HAHN issue #2 (more loose and broken bolts...)

[Roadie Rob]

Copied over from the Solstice forum. I'd appreciate any thoughts from the Sky community as well. Thanks, - RR

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=38078

[Valistener]

Originally Posted by Roadie Rob

Copied over from the Solstice forum. I'd appreciate any thoughts from the Sky community as well. Thanks, - RR

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=38078

I really want one of these kits, now I am not so sure. Though I would do my own install and check the bolts from time to time for loosening.

[MidniteBlues]

Whoa, again? At least sounds like no fire this time, TG. My question is, how much did it cost last time to do repairs, after in the first case, there was 'extreme" heat--(fire)? you never really came back and posted in that thread here on the final results-- Looks like this time around, IMO, it is still "serious" damage-- Please keep us informed, on the first episode I thought you were a Sky owner, not a Sol, not that matters any. BUT, we both have the same engine. After reading this post and all the other ones in the Sol forum, the Hahn is looking less & less attractive IMO. That S/C is looking more & more attractive, we'll see as time goes on, looks like HEAT is a BIG factor here with the N/a turbos-- Lets see how well the S/c do on the N/A's, perhaps that might be the way to go for those who want more juice--

[Roadie Rob]

I'm a Sky - I hang out at Sol-land since more of them live around here and I can chat easier.

The last go around...I think it was $50 for a new part from Hahn (rear turbo housing). The shop ate the costs of repair, shipping, and install. There was no heat damage from the exhaust flames per Hahn (they reviwed the unit and gave it an OK). I'm working with Bill now so I'm hoping it will have another favorable outcome.

If not, you might see a Stage II kit on the "for sale" section for real cheap! I have all the OEM parts (injectors, manifold, oil plug, etc...) and may pick up an extra, base 2.4L ECM from SMS or Vector if this thing throws a 3rd curveball at me.

I know the saying..."fool me once, shame on you - fool me twice, shame on me."

But...call me a sucker but I'll give it to a third chance before I go back to being N/A or possibly look at SC.

On a final note - my heat shield has been removed for a few months now so I can look over the nuts easier and give them a minor "tug" to ensure they stay as tight as when it came back to me. I also figure with it off, I should also get more airflow over it for added cooling (or am I mistaken?).

[CJsSky]

Originally Posted by Roadie Rob

I'm a Sky - I hang out at Sol-land since more of them live around here and I can chat easier.

The last go around...I think it was $50 for a new part from Hahn (rear turbo housing). The shop ate the costs of repair, shipping, and install. There was no heat damage from the exhaust flames per Hahn (they reviwed the unit and gave it an OK). I'm working with Bill now so I'm hoping it will have another favorable outcome.

If not, you might see a Stage II kit on the "for sale" section for real cheap! I have all the OEM parts (injectors, manifold, oil plug, etc...) and may pick up an extra, base 2.4L ECM from SMS or Vector if this thing throws a 3rd curveball at me.

I know the saying..."fool me once, shame on you - fool me twice, shame on me."

But...call me a sucker but I'll give it to a third chance before I go back to being N/A or possibly look at SC.

On a final note - my heat shield has been removed for a few months now so I can look over the nuts easier and give them a minor "tug" to ensure they stay as tight as when it came back to me. I also figure with it off, I should also get more airflow over it for added cooling (or am I mistaken?).

If you go the back to stock route. I have a base tune. All you need is a blank ECM and your VIN #. I can put the base tune on it. It would be a little cheaper. The dealers can be fairly proud of their ECM's, even with the stock tune on them.

[Gerry]

Originally Posted by Roadie Rob

...(or am I mistaken?).

Yes, you are. That heat shield keeps the turbine section gasses hot since the energy to drive the turbine is in the heat. And the more energy the exhaust gasses use to heat the turbine housing, the less energy there is to spin the turbine. There is some benefit to not cooking your hood, but its real purpose is to keep the turbine hot.

