger turbo? Or did you just lust after a V8 and damn the cost?
 
#10 ·
I didn't have an LNF. I had the LE5. The cost of building the LE5 to get to 450-500hp was estimated to be $5 - 6k. So, I started pricing out the cost of a V8. My estimates have my V8 swap to cost $7 - 10k. It was worth it to me to have a more reliable powerplant (for an extra $4k at most) that isn't pushed to its limit unlike what the LE5 would have to.
 
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#13 ·
I wish. It's always the small stuff that takes the longest. The oil dipstick and tube are bent/ broken. I need to get another one. Besides that there are a few cosmetic damages that happened during shipment. Nothing big.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Purchased these this morning. Had to buy new gauges because the V8 has a 24x reluctor wheel. Costly set of gauges from Speedhut, but I liked them the most out of all the aftermarket gauges I looked at. I originally thought about buying Glowshift gauges because they were inexpensive, but deemed them too "ricey." New gauges should ship in 3 - 4 weeks. We'll see how good they look in person.
I'll probably end up having to fabricate a gauge surround. I intend to have the speedo on the left, tach centered in the middle, and the quad (volt, water, fuel, oil press.) gauge on the right.
 

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#17 · (Edited)
V8 Engine Harness

What a mess! I did a lot of reading to try and figure out how to rework the harness. There are lots of great resources (http://lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm) on the internet to help do it if you're willing to dedicate the time. Problem is, the harness that came with my engine had wires that were too short, broken connectors, missing connectors, etc. In other words, it was going to be a headache :banghead::willy:. I opted to send the harness and PCM off to get reworked/ flashed:cheers:. It will be a stand alone harness when it returns with new connectors, tape, and loom only requiring me to connect 3 wires or so. I'm not sure if there will be wiring provisions made for me to connect the aftermarket gauges or if I will have to tap those in later. However, it is money well spent, IMO. The PCM will be flashed with the following specs:

- Make, Model, year and engine of donor - 2002 HD 1500 truck (LQ9 block)/ PCM 09354896 from 99-00 model years
- Make, Model, Year of the transplant - 2007 Saturn Sky
- Single or Dual electric fans? - Dual
- Fan 1 Temperature On and Off Changed - on @ 210/ off @ 190
- Fan 2 Temperature On and Off Changed - on @ 210/ off @ 190
- Delete VATS - yes
- Change Vin Number - yes
- Change Axle Ratio - 3.91
- Change Tire Size - rear 285/30/20 - front 265/35/19
- Change Top MPH - 200
- Remove A/C - no
- Manual 6 speed or Automatic - manual 6 spd
- which transmission - TR6060
- Change RPM Limit - 7000
- Emissions? - remove emissions
- Drive by wire | Drive by cable - DBW
- Using aftermarket gauges from Speedhut (tachometer, speedometer, and quad gauge (Water Temp, Volts, Oil psi, Fuel Level)
 

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#20 ·
Yes, Perks has them, but my setup is more along with what DDM offers. So, I want to use DDMs eng and trans mounts. The engine harness from either vendor is pricey. I'm getting mine done for a fraction of the cost.
 
#21 ·
Started disassembly. Not that hard so far. Just bag hardware and label everything. Take lots of pictures to help documemt where things go. Biggest thing I learned was removing the intake manifold would have made disconnecting the starter a hell of a lot easier. I figured that out a little too late.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Removed the hood, front bumper, and radiator. Drained the oil and coolant. Disconnected the AC system and the wiring harness. The wiring harness is all coiled up on the passenger side of the car. I tried to disconnect the fuse box, but couldn't figure it out. The engine is just about ready to come out. I think I just need to remove the starter and then remove the bolts that attach the engine to the bellhousing and the bolts/ nuts to the engine mounts. Next I have to try and figure out how the transmission comes out.
 

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#25 ·
Got the engine and transmission out on Saturday. Still need to drop the rear differential in order to get the torque arm out. Also, need to grind off the "hump" (circled in red) on the passenger side of the engine bay to allow room for the AC compressor and weld an 1/8" thk piece of flat steel in its place.
 

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#27 ·
I don't know if you saw John's video on YouTube or not but you can pause it slide by slide and see what he did on the frame/cross members/trans tunnel. From 2:42-4:05 are the best. You can also see how he did his cooling duct work for the radiator further on in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaH8y9Irthk&feature=youtu.be
 
#29 ·
Removed the torque arm by dropping the rear differential. I did not have to remove the left, rear wheel and assy to slide the differential to the left as Roust mentioned he had to do in his 408 iron pig swap. I removed 4 bolts that held the cast piece to the passenger side of the rear differential. The torque arm comes off with it.
 

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#30 ·
Installed the front accessory drive system. I found out that the water pump I bought and installed will not work and neither will the crank pulley that came with the engine. I ordered ones that will be compatible with the CTS-V accessory drive kit. I'll install those later when they arrive. I had to drill and tap the upper mounting hole for the alternator bracket. I held the bracket in place used a transfer punch to make a mark on the block. I then drilled it stepping up gradually in bit sizes until I got to the correct size to tap the hole for 10MM x 1.5. Drill and tap slowly/ carefully and use tapping fluid!!! I had to cut about 3/8" off of the mounting bolt I used in the hole because it bottomed out otherwise. The bracket will only use the upper and lower mounting hole on the LQ9 block. The alternator and bracket are nice and tight. The one bolt missing won't adversely affect anything.
 

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#31 ·
Progress has been slow

Waiting on pieces/ parts to come in. Replaced the crank pulley and water pump. The engine did not come with a steam vents either. I went with this: C&R Racing 78-10000K1, C&R LS Engine Steam Vent Kit | C&R Racing as it provided a way to pipe the steam back into the radiator hose instead of having to drill and tap a fitting into the water pump itself. You can see the steam hose coiled around the PS fluid reservoir in the second picture that will tee into the upper radiator hose later.
 

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#32 ·
Not sure what happened to the color in the 1st picture, but whatever. Installed the exhaust manifolds (painted them with flat black, high temp ceramic paint) and engine mounts that I got from DDMWorks. Thanks, Dave! I had to purchase exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts/washers separately. It all fit like it was supposed to. I also bought red spark plug socks to dress them up a little.
 

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#33 · (Edited)
You can see the Moroso oil pan and the -10AN remote lines. I bought a remote oil filter adapter: Filter Adapters (PN 4010) and used a K&N HP-3002 Performance Wrench-Off Oil Filter. I'll have to find a suitable location to mount the remote after I get the engine in.
 

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#34 ·
I finally got the ECU and wiring harness back. It IS NOT what I expected. I will end up having to re-do some of it just because it looks like it was haphazardly done. Also, some of the connectors I am unsure of where they go or if they are even correct. One thing I did find out is the LQ9 fuel injector connectors ARE NOT the same as an LS3. I purchased "pigtail" adapters to make them work .
 
#35 ·
I drilled the new mounting holes for the engine mounts in the engine bay of the car. I'm ready to fit the engine in once I buy longer bolts to fit through the engine mounts, shock mounts, engine bay pads, etc. I will probably have to fit the engine a few times in order to clear out interference items like the hard lines for the power steering. I'll try to do the first fit this weekend.
 
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