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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Would yall pay 10k for this car? Im thinking I can get the dealer to drop the price :-p

Last edited by sleepercar428; 02-15-2017 at 04:06 PM.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 07:40 PM
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Always haggle. Also, here is the way you get them to budge on the price.

Walk the car. Every imperfection you see...the open exhaust tips in back, the modified light if it doesn't look attached very well, any scratch or rock chip, the engine if it is still that filthy...you note every one, you touch them, you make a disheartening sound. When you get to the fender, feel along the misaligned edges, check to see if it looks like a big fix (cracks underneath the fender) or a small screw.

Say...NOTHING. Even if they start explaining how they'll fix this or that is minor etc. Don't even make eye contact.

When you test drive, if you hear a strange noise, comment on it. If you feel something off in the steering or suspension, comment on it. If it idles rough, comment on it.

The whole point here is for them to know you noticed every imperfection. When you start talking price, after going through these motions, the dealership may bump more early on since they know you saw EVERYTHING wrong with the car.

The cost is really $11,000...the $10,888 is to make you think, like you did, it's only $10 grand. Start low and work up but budge slowly. If you're good paying $10k for it and you start at $8k, don't make your first bump $9 and then $9.5 and then $10. Take smaller steps and every time you do, behave like it's killing you to even move that little bit. Maybe bump to $8,250 then $8,500 then $8,700 and then $8,800...you want your first bumps to be "larger" (but still not big) and your later bumps to go down in size when compared to the last bump. By shrinking your bumps, you're telling the dealer indirectly that you're close to your max price. If they ask what your max price is, never divulge it. Repeat what you just told them is what you want to pay. (See "staying strong" below)

For haggling, you need to have some data in your head. First, what is the fair price of this car. Look around and see if you can see how much other Skys have sold for in your area. Good news is this car being so modified...especially that boost controller...will cause it's resale to drop below normal market value. You may love the car (but NEVER EVER let the dealer see this...you always want to look aloof...like there are 10 more out there you're considering) but the fact is modified cars are worth less than stock cars unless it's being sold to the "right" buyer. The "right" buyer usually doesn't go to a dealer for a modified car.

Second, are you doing a trade in? If so, know the reasonable value for your trade. Look the same way you would for what the reasonable price is to buy this car.

Third, are you financing? If so, know what you qualify for interest rate wise before you walk in. You don't necessarily have to have a loan pre-approved, but at least get an idea what your credit score entitles you for. 400-500 good luck getting a lone without a cosigner. 600-700 may vary but the interest rate may be up there depending on where in that range you fall. 700+ you use to be able to write whatever the best interest rate the banks offer. Not sure how that is now...low 700s may not be as golden as they once were but you should do your homework here too.

Most dealerships will do the California sale with the four square. One square is the price of the car, the second is the value of your trade, the third is your down payment, and the last is your monthly payment. The entire process is designed to make you focus on monthly payment. This way the dealerships can hide all sorts of other details that get them more money while getting you to forget everything else and just think about how much am I paying a month for this car.

If you do your homework, know your figures, you should go in KNOWING what your monthly payment should be if all your numbers line up. Do your homework, know what this payment number is, and do not go above it. In doing so you can use their tool against them without them knowing it.

I also recommend staying what those in the car business call "strong". They may try the "Well, don't you want to buy this car today?" question to make you bump your price more. Stay strong and answer with "Yes, don't you want to sell it?" Remember THEY need to sell the car, you DON'T have to buy it. Some other examples of staying strong:

Dealer: "You know, $6 a month is just a cup of coffee, you can afford not to go get coffee one day a month right?"
Customer: "I don't drink coffee."

D: "Look how much we've come down, certainly you can come up some more."
C: "Yes you have, but you're still not where I want to be numbers wise. Certainly you can come down more if you want to sell this car."

D: "I got a ton of people looking at this car."
C: "Well none of them are sitting here trying to buy it."

D: "What do you want to pay for the car?"
C: "$8,000"
D: "Up to...?" (This is them trying to bump you already.)
C: "$8,000"

D: "What do you want to put down for the car?"
C: "$1,000"
D: "Up to...?"
C: "$1,000"

D: "What do you want your monthly payment to be?"
C: "$159/month"
D: "Up to...?"
C: "$159/month"

Alternatively:

D: "What do you want your monthly payment to be?"
C: "If I pay $V for the car, you give me $W for my trade, with $X amount down and with Y% interest over Z months it will be what it will be."

(Note on this last one, NEVER include the monthly payment amount in your answer as you may slip and tell them the payment you're willing to bump to and all the variable figures...V,W,X,Y, and Z should be reiterations of the numbers you gave them already in this round of negotiations.)

BTW, I use to sell cars for a living...very shortly...I wanted my soul back before it got all tore up. LOL

So your question is would I pay $10k for this car? Maybe. The boost controller scares me. The rear valance/exhaust/reverse light may be a bit hokey. The Fender I would definitely check out. Depending on what I find in those areas...Maybe. I think RLs with that kind of mileage are going in the $8-$11 range so it's about where it should be...but I don't know how the fact you're on the islands affects resale. not like getting a car shipped from the states is going to be cheaper.

