Jacking Point Prep

[RedHeaded RedLine]

As we all know, jacking a SKY is easy, but not simple. The previous jack we had worked plenty fine under the Volvo, but would not squeeze under the SKY with its stock wheels. We could get it under the SKY with the OZs and the slightly taller F1 GS-D3s, but we were left high-centered when we tried to let it down on the shorter slicks. We got ourselves a low profile jack from JEGS and thought we were good to go.

The early stages of any wheel swap always involved a lot of unnecessary ups and downs and repositioning for both of us. I wasn’t competent at or confident about placing the jack underneath the car. I’d heard (and read on the board) too many incidents of people’s SKYs being twisted and cracked when jacked incorrectly. Therefore, I’d been having hubby position the jack so that I could baby-jack up slowly so the pad engaged with the jacking point. Then, he’d get up and attend to wheel or tool positioning while I jacked fully upon his “okay”. Then, he’d do one last visual verification and we’d be ready to roll (or not roll because it was up okay).

So, hubby’s thought was to make the jack placement more smooth: install a mark
on each side of the SKY to show where to put the jack, much like NASCAR
does (because those jackmen really know how to throw a car up quickly!).


(Notice the arrow beneath the car number.)


(I hate him, but it’s a great shot. We won’t be called Rainbow Warriors!)

Lining up the center of the jack with this mark and placing another mark on the jack itself to show how
far under the car to insert it would remove the need for all of the up and down, looking under the car, repeatedly.

So, upon lining up the jack and figuring out what position was perfect, we found that the jack itself wouldn’t need a mark put on it. When looking straight down, the character line of the car lined up with a feature of the jack that visually stands out enough. With the leftover K&N stickers, we cut out the red line from their trademark logo. With the jack perfectly placed under the front jacking point, we put the red line vertically where the center of the jack should lie. The proportions of the jack are such that if you put it as far under the car as it will naturally go, it slightly contacts the plastic panel on its way up, but the stage contacts the jacking point before the arm of the jack bears much weight. We’ve now taken jack placement from a two-person task to where I can, with NASCAR-like precision, insert the jack properly both fore and aft and inboard/outboard in basically one move. Three pumps later, both wheels are in the air. Less time spent futzing with the car means more time walking the course and not getting set adrift in a sea of cones.

It looks good, but isn’t particularly noticeable if you’re not looking for it. It continues to make my SKY more (as one of my fellow female AXers said) BADASS.

-J

[BigSkyCountry]

Are you lifting the entire side (both wheels) with only one jack? Ray

[snaponbob]

Big Sky, on any of the Skys and Sols both of the wheels on one side of the car can be picked up from one jacking point. No problem.

EXCEPT ............

There are two jack points on each side. The rear jacking points are just forward of the rear wheel well. After picking up the rear tire one needs only jack up the car about 6" more and the front tire starts to come up. NO ISSUES. BUT, if one does not have a 2" think (minimum) pad in place , or special adapter, when jacking from the front point there is a substantial likelihood of cracking the plastic panel in back of the front wheel as the pick up point is above the panel line, unlike the rear jack point.

I have my Redline up and down a lot as I autocross. I NEVER use the front jack points unless I plan on putting the car on jack stands.

You've been warned !!!!

[RedHeaded RedLine]

Originally Posted by snaponbob

Big Sky, on any of the Skys and Sols both of the wheels on one side of the car can be picked up from one jacking point. No problem.
I have my Redline up and down a lot as I autocross. I NEVER use the front jack points unless I plan on putting the car on jack stands.
You've been warned !!!!

We may have to try the back, it takes about 4 pumps to get both up from the front; we'll have to see if the back works as good/better. -J

[Rob the Elder]

I use jacking pucks and lift each side from the front jacking point. Its very simple and easy. You just need a low jack.

[BigSkyCountry]

Would it not overstress the frame to lift the whole side from either the front or rear alone? I've yet to try it that way, but the old school test was to lift the whole side from one point and see if that side's door opens and closes while up. Ray

[RedHeaded RedLine]

Originally Posted by BigSkyCountry

Would it not overstress the frame to lift the whole side from either the front or rear alone? I've yet to try it that way, but the old school test was to lift the whole side from one point and see if that side's door opens and closes while up. Ray

Ideally, the sweet spot would take both wheels off the ground at the same time for the least amount of pumps. That would ensure no twisting. But, we don't have one of those.
I have faith that the convertible frame was made strong enough to hold up to the rigors of jacking.
I will let hubby explain to Mr. Man at the dealership why the car only has 3 wheels touching the ground. -J

[snaponbob]

Originally Posted by BigSkyCountry

Would it not overstress the frame to lift the whole side from either the front or rear alone? I've yet to try it that way, but the old school test was to lift the whole side from one point and see if that side's door opens and closes while up. Ray

VERY "old school". I owned a 67 Valiant convertible, and when I jacked up ANY corner the door on that side would jam closed!! The current generation of drop tops are VERY stiff in order to manage improved suspension, owner demands, and NHSTA's and DOT's requirements in crash testing. Nobody is going to compromise the structure of a Kappa by jacking it from ANY correct point.

