Hey all, been awhile since I've been on. I'm having an issue with P0299 code. I have a BNR upgraded turbo and the actuator bar on the wastegate is loose. Meaning, I can move it and it has some play. If I jiggle it, it rattles a bit. Has anyone else heard of this causing problems? I'm betting it does cause I keep throwing the same P0299 and the wastegate nut is almost to the end of the threading and I can't go much further.
Just heard back from Trifecta. The tune is doing what it is supposed to, the turbo wastegate is just not responding. I may have to pull the Turbo and send it back to BNR. The area that is loose is connected to the arm that comes off the Turbo itself, that is what the actuator bar runs through.
I'm running the Tial BOV with Dejon pipes, intercooler, Trifecta tune, and the BNR turbo upgrade. The waste gate is not responding thus far and I was wondering if I could pull it off without removing the turbo. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated. I have had a litany of issues. The engine had to be replaced because of a botched oil change (not done by me) which left my car with no oil. That caused the main seal to basically explode and split in two. I have the car back after giving the dealership $9,000. They really screwed me and the car has not run right since. I am very frustrated and have decided to never let them touch my car again. I need some help and some knowledge. I have searched through the threads and have seen all the different vacuum line configurations. I have tried all of them. I get the P0101 code and was getting the P0299 as well. After inspecting all the t- clamp connections, I discovered that the connection from the turbo to the intercooler was basically not clamped down properly. Along with all of those issues the dealership put my hood on wrong and it is not centered. I am reaching out here because I know many of you have extensive knowledge pertaining to our particular vehicles. I would love to get my sky back out on the road. It's a 2007 with only 41,000 miles on it and has been sitting in the drive way for close to a year now. I need to replace the waste gate as it appears to be the main culprit. It is loose and the bar actually spins when I try to loosen the nuts on the actuator bar. PLEASE HELP!!!!
If you cant find a pair of vice grips and a wrench to adjust the wg rod as mentioned above, you can pretty much rest assured that your car wont ever run again. Just sell it.
I have tried what was mentioned and adjusted the rod, again. The rod itself is loose and turns 360 degrees as I try to tighten or loosen the bolts. I have adjusted it before. I believe the wastegate is broken. I don't understand your statement above regarding whether or not the car will run again? Why would the car never run again if all that is broken is the wastegate and who would buy a car that doesn't run properly for that matter? I also could replace the upgraded turbo with the stock one I have here. I am trying to avoid having to pull the turbo out completely. I'll restate my original question and try to clarify it a bit more. All I wanted to know was if the wastegate could be removed and replaced without the hassle of pulling the turbo out? I have all the tools necessary to remove the turbo along with step by step instructions from DDM Works.
hold the wastegate rod with the vicegrips. and adjust with a wrench. it cannot spin when you have vicegrips on the rod.... or perhaps try posting photos to help us understand the issue at hand.
Inside the turbo there is a WG flapper and the rod. The only thing that actuates it is the actuator bulb outside the turbo... so unless you think the flapper is off the back of the rod, im not sure pulling the turbo will help you.
The rod will spin with both of the lock nuts loose, this is normal.
Like Miller said, just hold the rod with pliers and turn the lock nuts to get the WG set correctly.
Here is the Post I did from a few years ago when I got the official WG reset procedure from a GM Tech:
"The instructions posted to the Techs are:
1. Loosen counter set locking nut and spin out of the way to the right.
2. Back off the left nut until no pressure is felt on the rod from the diaphragm.
3. Now spin the left nut back to the right until you just feel the spring pressure from the diaphragm and stop.
4. Now turn the left nut 2 (or 3, can't remember) more complete revolutions.
5. Lastly, spin counter set locking nut on the right, back towards the adjustment and set tight.
6. Be sure to use lock tight on both nuts. "
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