Help! Intermittant P0010 and P0011 - Page 2 - Saturn Sky Forums: Saturn Sky Forum
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobarry View Post
Got a new bug to chase: heater temperature control is broke. Either full hot or off. Matching our up & down weather.
Merry Christmas, as applicable, to all. Bo
This is almost certainly your problem: heater/AC blower stopped working - Pontiac Solstice Forum

EDIT: OR, you said temperature control (not fan control). Then, it maybe this: http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...-issues-54741/

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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 07:43 PM
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I got the error code again today. Gonna reset and wait again.

I'm ashamed that I didn't initially remember how a solenoid works! I retired from that technical stuff 6 years ago but have done it since I was 14 and should have remembered.

The solenoid is indeed a coil of wire whose failure mode is USUALLY a short (0 ohms) or an open (infinite ohms), As someone noted, the plunger that is supposedly pulled by the voltage on the coil may or may not make its full travel if it is sticking.

So, I'm guessing the error code is tripped by failure of whatever FUNCTION the solenoid is supposed to do, and not by a resistance reading or the position of the plunger.

Conclusion: Should I spend $36 times 2 and change them both?
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 05:15 AM
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For $36.00 yes, I would do both.
LLLFLY

Do to this post and TS I started a new book.
Name Codes.
To help someone in need. Like me.
I have been PNT out all the codes we have been
having. Inc my own that I cause.
Thank you JohnRR for doing the PNT.

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 11:06 AM
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bobarry : ..... So, I'm guessing the error code is tripped by failure of whatever FUNCTION the solenoid is supposed to do, and not by a resistance reading or the position of the plunger.

Conclusion: Should I spend $36 times 2 and change them both?
The solenoid valves in question change their respective cam timing when they are actuated. Each has an associated sensor that provides feedback about the actual camshaft position. There are actually several possible failure modes, and any of them will result in the same fault code(s).

1) The wiring could be faulty.
2) The solenoid coil could fail, either open or shorted.
3) The solenoid valve spool could be stuck.
4) The oil flow to or from the valve could be blocked or inadequate.
5) The camshaft actuator could be stuck or broken.
6) The position sensor (or its wiring) would be faulty.

Yes. I would (and did) replace both solenoid valves.

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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-28-2012, 08:26 PM
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Done. I have ordered the two solenoids from buy-oem-parts for total cost of $82.
I want to thank everyone for all the information.
Next time I'm in for repairs I'm going to ask to see how much $$ I saved.

May next year be even better than this year for all!

Bo
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-28-2012, 08:50 PM
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A pair going into stock.
Great post.
LLLFLY

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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 04:44 PM
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I also have an 11 code ,,plus 700 / 2637. Did that fix the problem? do you have the part numbers of the solenoids.

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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 07:37 PM
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Thank you!

Checked both, 12.7 ohms and 13.7 ohms looks like I'll be replacing both.

Alan

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 07:39 PM
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Help with this..

I'm having to replace mine on my 2009 RL, I pull the grey tab up till it stops but, do not see a bendy tab and can't pull the connector off.

Also, is the intake one on the left looking at the front of the motor? mine are not marked like in the picture


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On each connector there's a square insert tab (the gray thing in the photo below). Pull that out first (not off, just out until it stops). Then you'll be able to press down on the bendy tab that 'catches' onto the barb on the solenoid to free it off the barb... then you can pull the connector off while keeping the tab pressed.

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 10:25 PM
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I'm having to replace mine on my 2009 RL, I pull the grey tab up till it stops but, do not see a bendy tab and can't pull the connector off.

Also, is the intake one on the left looking at the front of the motor? mine are not marked like in the picture
Ahh, so here's your other post.

Your intake is the same side on your car as the one marked INT in the picture!

You pull the gray tab, then press (squeeze) the catch to free the clip. The "bendy" catch is the rectangular black piece in the center of the gray tab (i.e. on the right side of the connector in the photo) - that's free to be pushed in once the gray tab is pulled up. Once you push the catch in, you can pull the connector up and off.

Honestly, I think that if this part is proving too difficult for you, you should probably ask a friend that knows more about cars to help. Or take it to a mechanic.

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 09:10 PM
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Lucky me. I'm on my way to NASSM, 1000 miles from home, and about the same from Bushkill. I got a CEL, and OnStar tells me it's P0011. Looks easy to replace, but I don't have any tools with me. Sky seems to be OK, and apparently it might clear itself, or I can wait until I get home.


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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 09:26 PM
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It can wait, not to worry. Mine was on and off for a few months before I got them changed out. Very easy to swap them out, hardest part was removing the plugs, watch the u-tube videos. I would also suggest replacing both sensors.

Alan

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Originally Posted by Rusty Boltz View Post
Lucky me. I'm on my way to NASSM, 1000 miles from home, and about the same from Bushkill. I got a CEL, and OnStar tells me it's P0011. Looks easy to replace, but I don't have any tools with me. Sky seems to be OK, and apparently it might clear itself, or I can wait until I get home.

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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-13-2014, 09:21 PM
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Well, I got the CEL a couple of times yesterday, but not at all today (and I drove over 500 miles today). Guess I won't worry about it.


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