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Old 01-21-2013, 04:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Looking For Coolant Change Advice

I've never done more then an oil change on my car but I'm taking a shot at switching out my coolant today. I jacked up the front passenger side, removed the wheel and was able to get to the white drain plug on the radiator. I'm now looking to drain the water pump. Is this the water pump and is the green screw the one I'm supposed to loosen or remove.

After the drain should I fill it up again with filtered or distilled water run the engine and drain? How much fluid should I be able to get out of there so I have some idea if I got it all?

Finally when I'm ready to fill it back up with coolant do I need to apply any sealant on the water pump drain screw or can I just tighten it back up?

While I was down there I noticed my bushing has a crack in it. Is this normal?

Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Crack in sway bar bushing is normal. It is made that way so you can remove the bushing without having to unhook the sway bar.

Someone else will have to chime in on the Coolant Flush, I have not done one yet.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Though they may not answer all your questions, these may give some tips...

*HOW TO* Change Thermostat on 2.4 - Pontiac Solstice Forum
How to change the coolant?
Change coolant original method!
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Last edited by TomatoSoup; 01-21-2013 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks, I've been reading up about purging the air but for a beginner like me I have no idea what the water pump looks like. After reading the thermostat post I'm pretty sure I found the water pump. Now if someone could just confirm the green screw and if I need to pick up some sort of sealant.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I got tired of waiting and removed the green one. It was correct but it sure was hard to remove. So if you you want the most difficult and uncomfortable way to drain the water pump then do it by raising the front passenger side and removing the front wheel.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I think I will let the dealer deal with it. Only needs it every 50K miles or so I believe..
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You are very wise. Burping the system is not as easy as it looks in the video too. I think its mostly because I didn't have one person hold the tank up high while filling it slowly. I tried to fill it while level and then raise it up thinking gravity would do its thing. I'm guessing this trapped a lot of air. I spent several hours elevating and rocking it back and forth watching air bubbles slowly come up. I tried to pull off the radiator hose so I could pour directly into it as suggested but I'm not strong enough to get it off. I actually have about one quart left to fill based on how much fluid came out so I have probably another hour of burping when I get home tonight.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I think I will let the dealer deal with it. Only needs it every 50K miles or so I believe..
Or five years. I'm due this spring.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You are very wise. Burping the system is not as easy as it looks in the video too. I think its mostly because I didn't have one person hold the tank up high while filling it slowly. I tried to fill it while level and then raise it up thinking gravity would do its thing. I'm guessing this trapped a lot of air. I spent several hours elevating and rocking it back and forth watching air bubbles slowly come up. I tried to pull off the radiator hose so I could pour directly into it as suggested but I'm not strong enough to get it off. I actually have about one quart left to fill based on how much fluid came out so I have probably another hour of burping when I get home tonight.
May be a day late/dollar short, but this method worked very well for me... My coolant flush Vac-n-fill method
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Getn ready to change the coolant myself due to the upper radiator hose issue with the redline and been fighting air bubbles since i bought the car waiting on check valves and the hose looked at the hand pump tomatoesoup used at harbor freight is $5 plus $6.99 shipping so i went out to home depot found the same pump $11.98 plus tax its in the lawn and garden section by the gas cans n smsll engine stuff saved the post man the stress of bringing me another package(i forgot to tip him this xmas lol)
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Red vs green

I've had a few people tell me to get rid of the red Dex-cool and go back to good ol fashioned green Prestone. I've heard the Dex-cool is very corosive. Anybody hear the same?
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I've had a few people tell me to get rid of the red Dex-cool and go back to good ol fashioned green Prestone. I've heard the Dex-cool is very corosive. Anybody hear the same?
Bullcr*p. Don't listen to idiots.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I've had a few people tell me to get rid of the red Dex-cool and go back to good ol fashioned green Prestone. I've heard the Dex-cool is very corosive. Anybody hear the same?
I use to work at oreilly auto parts and i hear that all the time but never saw any proof would also hear that you dont wanna mix it but once again never saw the proof
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:07 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Did a lil reading they say mixing it will cause a brown sludge but do use distilled water instead of tap watter to mix it or just buy it premixed
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Just stick with Dex-Cool and buy the premixed. GM did have some issues with the DC when they first started using it. But to the best of my knowledge, all issues were corrected. This is what they designed the car for, stick with what they use.
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