Always haggle. Also, here is the way you get them to budge on the price.
Walk the car. Every imperfection you see...the open exhaust tips in back, the modified light if it doesn't look attached very well, any scratch or rock chip, the engine if it is still that filthy...you note every one, you touch them, you make a disheartening sound. When you get to the fender, feel along the misaligned edges, check to see if it looks like a big fix (cracks underneath the fender) or a small screw.
Say...NOTHING. Even if they start explaining how they'll fix this or that is minor etc. Don't even make eye contact.
When you test drive, if you hear a strange noise, comment on it. If you feel something off in the steering or suspension, comment on it. If it idles rough, comment on it.
The whole point here is for them to know you noticed every imperfection. When you start talking price, after going through these motions, the dealership may bump more early on since they know you saw EVERYTHING wrong with the car.
The cost is really $11,000...the $10,888 is to make you think, like you did, it's only $10 grand. Start low and work up but budge slowly. If you're good paying $10k for it and you start at $8k, don't make your first bump $9 and then $9.5 and then $10. Take smaller steps and every time you do, behave like it's killing you to even move that little bit. Maybe bump to $8,250 then $8,500 then $8,700 and then $8,800...you want your first bumps to be "larger" (but still not big) and your later bumps to go down in size when compared to the last bump. By shrinking your bumps, you're telling the dealer indirectly that you're close to your max price. If they ask what your max price is, never divulge it. Repeat what you just told them is what you want to pay. (See "staying strong" below)
For haggling, you need to have some data in your head. First, what is the fair price of this car. Look around and see if you can see how much other Skys have sold for in your area. Good news is this car being so modified...especially that boost controller...will cause it's resale to drop below normal market value. You may love the car (but NEVER EVER let the dealer see this...you always want to look aloof...like there are 10 more out there you're considering) but the fact is modified cars are worth less than stock cars unless it's being sold to the "right" buyer. The "right" buyer usually doesn't go to a dealer for a modified car.
Second, are you doing a trade in? If so, know the reasonable value for your trade. Look the same way you would for what the reasonable price is to buy this car.
Third, are you financing? If so, know what you qualify for interest rate wise before you walk in. You don't necessarily have to have a loan pre-approved, but at least get an idea what your credit score entitles you for. 400-500 good luck getting a lone without a cosigner. 600-700 may vary but the interest rate may be up there depending on where in that range you fall. 700+ you use to be able to write whatever the best interest rate the banks offer. Not sure how that is now...low 700s may not be as golden as they once were but you should do your homework here too.
Most dealerships will do the California sale with the four square. One square is the price of the car, the second is the value of your trade, the third is your down payment, and the last is your monthly payment. The entire process is designed to make you focus on monthly payment. This way the dealerships can hide all sorts of other details that get them more money while getting you to forget everything else and just think about how much am I paying a month for this car.
If you do your homework, know your figures, you should go in KNOWING what your monthly payment should be if all your numbers line up. Do your homework, know what this payment number is, and do not go above it. In doing so you can use their tool against them without them knowing it.
I also recommend staying what those in the car business call "strong". They may try the "Well, don't you want to buy this car today?" question to make you bump your price more. Stay strong and answer with "Yes, don't you want to sell it?" Remember THEY need to sell the car, you DON'T have to buy it. Some other examples of staying strong:
Dealer: "You know, $6 a month is just a cup of coffee, you can afford not to go get coffee one day a month right?"
Customer: "I don't drink coffee."
D: "Look how much we've come down, certainly you can come up some more."
C: "Yes you have, but you're still not where I want to be numbers wise. Certainly you can come down more if you want to sell this car."
D: "I got a ton of people looking at this car."
C: "Well none of them are sitting here trying to buy it."
D: "What do you want to pay for the car?"
D: "Up to...?" (This is them trying to bump you already.)
D: "What do you want to put down for the car?"
D: "Up to...?"
D: "What do you want your monthly payment to be?"
D: "Up to...?"
D: "What do you want your monthly payment to be?"
C: "If I pay $V for the car, you give me $W for my trade, with $X amount down and with Y% interest over Z months it will be what it will be."
(Note on this last one, NEVER include the monthly payment amount in your answer as you may slip and tell them the payment you're willing to bump to and all the variable figures...V,W,X,Y, and Z should be reiterations of the numbers you gave them already in this round of negotiations.)
BTW, I use to sell cars for a living...very shortly...I wanted my soul back before it got all tore up. LOL
So your question is would I pay $10k for this car? Maybe. The boost controller scares me. The rear valance/exhaust/reverse light may be a bit hokey. The Fender I would definitely check out. Depending on what I find in those areas...Maybe. I think RLs with that kind of mileage are going in the $8-$11 range so it's about where it should be...but I don't know how the fact you're on the islands affects resale. not like getting a car shipped from the states is going to be cheaper.
The question becomes how bad do you want it, how many are for sale there now, and how much work may be required to make this car reliable depending on what modifications were done and how the car was taken care of. Buying a modified car is a crap shoot if you don't know the owner who did the modifications.
Last edited by Robotech; 02-15-2017 at 08:52 PM.