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Old 11-08-2006, 09:17 AM   #1 (permalink)
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First Detail

Quote:
So just to clarify:

In post #1 of this thread you talk about using an all-purpose cleaner for the first detail only, to remove any wax residue, etc. So is this when you would use the Dawn? Can you give us some more examples of what an acceptable all-purpose cleaner would be?

Thanks!
A mild solution of all purpose cleaner OR dawn mix is acceptable, you can use either or, which is why I mentioned both. just make sure you cut the recommended ratio to half what they suggest. For the dawn, just use enough to get some suds working in the bucket, no need to put more than an ounce or so. Gary
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Old 11-08-2006, 09:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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In other posts, Turbomangt, you mentioned using dawn dish soap. Can you give little more calrification on these products and when to use them and not to use them.
The only time you can use a MILD solution of a dawn wash is for the FIRST time you are detailing your car and spending the poper amount of time going through the steps. (wash/caly/wash/deepclean polish/ seal) Once that is done, you should not have to use dawn anymore. for regualr washings use car wash soap. Gary
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Old 11-08-2006, 09:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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First Detail

First Detail

Here is a basic guide for detailing your new Sol for the first time. Some basic things you will need are two plastic buckets, wash mitt (don’t use any type of sponge or towel) chanelli, Micro fiber, Terri, lambs wool type. Any of these are available at any auto supply store. Car wash soap, foam applicator pads, Electric leaf blower, wheel brush (soft bristle) waffle weave micro fiber towel, smaller MF towels, clay bar, all purpose cleaner, garden tank type sprayer, (optional) hose and water. Detailing chemicals: clay bar,spray and shine, paint cleaner, paint sealer, poly-seal (optional) dressing, wheel cleaner.

Make sure you work in the shade. Fill one bucket with car wash soap and water, the other with plain water. In your tank sprayer, put a cut ratio less 50% of what they recommend of all purpose cleaner. NOTE, we will use the all purpose cleaner for the first detail only NEVER use all purpose cleaner for regular washings. The reason we are using it now, is because we want to remove ALL contaminants plus any wax you or the dealer might have put on your finish. First spray water on the entire car, wheels and wheel wells also. Now spray the solution on the car from the tank sprayer. Starting from the top of the car, using your wash mitt wash the car as you normally would. Make sure however that you use the fresh water bucket to rinse out the wash mitt, then to go the soapy water. Save wheels for last. Change soapy water as often as necessary depending on how dirty your car is. Now rinse the car. Get a fresh bucket of soapy water, using your wheel brush, clean your wheels and wheel wells, rinse.
Before you dry, clay the car, (read the sticky for clay bar procedure) wash again to remove any clay residue. Use the leaf blower and blow dry the car, final drying use waffle weave MF towel. Spray dressing on the tires and wheel wells.
Paint cleaner/polish. Put a small amount of paint cleaner on your foam pad, using back and forth motion work product into the finish. Remove with a small MF towel, Work in small sections at a time, do not allow product to dry. Do entire car. Keep in mind the claying removes contaminants “ON” the finish and my paint cleaner will prep the paint for final application of the sealant.
Next, using a new applicator pad, apply a small amount of my sealant to the pad, apply a thin layer over the finish, allow to dry 20 minutes, (this allows the sealant to bond to the finish) remove with MF towel. You should put a layer of sealant on the wheels as well.

The poly seal should be used once a month or as often as you want, it has polymers which will prolong the life of the sealant, keeping your finish looking new longer. It will enhance the look, giving it a glass like finish.
See, that wasn’t so bad was it? GARY
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Old 11-20-2006, 06:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Introducing some of Gary's very informative posts.
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Old 11-21-2006, 04:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Gary,
What do you recommend for the top?
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Old 11-22-2006, 09:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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For the sol top, all you need to do is wash it with the same car wash solution you are using for the finish, In the event you get a small stain, use some all purpose cleaner (like 409 or simple green) use a old toothbruch with the cleaner to aggitate then mark rinse well. I have heard good things about that rag top stuff, that might be good to protect it. I think I may do it on mine. gary
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Old 11-22-2006, 11:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbomangt View Post
For the sol top, all you need to do is wash it with the same car wash solution you are using for the finish, In the event you get a small stain, use some all purpose cleaner (like 409 or simple green) use a old toothbruch with the cleaner to aggitate then mark rinse well. I have heard good things about that rag top stuff, that might be good to protect it. I think I may do it on mine. gary
First, let me chime in here on Gary's products - they are simply the best I have ever used on a car. If you haven't yet - buy some and try it (do I get a commision, Gary?).

For the top, I have and use the Ragtopp products, both the cleaner and the protectant. Easy to use and the top looks new after 7500 miles. The protectant does just that - water rolls off.
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Old 11-24-2006, 06:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Now it Shines!

Thanks Gary,
Attached are the pictures after claying and sealing. Gary is correct car from dealer had glue and polished in finger prints on the car, could see all the swirls on the paint, shiny but looked bad. I used the Macquires clay kit and dish soap first to get all the dealer junk wax off. Now the car is show ready I already last Friday used raggtopp on the canvas it was good to see it bead up today.