The question becomes how bad do you want it, how many are for sale there now, and how much work may be required to make this car reliable depending on what modifications were done and how the car was taken care of. Buying a modified car is a crap shoot if you don't know the owner who did the modifications.


V.A.L. (#1108)
2007 2.4 Base
MagnaFlow dual outlet, quad tip exhaust test car
**Sold**

Max (#1547)
2007 TURBO 2.4
Too much to list here. See my Garage for details.

Last edited by Robotech; 02-15-2017 at 07:52 PM.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:42 AM
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After reading Robo fine example of haggling the price down, there are several questions about the car I would ask first.

From the ad, it says it has had 4 owners. 67k plus and has been modified. Complete color change, it certainly is different, but why? What did the color change cover up? No accidents reported, so that's good.

It's a used car so finding every little thing that is wrong with it, is to be expected. I'm sure the dealership has figured that in to their sale price. IF they want to sell it, they will work with you, if you show interest in how far they can work to get you into it. You don't have to buy it, if anything red flags your opinion one way or another.

Not that many Kappa's in the Islands. Yeah they are unique, limited production, niche market cars, but its your money were talking about, A one owner car, not modified, stock with less miles, might be more expensive in the long run up front in cost, but will it be less trouble than a 4 owner car that has been modified? Hard to say but it IS on the dealer lot for a reason, maybe not just a trade in for a new model by the previous owner?

As for me, the price is what it is. IF you can haggle it down, a plus for you. How bad do you want it? Yup I had that same feeling before, we all have at some point. Their cost/financing to you, is always the concern here, what have I gotten for my money? How much will it cost me down the road, when I find out the water pump took a crap 1200 miles in? The fender could be cracked, maybe another grand to fix those? Problems from the previous owners modifications, that will require you the new owner to seek help elsewhere other than the dealer to fix said problems? No one can fore see those kind of issues, when buying a used car, comes with the territory I guess.


Anyone else seen an orange one? 9K-13k for a good one is about right, higher if it is in great shape with lower miles for a RL. It's orange does that mean,.. it automatically suppose to be 'lifted"? 36" mudders underneath, light bars everywhere, with chrome push bars, and a winch? Unless there are other Kappa's out there for you look at, test drive, to gauge how well this model stacks up against them, I would check them out too, before I purchase this one, just my opinion.

LAC

Last edited by LAC Sky; 02-16-2017 at 06:49 AM.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:23 PM
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Egads, what a dirty engine bay...

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz View Post
Egads, what a dirty engine bay...
I know, right? It needs a good steam cleaning and then a going over with some tire dressing.


V.A.L. (#1108)
2007 2.4 Base
MagnaFlow dual outlet, quad tip exhaust test car
**Sold**

Max (#1547)
2007 TURBO 2.4
Too much to list here. See my Garage for details.
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:59 PM
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What's up with the underside hood blanket being cut away? I imagine it was cut away to clear that non-stock air filter. The more I look at those pictures the more leery I get about this car. I sure would want to see a CarFax before I parted with any cash. Check the car for other non-stock aberations. That rear fascia also worries me a bit.



.

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2006 Solstice NA #000741
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveOC View Post
What's up with the underside hood blanket being cut away? I imagine it was cut away to clear that non-stock air filter. The more I look at those pictures the more leery I get about this car. I sure would want to see a CarFax before I parted with any cash. Check the car for other non-stock aberations. That rear fascia also worries me a bit.



.
Missed the blanket but wondered about that air filter hitting the hood. You probably are exactly right on that, they cut it to clear the filter.

I would be visually inspecting that car very closely and definitely going in with a car fax.


V.A.L. (#1108)
2007 2.4 Base
MagnaFlow dual outlet, quad tip exhaust test car
**Sold**

Max (#1547)
2007 TURBO 2.4
Too much to list here. See my Garage for details.
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:44 AM
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Well, I noticed the color is absolutely correct......Go Longhorns......

The color is worth $2000

Jim Isbell....2008 Sky Redline

"I would rather die on my feet than live on my knees" Gen Emiliano Zapata
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 01:50 PM
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You know, I don't know if you've seen this thread @sleapercar428:

Saturn and Sky Sales numbers by State

But if that is a car that wasn't imported to HI by a previous owner, it's only one of 25 2007 Redlines that were originally sold in the Islands...and only one of possibly 42 Redline Manual trans.

So even with the issues it has, not like you're going to find a whole bunch more over there. Only 250 Kappas (Skys and Solstices of all years and all types) were sold in HI.


V.A.L. (#1108)
2007 2.4 Base
MagnaFlow dual outlet, quad tip exhaust test car
**Sold**

Max (#1547)
2007 TURBO 2.4
Too much to list here. See my Garage for details.

Last edited by Robotech; 02-17-2017 at 01:52 PM.
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