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Old 02-11-2012, 06:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Driver Door Window Kaput..

Worked last week when I washed it, went down that is, and I "had to help it back up". Today, it's dead. I suspect that it is the motor. After looking at the resources I have, looks like that the part needed is a "motor, regulator assy" unfortunately I could not make out the part number since it is blurred out on my parts copy.
The number I can make out or guess really is:
152???79 or
152?3379

And those numbers could be wrong. Has anybody ever had the window motor fail on their car and have the dealer replace it? On my documentation it is saying that this assembly is an outrageous $200.00 dollars, WOW!!

I'm pretty sure the switch is ok cause the window does try to go down ..
that leaves the motor mechanism... I let it alone at this point cause I don't want it to be stuck in the open position..

I guess since my car is now approaching it's 6 year birthday, "other" things will start dieing out on me, my concern is, that these "things" could start to be getting expensive.. All I know I don't want to get rid of it, it is running great right now, wanna keep riding it..
Any help on the part #?? This one will be fixed by me, dealer charges are way out of line IMO..
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Old 02-11-2012, 06:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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replacement parts

have you checked item such as this: Discount Body Parts - 2007 saturn sky replacement window motor repc468701 - 2007 Saturn Sky Replacement Window Motor
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Old 02-11-2012, 06:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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WOW, heavy man, No I haven't check it out yet, BUT I WILL thanks for the heads up..
I believe I'll take out the defective one first, and go and make sure they have it and compare them, even if it's a 3rd party (not OEM), long as it's compatible, I'll give it a whirl!! Oh yea,,
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I picked up a pair of window regulators from source one cheap. They have the same motor
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Old 02-12-2012, 10:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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call Clay at Source One

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Old 02-12-2012, 12:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteBlues View Post
On my documentation it is saying that this assembly is an outrageous $200.00 dollars, WOW!!
Sounds about right. Many times it's not the part, but the time needed to disassemble/assemble the pieces to get to the part that rules the cost.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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MB: Definitely take the door apart first. If it acts like it is trying to move the window: Then it may just be a broken capstan guide in the track. All of those parts are typically made out of plastic. If one breaks, then there will be too much drag on the window for the motor to overcome. The drive motors typically last a long time, but that doesn't mean you haven't got a bad one, so that could be your problem-but definitely look over the entire mechanism first. If you find nothing visually wrong, pull the motor and test it.
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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MB: Definitely take the door apart first. If it acts like it is trying to move the window: Then it may just be a broken capstan guide in the track. All of those parts are typically made out of plastic. If one breaks, then there will be too much drag on the window for the motor to overcome. The drive motors typically last a long time, but that doesn't mean you haven't got a bad one, so that could be your problem-but definitely look over the entire mechanism first. If you find nothing visually wrong, pull the motor and test it.
Yup, sounds like a plausible plan. I'll take it apart before I order anything.. Next WE is probably a doable time, to much going on this WE plus it gots down into the 40's down here...burrrr... tomorrow will be the coldest day so far... that dang wind...whooeee..
I'll update once I do a diagnosis... (dang, feel like a doctor)..
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I suppose these cars will be harder on window motors. Most cars windows rarely open. Just turn on the AC. But we put them down every time we put the top down.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I drove my convertible Buick for 25 years. It had about 275,000 miles on it when I let it go for the Sky. I was still running the OEM window motors (4 of them). On one of the front window motors I had to home engineer a repair on the wiring harness. The plug on the motor had finally rusted out. But the motor was still fine. I couldn't even begin to guess how many thousands of times I ran all four windows up and down. Never had a motor fail. Plenty of capstans broke, or rail failures, etc. But never had a motor go out.
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The wear item on the motor is the brushes and as GS stated, motors are designed to run continuously for years. Ours run intermittently for very few cycles.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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parts and parts

Yes there are many parts in the system that could cause an issue and a self-diagnosis wouldn't hurt to see what is really going on inside.

