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My diy fix for no heat/overheating engine

24K views 22 replies 13 participants last post by  Robotech 
#1 · (Edited)
peace out.
 
#2 ·
I've got the same problem so I'd love to do this, but I have a few questions for clarification:

Was the engine hot or cold?
Which hose were you squeezing? Could you take a picture of it with you pointing at it or circle it in Paint or something to make it dummy-proof for future forum dwellers?
Was the coolant cap on or off during this squeezing?
 
#9 ·
I'm keeping this thread semi new. Today I had to use GSs videos to get an air bubble out. Normally I don't see over 199, and hit 237 at Braums last night. So this morning i did the squeeze lock method as I'm calling it, and it worked fantastic. I had to WORK to get the car up to 199, even idling it would ony briefly touch it and go back to 192-196. This is a very simple method for getting little air bubbles out until such time the valves are installed. My 5 years is almost up on the coolant so I will be installing the valves when changing the coolant. Using the tomatosoup method with the pump for filling, and finishing off with this method to fine tune the bubbles out.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Still Overheating

I tried the fix that you described here and it worked great... But...when the air temperature is below freezing, the condition arises again.

I had a thought today about this and was wondering...

On the overflow reservoir... If I remove the compression fitting and rubber hose on the overflow inlet , insert a tight fitting, smaller diameter tube down into the liquid, and reattach the rubber hose and compression fitting, would this eliminate the condition? I think it would, as it would block air from being sucked back into the engine block. You all seem to have experienced the issue more than I.

What cha think?

EB
 
#6 ·
My Sky was reaching 240 at lunch today so I went home and Googled temp problems on Sky and Sol.
I found this thread and I watched the videos, man I have to say it worked right away like a charm.
Thank you so much for your help!!!
 
#11 ·
I'm glad someone brotched this subject for me because as someone who is not super mechanically inclined (yes I've changed a radiator and do oil changes myself sometimes). I was wondering when I was driving before what the temp should be. I'm used to a gauge telling me its hot or cold... not a temp readout. So I'm guessing the 220ish I've seen is high from what I'm reading here and I need to try this method of getting the air out...
 
#12 ·
Glad to see my particular skill set is still helping others. :rofl:

I am planning on having the check valves installed on both of our Skys when we do our first coolant changes. We haven't had any issue with either car since I purged the air out of both. But I am thinking it would still be a good preventative measure to take, and the time to do it is during a coolant flush. :thumbs:
 
#14 ·
I don't have the videos but the process is fairly simple. You have to detach your overflow tank from the bracket. I think there is one 10mm screw and one of those Plastic push in retainers holding it in.

If you trace back the rubber overflow tube from where it attaches to the side of the tank, along in front of the brake booster (big round black thing that looks like someone stuck a cake pan up against your firewall) towards the rear of the engine on the driver's side then up along the intake manifold towards the front of the engine on the driver's side you'll see where it clamps to the head of the engine.

What you want to do is disconnect this overflow hose from the engine head and leave it sitting next to the nipple it pushes onto. Be sure to leave the clamp on the hose but move it far enough up the hose so that you can put the hose back on the nipple without the clamp interfering.

Now raise the overflow tank above your head until coolant starts coming out of that nipple (with a small air bubble in the system this shouldn't take long). When the water starts coming out smoothly, immediately (and without lowering the overflow tank), push the rubber overflow hose back on the nipple. Don't worry about getting the clamp on it right now, just get the hose on the nipple.

Once it's on, you can lower the overflow tank and then put the overflow hose clamp back in it's proper position. Fill your overflow tank to the proper level if it dropped and then reattach it to the bracket using the plastic push in retainer and bolt you removed earlier.

It's a fairly straightforward process but it may take you a couple times doing this to get a pesky air bubble out of the system.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Hooking up a mighty vac, to the line going into the overflow, and pumping, is a lot simpler. But yes you need to own a mighty vac.

EDIT NOT A MIGHTY VAC - though it would work, a much simplier Multi-Use transfer pump works.
 
#18 ·
Hooking up a mighty vac, to the line going into the overflow, and pumping, is a lot simpler. But yes you need to own a mighty vac.
Since I will never be satisfied with the number of specialty tools I have at my disposal, is there any one model of Mighty Vac you recommend?
 
#20 ·
OH ****, yup TS is right, it was his suggestion I followed. I had to go to Harbor Freight and buy another one, cause my kid stole the first one to use to pump water out of the pole vault pit. http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html

Robo, I don't know what version of the Mighty Vac I have, actually never could get it to work for brake bleeds. I guess I was trying to think I finally got some use out of it, but nope it was the cheapo harbor freight pump. the pipe diameters mate up perfect its a really quick job with this pump.
 
#21 ·
My car was overheating and no heat.. not sure why but right away i thought of the water pump. I went and replaced the water pump, also did the thermostat, went head and did the reservoir cap just in case. I also followed a video om DDM Works on refilling the coolant by raising the reservoir and it didnt work the same as his video. I didnt see any coolant coming from top connection by the engine. Seemed like there was a lot of air in the system. My friend decided to take a look at it and he unplugged one of the hoses and ran the car to see if solid coolant would come out. Once the car was hot, it seemed to be more air than coolant, then finally the coolant started coming out.

Anyways, its still heating up to 218-220 then i shut it down. Im thinking there is air in the system. my friend is suggesting the head gasket (he's scaring me).

I will try this method. So, I just squeeze the big hose, clamp it, then release the hose correct? how would I do it with a vacuum?

Also, the car is on a small slant driveway, would that matter? the front of the car is about 4-6 inches higher than the back. not sure if that would matter when trying to get bubbles out.

Any other tips for me? im hoping its nothing serious like a gasket leak. the car takes about 15-20 mins to overheat. sometimes a half hour.
 
#22 ·
If you can get the Multi-use transfer pump, just unplug the hose as it goes into the overflow attach to multi-use transfer pump, put the out put of the pump into the overflow and start pumping.
 
#23 ·
My car was overheating and no heat.. not sure why but right away i thought of the water pump. I went and replaced the water pump, also did the thermostat, went head and did the reservoir cap just in case. I also followed a video om DDM Works on refilling the coolant by raising the reservoir and it didnt work the same as his video. I didnt see any coolant coming from top connection by the engine. Seemed like there was a lot of air in the system. My friend decided to take a look at it and he unplugged one of the hoses and ran the car to see if solid coolant would come out. Once the car was hot, it seemed to be more air than coolant, then finally the coolant started coming out.

Anyways, its still heating up to 218-220 then i shut it down. Im thinking there is air in the system. my friend is suggesting the head gasket (he's scaring me).

I will try this method. So, I just squeeze the big hose, clamp it, then release the hose correct? how would I do it with a vacuum?

Also, the car is on a small slant driveway, would that matter? the front of the car is about 4-6 inches higher than the back. not sure if that would matter when trying to get bubbles out.

Any other tips for me? im hoping its nothing serious like a gasket leak. the car takes about 15-20 mins to overheat. sometimes a half hour.
Your symptoms are typical of low coolant and/or air in the system.

To check and see if you have a head gasket problem, check your oil. If it looks like chocolate milk, that would be indicative of a head gasket. White smoke from the exhaust could also be coolant getting into the combustion chamber due to a bad head gasket.

Get that system bled, check for leaks, and if everything checks out you should have no more overheating issues unless there is a blockage somewhere in the system (also could be the case like gunk in the radiator restricting flow).
 
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