About a week ago (after an uneventful 2900+ mile drive from Pensacola, FL to Oak Harbor, WA) my RL popped a CEL for P0010 and P0011 ("A" Camshaft Posit Actuator Circuit, and "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced...). I panicked, and then spent a few hours on here and some of the sister forums researching. I decided to go ahead and reset the light and clear the codes after un-plugging and re-plugging the sensor plugs.
My car drives/drove fine I got on it a little and it still seemed fine, but have generally babied it since then. On Saturday the CEL came on again for the same two codes. After sitting overnight the CEL is no longer illuminated, but it does show the 2 codes still as history (obviously).
First question: Is the consensus around here that it's a faulty sensor/solenoid and not mechanical?
Second question: I have about 2 weeks of my powertrain warranty left. Are the Camshaft Sensors covered under it?
The only 2 authorized warranty dealers are about an hour away from here, and with my schedule I'm probably only going to be able to get it done on a weekend. If it's not even covered I'll just order the parts myself and swap them out (with fingers crossed that it was the issue).
Thanks.
__________________ Brad
'08 Redline Manual
Polar White, Black on Black, Single Disc Monsoon
"Fly Navy"
1988 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z (R.I.P.)
1993 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 150K
2004 Saturn Ion Level 3 140K (only new car I've bought)
2007 Lexus IS250 (her's)
Navy,
I was on the CVA-38.
Call the dealer setup for them to check it.
I believe it would be cover.
LLLFLY
__________________
08 PW R/L 5-spd,The Wolf
Best of Show in Old Bridge,N.J.
Goodyear Blimp flight 2010 NASSM
Best Interior 2012 NASSM
Show Chrome SKY SE Rims, Vogues
DDMWORKS Loaded, Wind Restrictor
Good advice. I'm at the dealer right now, and the CEL stuff is covered under the powertrain woohoo. I could have done it myself if I was still at home in Pensacola, but this isn't too bad just costing the 50 mile drive to my closest Saturn Authorized Dealer. I'm having part of the 30k service done that I can't really do myself right now. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, because the service writer said, "Yep, we lift it just like a Corvette," before I could even finish asking him to make sure they were careful of the fenders when lifting it.
I've done a couple of deployments on the Stennis (CVN-74), and I'm getting ready to go meet the Eisenhower (CVN-69). Thanks for your service!
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__________________ Brad
'08 Redline Manual
Polar White, Black on Black, Single Disc Monsoon
"Fly Navy"
1988 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z (R.I.P.)
1993 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 150K
2004 Saturn Ion Level 3 140K (only new car I've bought)
2007 Lexus IS250 (her's)
I have the P0011 error codes and researched it here to find it is probably one of the two solenoids on the top/front of the engine. (forgot their names)
I found them and cannot get the connectors off. One small tan clip comes off but the connector won't budge.
I read how to read them with an ohmmeter and could do so by piercing the wires with a fine needle, but if I can't get the connectors off I can't replace the solenoids (about $36 I think).
Help! I may be able to save some $$ if I can troubleshoot/replace the parts.
__________________
08 PW R/L 5-spd,The Wolf
Best of Show in Old Bridge,N.J.
Goodyear Blimp flight 2010 NASSM
Best Interior 2012 NASSM
Show Chrome SKY SE Rims, Vogues
DDMWORKS Loaded, Wind Restrictor
I found them and cannot get the connectors off. One small tan clip comes off but the connector won't budge.
On each connector there's a square insert tab (the gray thing in the photo below). Pull that out first (not off, just out until it stops). Then you'll be able to press down on the bendy tab that 'catches' onto the barb on the solenoid to free it off the barb... then you can pull the connector off while keeping the tab pressed.
__________________ Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...
Last edited by TomatoSoup; 12-18-2012 at 10:41 PM.
Thanks so much for taking the time to help me. I had takend the tab completely off and then tugged, pulled on the connector without any results. I'll try it tomorrow by pressing in on the tab you mentioned while I pull. Here's hoping... Bo
well, i checked the resistance of the solenoids and they were 11.2 ohms, which I think is ok. I'll check the other post that gave the range
where to next for error code P0011? bo
I think I remember reading that they should be between 8 and 12, and over 12 is a bad. How long before the code came back? Might be one of the the camshaft position actuator valves or sensors, and not the solenoid?
__________________ Brad
'08 Redline Manual
Polar White, Black on Black, Single Disc Monsoon
"Fly Navy"
1988 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z (R.I.P.)
1993 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 150K
2004 Saturn Ion Level 3 140K (only new car I've bought)
2007 Lexus IS250 (her's)
bobarry: well, i checked the resistance of the solenoids and they were 11.2 ohms, which I think is ok. I'll check the other post that gave the range
where to next for error code P0011? bo
The solenoid coil is not the only failure point for the valve. The coil can be fine, but if the spool sticks you will get a code.
Quote:
bradwp: I think I remember reading that they should be between 8 and 12, and over 12 is a bad. How long before the code came back? Might be one of the the camshaft position actuator valves or sensors, and not the solenoid?
The "solenoid" is the valve. Technically it is a solenoid valve. The sensor could be the problem, but almost never is.
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John
Lexington, KY
VIN 00252
2.4 NA Manual
Midnight Blue
Thanks a lot for the replies. I cleared the code and it's been off for a couple days. So I'm gonna coast along until it trips again.
Got a new bug to chase: heater temperature control is broke. Either full hot or off. Matching our up & down weather.
Merry Christmas, as applicable, to all. Bo
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