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Attached Thumbnails
first-detail-mvc-004f.jpg  first-detail-mvc-001f.jpg  
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Old 12-02-2006, 11:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Dri Wash?

Gary, are you familiar with the Dri Wash product? I have heard some good things about it. Any input would be appreciated
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Old 12-02-2006, 11:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtaylor View Post
Gary, are you familiar with the Dri Wash product? I have heard some good things about it. Any input would be appreciated
Someone just asked Gary this on the Solforum yesterday.

Dri Wash 'n Guard

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reno@solsticeforum.com
Has anybody used the DRI WASH 'n GUARD products on their Solstice? If you have, I was just wondering if you
were pleased with the results or if you had any problems.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbomangt
Thier has been much talk on this subject, its basically a quick detail spray like my spray and shine. If you know how
to use it, QDS work fine, the problems occur when people think they can use it instead of washing their car, this
will cause serious trouble. whenever you have dirt/grime on your car, you need surfactants (soap) and water to
break down the contaminants safely, so it flows off your car, It you try to use a towel and QDS on a dirty car, you
will cause swirls and scratches. QDS is designed to remove dust and finger prints. Gary
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Old 01-10-2007, 10:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Gary, the following message was posted on the "Saturn Sky Discussion > Saturn Sky Redline Discussion, "WTF??? My RedLine is back to Event 2000! [Not anymore...]" thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyPainter

The factory does not apply any type of sealant/wax to the paint. Your vehicle is painted with a Dupont clearcoat two component urethane product on top of a waterborne basecoat. Even thouth the vehicle goes through an oven the chemistry of a 2k product actually requires 30-60 days to properly cure. It should not be waxed for at least 30 days.


I know that detailing isn't waxing, per se, but does that mean that we should wait 30-60 days before detailing/sealing a new Sky?
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Old 01-12-2007, 08:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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"Cure" time is more of an issue with after market painting, example when you get into an accident and the body shop paints your car, in that case you should wait 30-60 days, they don't have the hi tech ovens to bake in the finish like at the factory. New cars are oven cured, which means by the time you get delivery of your car, its ready to be wax/sealed. Gary
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Old 06-25-2007, 03:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hi guys...I'm a newbie to this forum. Just got my ChiliPepRed Sky delivered last Wednesday...man it is ever awesome to drive...
Cool topics...need good info in how to nicely wash this baby...it's been raining ever since I picked it up and want to clean it as soon as possible!!!

Great tips...just got through reading some of the tips for detailing...THANX...got my answers.

Last edited by Pesky1 : 06-26-2007 at 02:45 PM. Reason: Noticed previous thread on car care...
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Old 07-29-2007, 03:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I am a new owner and have not yet received my dark green with black top SKY.
I have been looking around this site some and this thread about cleaning information will be very helpful,lots of tips,thanks.
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Old 07-29-2007, 03:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Welcome!! Don't see many or enough green Skys. Beautiful color. You'll certainly want to keep that thing clean.
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Old 07-29-2007, 08:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Welcome!! Don't see many or enough green Skys. Beautiful color. You'll certainly want to keep that thing clean.
Cerberus,thanks for the reply,I wasn't sure if my post would get any reply this soon, great site! I will be going to find some of the products I have seen here.
I choose the green after seeing a green SKY at the dealers. that one had a brown top. I wanted the black top.
thanks,
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Old 08-13-2007, 09:53 AM   #17 (permalink)
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All this is really great stuff! What is everyone's take on the Turtle Wax ICE? I use it on my motorcycle and it works like rain-X. the water just rolls right off and seems to keep the paint looking great! I used it on the Sky yesterday but not on the ragtop since I don't have it sealed yet.
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Old 08-20-2007, 01:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
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ICE is a decent wax that doesnt contain many fillers, but it is still a wax and will only last 3-4 weeks. The best protection available for your paint's finish is a synthetic paint sealant. It will give the same great shine and water beading, but it will last 4-6 months! Check it out on my website in my sig.
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Detailing

thanks for the great posting. Questions

what do you polish the chrome with?

how do you make the tires look new.

do you sell the window sealer that you mention in your posting?

how long does it take to get your detailing products

in general how do the prices compare with similar product (dont have the time or energy to search the web but will pay a competitive price)

thanks
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Old 11-01-2007, 12:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hello there!

We use the same paint cleaner and sealant that is used on the painted surfaces on chrome. If it has any defects it may need some different products and special attention before sealing.

To get your tires looking new just clean with our Ultimate Tire and Wheel cleaner and a stiff bristled brush (on the tires only) and then rinse. To acheive the wet black look then apply the Ultimate Dressing and allow to air dry.

Gary and I use the same Ultimate Paint Sealant that is used on the body. It works just as good as rainx, but I believe lasts longer.

If you order from our website http://www.perfectautofinish.com I will have shipped out the next business day via UPS. If you need in a hurry overnight shipping can be arranged.

Being a small distributor, I may not be able to offer the lowest prices around, but you know that you are getting a quality product. Also, if you ever need guidance in product usage or any detailing questions I am just a email or phone call away.

Be sure to check out our detailing DVD if you need any tips or instruction on how to give your sky that perfect auto finish !
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