[Roadie Rob]

Originally Posted by Gerry

Yes, you are. That heat shield keeps the turbine section gasses hot since the energy to drive the turbine is in the heat. And the more energy the exhaust gasses use to heat the turbine housing, the less energy there is to spin the turbine. There is some benefit to not cooking your hood, but its real purpose is to keep the turbine hot.

Good to know. It's just a little more time consuming to take it on / off to even look at the nuts so I left it off for simplicity too.

One of many lessons to be learned in this whole year-long experience so far.

[shabby]

Its just a broken stud, while an annoyance its not the end of the world.
The manifold does no need to be replaced, in this case i would tap it out one size bigger, those a probably 8mm studs, i'd go with some beefier 10mm ones.
Also get some 347 stainless steel studs, i've had good luck with them on my talon. The stock carbon steel ones broke like a twig.

[Roadie Rob]

Originally Posted by shabby

Its just a broken stud, while an annoyance its not the end of the world.
The manifold does no need to be replaced, in this case i would tap it out one size bigger, those a probably 8mm studs, i'd go with some beefier 10mm ones.
Also get some 347 stainless steel studs, i've had good luck with them on my talon. The stock carbon steel ones broke like a twig.

I agree...but to a non-car guy with 36+ payments left, it sure as heck felt like the end of the world to me!".

I posted on Sol Forum and this deserves a posting here too.
*********************************************


Hahn is taking car of me - a tribute to show that some companies still believe CUSTOMER SERVICE is #1!!! (Take note GM...!)

Let me start by saying this. My car was never on fire the first go around in spring. Blue exhaust flames are not "fire" as they extinguish immediately when power is shut off. There is no direct burning material like wood, plastic, etc... - watch any YouTube street racing and you'll see the same blue flames shooting out the back of their tailpipe. My old signature was meant as a joke since most of the local Wisconsin Sol folks tease me frequently, even going so far as to give me a large 3 foot cardboard cutout of a magnet and bucket of old bolts this weekend at the Wis Dells Run for being one of their group leaders.

Hahn took care of me in spring 100%. However, I was nervous about calling in a second favor and jumped the gun in my first post by letting emotion take over where patience was missing (I think we have all been there before).

Not familiar with engines, I felt this was another "end of the car" experience on a car I still owe 3 years payments. MEA CULPA, Bill!! I'm sorry for doing so since now I look like a politcian flip-flopping the issues.

Bill's going to take in the snapped bolt to their supplier and have them review. We're going to work on either driving out the snapped stud or possibly going with a replacement. My local shop is also playing cool and is willing to assist in the whole process (another shout out to a small company FOCUSED on service...not just the bottom line!!).

So where do I stand? I'm still a little nervous but I will be spending some time at the performance shop talking about torque settings and learning more about the car in whole. The more I learn, the more I can be a part of the solution, and the more I can take as my own responsibilty, the better off I will feel in the long-term.

With Hahn standing by their equipment, my confidence in them has quickly returned.

[RPIpower]

We had/are going through an issue right now. We shipped a kit to a customer who installed it on their car and was very happy with the performance. The problem happened 1500 miles after the kit was on...blown turbo. He sent the turbo back to Hahn (had to pay for the removal of the turbo) and Hahn told him that the turbo was blown because they used Royal Purple synthetic oil and that it would be like $1100 to rebuild the turbo and send it back to him. The problem is that NO WHERE in the hahn installation manual does it say not to use any particular type of oil. So, who is at fault. Our customer is out a bunch of money now.

[Gerry]

Originally Posted by RPIpower

...Hahn told him that the turbo was blown because they used Royal Purple synthetic oil ...

And we all know that the oil had nothing to do with the failure. Pretty cheesy way to weasel out of a defect especially if the company wants to stay in business. They must not understand that a business is built upon its reputation.

[RPIpower]

Originally Posted by Gerry

And we all know that the oil had nothing to do with the failure. Pretty cheesy way to weasel out of a defect especially if the company wants to stay in business. They must not understand that a business is built upon its reputation.

Yes, I am VERY unhappy with the whole situation.