My sister-in-law had a Grand-Am - 1990s I think - that had both window motors fail - not sure if the part was terribly expensive - but the stock part was riveted in and had to be drilled out - and the new part bolted in. If memory serves - the failure mode in her case was that the glass simply dropped into the door and the window button did nothing. I don't recall taking the motors apart to see how they failed or there being any other issue with the track etc.

if the part used in the Sky was substandard we likely would have heard more reports of failures by now.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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UPDATE and DISAPPOINTMENT

Where to begin.. I tried to repair this problem today, spent 2 1/2- 3 hours on my efforts.. total disappointment .. and found a nasty problem..

Before I begin, Well I went ahead and ordered that part from the post above at Discount Body Parts - 2007 Saturn sky replacement window motor repc468701 - 2007 Saturn Sky Replacement Window Motor and received it as ordered. (I didn't want to take it all apart and find out that I did need it), so much for trying to get ahead of the game. Check out the picture from the OEM part (left) and the one received...


First of all, the part received is nothing like the original, look closely and you will see that unfortunately the holes do not line up, (not even close) the OEM part is also threaded AND the power plug is on the opposite side, so much for trying to save $170.. the gears are totally different AND I'm glad I didn't order from gmpartsdirect either, since we can't return the part. As it stands now, I don't need the motor, with these guys, we will see tomorrow when I call them if they will refund anything, especially since it is the wrong part ..stay tuned on that, and here I thought I would be a hero and find a 3rd party part for us...

So once that I determined the part was SOL, I looked closely at the whole mechanism assembly, and saw some corrosion while the window was fully up.. Well, I decided to clean it all out, I used "everything I had" which is considerable, soften the crap up a bit and used my high power compressor to blow all the gunk out, and was successful in cleaning out all the gunge, rust and crap off the spindle assembly.. (right proud of myself, thought I fixed my problem cause the original motor IS OK).
Check out the corrosion on the cables..

Sorry for those 2 crappy pics.. (I was angry by then)
So I reassembled it all back up thinking I was home free.. (Yea right)
No where near, I started to lower the window and heard like what I would describe a "crunching" sound.. so I thought WTF.. as I played with it to ID the horrible sound, it was the steel cable (I assume its steel) unraveling.. Once you shine a light inside the door,Holy crap, now I understand why I got stabbed when cleaning the spindle assembly earlier, I was suspicious then, but that "one little wire is nothing", I thought, right? holy cow the whole thing was unraveling for the FRONT part of the cable assembly.. And then nothing, the motor over heated and shut down when I was trying to get the dam window closed again, then I started seeing ..$$$$ signs starting crossing my eyes.. I thought I was SOL.. BTW, that "crushing" sound was there before, that is why the window "jams" problem was the unraveled cable can't get into the small hole of the tube..you just don't think about a cable is unraveling when I found the problem initially on my OP.

So here I am, thinking of what I want to do. Who knows what the entire window assembly goes for, OR how much it would cost, I also don't know if I have the knowledge, talent or the tools to even attempt this repair, even if I could get the entire part assembly..

Anyway, sorry for the long post, I wanted to post it today since it is all fresh in my memory.. I'll have to discuss with my wife tonight when she gets home if we want to fix this, cause it is a problem with BOTH windows..sadly.. Who wants to ride with the rag top down and the windows up?/ not me..
Now the little things, expensive little things on this car are starting to pile up, needless to say, I am deeply disappointed tonight..

I will say this in the cars defense. This car was only garage when hurricanes hit, so in 5 1/2 years, this car has been thru ALL the elements down here in south florida, rain up the gazoo, heats, etc etc.. The corrosion has a mysterious way of getting into our stuff down here, even tho this car has only smelled salt water 2-3 time.. the elements however over time will 'eat" everything.. yes even down here..
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Last edited by MidniteBlues; 02-26-2012 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Its probably easier replacing the entire window regulator. Had I known you were going to buy just the motor, I would have advised against it. Like I told you when I PMed you, I built thousands of Sky/Solstice doors. I'd be glad to help over the phone or email with your repair.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I agree with Bob: Probably best to order an entire window regulator assembly. Then keep the old regulator for future parts.
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