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Old 07-11-2010, 12:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Buttress Chrome Trunk Plate

Has anyone ever replaced the chrome plate on the trunk where the buttress locks in...it is the top chromed plate only...it is part#15292357 (if that helps). If so, any directions?
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Old 07-11-2010, 01:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Mike, I have been looking in my GM 2009 M-Car Service Manuals and can't seem to find anything on that device... Got to be something, 3 manuals with about 600 pages each!!!!
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Old 07-11-2010, 01:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes. They are held on with tape like the badges. I have done both cars. Currently mine are black
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Rob...thanks for that info. It does help. I would tell u a tale of woe what the Pontiac dealership did...but that story is too long.

Vic..thanks for looking...

Just went down to my garage....it is held down by tape. Monday the order goes in.

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Old 07-11-2010, 12:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would tell u a tale of woe what the Pontiac dealership did...but that story is too long.

I want to hear the story....
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Originally Posted by marlboromike View Post
Vic..thanks for looking...
You have the 2007 M-Car Service Manuals just like I have the 2009, did you find anything about that cap on the truck, I can't seem to fine anything in the 2009 manual...
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Had mine replaced when my trunk was painted... the body shop had no problem getting new ones or figuring out placement upon finishing her up. Not getting fingerprints under the 3M... they can't figure out though. lol
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I read your lengthy and sad story. My opinion is your dealer is an idiot. But then . .

When at a car show last summer, a friends Sol suffered a failure of the left hand buttress release. He asked me my advice, and I told him that I had read a thread on the forum about opening the stuck buttress using a screwdriver. He happened to have a small phillips screwdriver. It took me about 3 minutes, mostly because I was trying to be very careful with his car, but by examining the open buttress lock and observing the location of the locking wire, I slipped the screwdriver under and then past the stuck buttress plug and shure enough, it popped open. My friend said, "show me how to do that" so I locked the buttress and stuck the screwdriver in through the hole, felt around and popped it free in less than a minute. So then he did it too.

The risk is that you might scratch the chrome cover if you are not very careful or if your tool has burrs. But its a trivial procedure and saves a lot of time and potential damage to the car which might result from trying other methods.
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I now have that special tool to release the buttress...and will have a replacement chromed plate tomorrow...car is almost back to normal. Found a body shop who can use a rubber mallet and towel to bang the lip under the rear fender without damaging the paint. Remember, u r looking up, under the wheel well...u do not see this when u r viewing the car...u can only see it if u bend your head under the wheel well....but it has to be repaired. At least no paint damage.
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Old 07-12-2010, 10:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Rob the Elder,
Please ,do you have the post for the use of the scewdriver and how to open stuck buttress?
Thanks
This has cause a lot of damage to are Roadsters due to bad service training.
Thanks,
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Old 07-13-2010, 12:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Rob the Elder,
Please ,do you have the post for the use of the scewdriver and how to open stuck buttress?
Thanks
This has cause a lot of damage to are Roadsters due to bad service training.
Thanks,
LLLFLY
If you pop your buttres's and look down into the hole, you will see a wire on the side toward the center of the car. This wire engages with the slot in the metal locking portion of the buttress - the part that penetrates the trunk lid.

When you want to release the buttress, a signal is sent to a relay that energizes and basically pulls the locking wire toward the center of the car and releases the buttress lock, at which time a spring acts on the buttress swinging it up and forward to clear the trunk lid.

When the buttress fails to release, it is is generally because the plastic fitting on the end of the release cable fails. It's similar to a brake or clutch cable on a bike. The eng of the cable housing is mechanically held and when the cable is retracted, a fitting on the end pulls on the locking wire, moving it inwards and releasing the buttress lock. If the end of the cable comes detached from the wire, it can not unlock the wire.

If you manually move the wire, with a thin tool lice a small Phillips screwdriver, the the buttress will pop up.

Get a small screwdriver. Release the buttresses and view down into one of the holes. You will see a silver wire there. It's the locking wire. Insert your screwdriver into the hole and push the wire toward the center of the car. It's a little stiff but you can move it. Get a feel for where you need to hold the screwdriver and how much force is required to move the locking wire

Now, while holding the screwdriver I'm the hole on the side with the lock, move the buttress down and observe how the nut tress mechanism will deform itself to accommodate the screwdriver. If you wish, you can lock the buttress with the screwdriver inserted in the hole, then by pushing against the wire, unlock the buttress manually

The only tricky part of dealing with a stuck buttress is getting the screwdriver inserted into the hole without scratching the chrome trim piece. But you can do it. Just push up slightly as you insert the unlocking tool of choice, and apply firm pressure to rotate the plug out of the way while you insert the tool
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Old 07-13-2010, 02:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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car is almost back to normal. Found a body shop who can use a rubber mallet and towel to bang the lip under the rear fender without damaging the paint.
Mike, I'm missing something here, what happened?
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Old 07-13-2010, 05:05 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Mike, I'm missing something here, what happened?
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Reading all this makes me so very, very happy
that I have the emergency (non-electric) trunk release
installed on my SKY.


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Old 07-13-2010, 10:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Rob the Elder,MMike,
1st thank you Rob.
I have been working with MMike on this thoulbe. I am going to the shed in the am. And
work on this on going hang up. This pc that brakes will happen with all the cars in a matter of time. The damage to MMike car was not lite due to this eazy repair. I will also take a copy of this fix to My sevice dept. after I know what I am taking about.
This is why this site is a must to have.
Thanks,
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Last edited by lllfly; 07-14-2010 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:31 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Reading all this makes me so very, very happy
that I have the emergency (non-electric) trunk release
installed on my SKY.


The challenge is that the manual release uses the same cable set to release the buttress locks. If the cable end fails, then the manual release will not release.

I did read a recent thread where the poster had effected a repair by crimping a split lead fishing weight to the end of the cable in place of the failed plastic fitting and saved having to replace an expensive cable

When mine fails I intend to explore this repair option
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