Another Autox

[SkySoldier]

Ran my Red Line in its first autox last Sunday. Had a great time. Finished something like 26th out of 64 raw time. Not bad considering all the beasts that showed up. The only thing I have done to mine is the alignment. It's at the following settings:

Front:
Caster: Left +9.9, Right +9.8 degrees
Camber: Left -2.1, Right -2.1 degrees
Toe: 0

Rear:
Camber: Left -1.7, Right -1.7 degrees
Toe: 0

I learned one thing, and that is that for this game I have got to get some better tires. Also, I may try just a touch of toe out to help with turn-in. Later, perhaps a change to the front bar. Also, I was running with a half full gas tank. Not sure yet if that's good, bad, or indifferent. Any way, it was a blast and more than a few of my soon to be head-to-head competitors are showing a lot of interest in what the Red Line can do.

[snaponbob]

Having autocrossed my RL a BUNCH, I may be able to save you some time (so to speak!). But first, I have to ask how in the world did you get that much caster?!?!?! I have my car set at 2.2 deg neg camber front, 1.7 neg camber rear. When the alignment tech got the front camber beyond 1.8-1.9 deg neg camber on the front my car started loosing caster, and at the 2.2 set point the car wound up with about 6.8 deg neg caster. He and I did some experiments in caster sweep to see how the caster settings would effect the camber at different points. Simply put, no meaningful impact on the camber. This just shows how hand built these cars are in that this caster range is so different car to car.

I don't know your experience level, so if it sounds like I am "talking down" to you, that is NOT the intent.

1) Sway bars. In SCCA stock classes ONLY the front bar can be changed/modified. NOT the rear bar. I have tried the FE2 front bar to see if that would help the (push) the car has. Don't waste your time. It turned the car into a drifter and it cost about 1-2 seconds against where I had been running. I did get better at controlling the oversteer, however!
2) Koni is supposed to have single adjustable shocks in the fall for about $700-$750 for the full set.
3) Tire Rack has 18.5 OZ wheels that are class legal.
4) R-comps are limited to 245/35X18 Kumho V710s (LONG life, very good performance, debatably equal to Hoosiers, 245 is the only size that will properly fit the 18X8" wheels) or Hoosier A6s (probably stickier, much shorter lived, should be "flipped after 25-30 runs, and can successfully fitted to 18X8" wheels all the way up 295/30X18). Concrete EATS Hoosiers. Have a garden sprayer to cool the tires between runs. If Hoosiers get over 120 degrees they start to get "greasy", a bit higher on Kumhos.
5) Your alignment is probably the best compromise between street and auto-x. A 1/16th to 1/8th toe OUT in the front may help turn in, but will kill the tires on the street. I plan on "marking" the left front tie rod and do the adjustment at events and re-set it before I head home.
6) A cat back system will help the power and you'll be able to hear the engine better.
7) With a Redline you are going to have to learn to get good at shifting to third on fast courses as you will be done in second at 57 mph on stock tires and about 53-55 (size dependant) on R-comps. In the RL, if you are on the limiter for more than a "2 count" it may be worth an early up shift and let the torque do its thing. On an N/A it should not be an issue (less power, higher rev limit).
8) I run at about 44/38 on 245 A6s to keep the tires from rolling over. Maybe bit more on concrete, a bit less on blacktop. Use white shoe polish to mark the sidewalls to really see what is happening. Get a good pressure gauge.
9) Stock pads are up to the task. The Hawk pads have a bit more grip, but they have to warm up a bit, and change the "feel" of the brakes.
10) TURN OFF THE ESC before every run.

HTH.

[SkySoldier]

Snapon, thanks for the response. First of all, I've been running 2-3 times a month since 2001. I was running a 2000 Camaro Z/28 in F Stock. However, I am more than willing to learn from anyone who has more information than I do, and with the Red Line, that's just about everyone that has owned one more than 3 weeks . The "talking down" disclaimer is appreciated, but not really needed.

Now, to address your points in reverse order (please feel free to add comments to any of this):

10. That is the one thing I managed to get right !
9. Thanks for the info. and taking your advice to heart (and wallet), I'll be sticking with stock for now. Probably won't change until I have to.
8. The pressure guage I have, but for this event, the tires were so new, all I had to do was look for where the "shiny" rubber ended.
7. It was a fast course and I had to hit 3rd twice . I'm not good at it yet, but I'm learning.
6. I'm considering both the Magnaflow and the Solo Performance Street/Race systems. The latter is quite a bit less expense, and I'm thinking the configuration might lend itself better to the installation of a trailer hitch. I'm thinking of having a hitch custom fabricated out of aluminum.
5. Since my street driving will be quite limited (motorcycle to work year round), I'm thinking 1/8th tow out. That's what I had on the Camaro, although I realize that they are really not that comparable.
4. I'm thinking of going after the local street tire class and run RT-615s until I learn the car a bit better. Then we'll see.
3. I got a second set of stock polished wheels, but thanks for the info. It may come in handy later. Also, I will be running 1/4" spacers all around.
2. I had Konis on my Camaro and will undoubtedly get them for the Red Line. Again, thanks for the info. I didn't know when they might be available.
1. That's excellent info. You've saved me both time and money

Caster: To answer your question, I have absolutely no idea . All I can tell you is that I told the Technician I wanted -2.1 camber on both sides and all the caster he could give me. What I posted is what the printout from the computer shows .

Thanks again for the reply. Greatly appeciated.