[Valistener]

Originally Posted by RPIpower

We had/are going through an issue right now. We shipped a kit to a customer who installed it on their car and was very happy with the performance. The problem happened 1500 miles after the kit was on...blown turbo. He sent the turbo back to Hahn (had to pay for the removal of the turbo) and Hahn told him that the turbo was blown because they used Royal Purple synthetic oil and that it would be like $1100 to rebuild the turbo and send it back to him. The problem is that NO WHERE in the hahn installation manual does it say not to use any particular type of oil. So, who is at fault. Our customer is out a bunch of money now.

How in the world would the oil cause this? Is it any synthetic oil or just Royal Purple?
Sounds pretty thin.

[RPIpower]

Originally Posted by Valistener

How in the world would the oil cause this? Is it any synthetic oil or just Royal Purple?
Sounds pretty thin.

Just got off the phone with the guys we sold the kit to and they said that Hahn told them they are now going to put in their installation instructions, NOT to use that type of oil. It still doesnt change the fact that we lost more money with this than we will make selling two kits.

[Bill1966]

I have never had an issue with the Hahn customer service, a matter of fact they have always bent over backwards to address any issues, self inflicted or otherwise.

If I owned a company that resold another company's product to my customer and they had a problem, I would do what I could to get the problem solved by working with the other company rather than flaming them on some forum. Doesn't sound like this has happened in this case.

Peace

[RPIpower]

Originally Posted by Bill1966

I have never had an issue with the Hahn customer service, a matter of fact they have always bent over backwards to address any issues, self inflicted or otherwise.

If I owned a company that resold another company's product to my customer and they had a problem, I would do what I could to get the problem solved by working with the other company rather than flaming them on some forum. Doesn't sound like this has happened in this case.

Peace

I've never had an issue before. But then again, our rep is no longer with Hahn. We will just have to wait and see what happens with this.

[MidniteBlues]

Now I know from everything I have read that the royal purple oil is definitely not the best, always in the back of the pack sorta speak. On tests after test by third party people, royal purple, castrol oil, (synthetics) and a few others did NOT do to well in many tests, including many in using the dynos to test these oils claims, and then performing oil analysis. For example, here is the latest one I could find where these oils were "hammered", by to name a few, honda forums, tundra forums, dodge forums, and there are more, however I'll let this url speak for me on "how good" royal purple is. Hahn has a point, I knew it, and don't even own a turbo--
Had to remove this 1 url since after I posted it, it redirected me to the wrong place, sorry--

Oh yea, lets not forget the mustang forums--

Finally as an addendum, check this info out--

http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oi...nst_oils.shtml

[Rustyknight]

My first question I would have to ask is, why was Royal Purple oil put in the engine, Royal Purple is not certified for use by GM for any vehicles under warranty?

That being said I almost have to agree with Hahn, the underlying engine is a GM product and if Royal Purple is not good enough to be certified by GM why should Hahn take the heat for somebody putting it in a GM car?

Please note only API approved oil can be used in GM cars without voiding the warranty, and Royal Purple is not API approved.

[MidniteBlues]

Originally Posted by Rustyknight

My first question I would have to ask is, why was Royal Purple oil put in the engine, Royal Purple is not certified for use by GM for any vehicles under warranty?

That being said I almost have to agree with Hahn, the underlying engine is a GM product and if Royal Purple is not good enough to be certified by GM why should Hahn take the heat for somebody putting it in a GM car?

Please note only API approved oil can be used in GM cars without voiding the warranty, and Royal Purple is not API approved.

EXCELLENT catch my man-- I knew I had more info that I wanted to share about this oil, also read today while i was searching that they also do not give the oils weight, IE 5w-30, 10w-30 etc etc, weird eh> amsoil also has many of their oils not api certified which plum confounds me to no end--
Finally I would say this, just because you add a turbo to you 2.4L, does not mean you "ignore' GM oil for that motor, which BTW means, "must meets GM6094M standards AND 5w-30--Which by the way IMO, IS assumed by Hahn you will still follow, taking it another step, I would use GM4718M standard, since that is what comes in the R/L from the factory, At also the 5w-30, all oils must meet the API or have that seal to meet GM's requirement, whats good for the goose should be good for the gander--