[clif]

Originally Posted by snaponbob

.

I have my Redline up and down a lot as I autocross. I NEVER use the front jack points unless I plan on putting the car on jack stands.

You've been warned !!!!

Where do you place the jackstands for security and least damage? I can see the "lifting points", but if I use them to lift, where do I place the stands?

Clif

[snaponbob]

Originally Posted by clif

Where do you place the jackstands for security and least damage? I can see the "lifting points", but if I use them to lift, where do I place the stands?

Clif

Ummmmmmmmmmmmm ................... don't tell this to anybody else, okay? At autocross events I don't use them. If you promise not to say anything, I won't either.

At home, I usually put the jack stands under suspension "pick up" points. These spots are the pivot points of the lower control arms. I do NOT put them under the control arms near the wheels as the suspension compresses under load and that causes the jack stand to come under side loads that can move or topple them. There is a specific TSB about jacking/lifting Kappas. It lists the for JACKING points (for floor jacks) and the four LIFT points (for shop lifts). Those "lift" points are good jack stand locations as well.

Here are a couple UPL's to the Solstice forum with very good info;
Solstice Jack and lifting points - Pontiac Solstice Forum
Pontiac Solstice Forum - View Single Post - Lifting point info/Jacking Point Info

[RedHeaded RedLine]

Originally Posted by clif

Where do you place the jackstands for security and least damage? I can see the "lifting points", but if I use them to lift, where do I place the stands? Clif

That would totally defeat the purpose of what we are trying to accomplish.
When we have the car up, we are hopping for less than 3 minutes in the air. As he takes the last lug off the front tire, I lift the car. He yanks the wheel; I feed him the new one. He snugs the lugs then moves to the rear position. By that time, I have removed some lugs. As he pulls the wheel, I lift the car the rest of the way. There really isn't time or need for stands. We are now under 15 minutes from start to locking the wagon, without power tools.
With a good lithium battery wrench, he is sure we can slip under 10 minutes. -J

[clif]

Originally Posted by RedHeaded RedLine

That would totally defeat the purpose of what we are trying to accomplish.
When we have the car up, we are hopping for less than 3 minutes in the air. As he takes the last lug off the front tire, I lift the car. He yanks the wheel; I feed him the new one. He snugs the lugs then moves to the rear position. By that time, I have removed some lugs. As he pulls the wheel, I lift the car the rest of the way. There really isn't time or need for stands. We are now under 15 minutes from start to locking the wagon, without power tools.
With a good lithium battery wrench, he is sure we can slip under 10 minutes. -J

I understand your situation totally, just curious because I am going to be totally under the car doing work that will take much longer than 3 minutes.....

Clif

[RedHeaded RedLine]

Originally Posted by clif

I understand your situation totally, just curious because I am going to be totally under the car doing work that will take much longer than 3 minutes.....Clif

Ditto to where the A arms met the frame. Whatcha-doin' that you're under for so long? -J

[clif]

Originally Posted by RedHeaded RedLine

Ditto to where the A arms met the frame. Whatcha-doin' that you're under for so long? -J

Caliper, rotor replacement, as well as, hopefully, finally getting the new RPI IC mounted.

Clif

[snaponbob]

Clif and RHRL, take a look at the links I copied in my post above. They will show the jacking points. For quick tire changes a good jack will hold the car up just about for ever. The ONLY jeopardy is to the car if it falls off the jack, and shame on the operator. If one is under the car, there are multiple solid places for stands. WHY would somebody want to be under the car? How about WORKING ON IT !!!!!! Swapping exhaust, oil changes, changing shocks, are just a few things that come to mind.

[RedHeaded RedLine]

Originally Posted by clif

Caliper, rotor replacement, as well as, hopefully, finally getting the new RPI IC mounted.Clif

Remember to take pics!
I asked what he was doing, as in what work, not why would you want to be under a car.
I myself spent some time under the car recently, even had to go to Advanced to get the stands. -J