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Old 04-29-2008, 11:30 AM   #16 (permalink)
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And if you find them, do you buff the whole car with a buffer or buff them out by hand?
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes I do and other buff/polish the entire car, from bottom bumper lip to the roof. The only thing I might do with my hand is buff wheels,tail pipes and metal parts in the engine bay or area where my polisher can't reach.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:54 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Then you forgot the #1 rule of car polishing "Polishing rule 1: Use the least aggressive tool or polishing material necessary to get the job done. Hand polishing is the least aggressive, followed by a dual-action (DA) polisher, followed by a rotary buffer." Taken from autopia.org


r polishing:
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Old 04-30-2008, 04:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Actually its the least aggressive method. Not the least aggressive tool or material. You do that when doing it by either hand, da polisher or rotary.

Also alot of people alot of people on autopia would rather use polisher on the car, then doing it by hand. Doing the entire car by hand would take along time to do and your going to get tired. A polisher is much fast and you don't get tired as fast as you would if you did the entire car by hand.

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Old 04-30-2008, 04:20 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Also they make variety of pads for the amount of cut ,polishing and waxing.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:19 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:42 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I know all about different grain pads, and different grain polishes as I am a machinist. All polishes and pads leave tool marks. The smaller the grain the smaller the marks. The idea is to get the marks small enough so they cannot be seen by the naked eye. If you can acheive this with a buffer, more power to ya! The reason I perfer buffing painted surfaces in a back and forth motion is because circular marks are more easy to see in the light. The reason for this is that straight marks can only be seen at one angle where the light hits it. Circular cuts reflect the light at all angles and are much harder to make invisible to the naked eye. Buffers are great for removing damage, oxidation, and deep scratches, but for removing small shallow marks hand buffing in a back and forth motion allows you greater control and feel for the repair. Another reason is that machines, no mater what the grain or grit of the media or polish, remove material way faster than by hand so by their very nature high speed buffers are the most aggressive method.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:56 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Your not removing material if you not using a cutting pads or wool pads. But stop trying to say you get the best shine by doing it be hand. The best finish that your get is with a rotary(circular) polisher.
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:32 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Even microfiber+polish+pressure+friction removes material. Any Polish removes material. Polish is an abrasive material by definition. Here is a link so you can educate yourself. Polishing Paint to Perfection - Autopia.org
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:33 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Alot of the Long Island club guys use this stuff, it works great...
Formula 113 Cleaner wax
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Old 05-01-2008, 05:30 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redhotchillipepper View Post
Even microfiber+polish+pressure+friction removes material. Any Polish removes material. Polish is an abrasive material by definition. Here is a link so you can educate yourself. Polishing Paint to Perfection - Autopia.org

Not all polish have abrasives and cut. Some polish like glazes contain no abrasive and use to hype the paint finish before sealing with a sealant or wax.
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