I am taking in account, insurance safety/liability concerns and parts availability. Once a frame is smashed, like that must be, built in quarter panels welded and molded to the frame.
I would be shocked if they fix that. I hope for your sake Ken, you get what you want, wether totaled or fixed. I cannot believe you have NO neck pain or anything??????? If you do, I see a Mercedes SLK convertible Hardtop in your future!
1) No pain at all Paul- Our seats protect our necks pretty good, the way I sit I was propelled back into headrest.
2) Not really my style - car ugly; What sold me on the Sky was its lines, I really wasn't in the car buying mode when I spotted the Sky on line. So if I have to give it up, probably see if I can get new dresser or the '71 'vette I desire....
I was stopped waiting for traffic (8 -10 cars had already passed with another 8-10 to go before I could turn) to clear so I could make L turn into my usual Fri. night stop(bar)... short screech...BANG--SWEAR--CUSS-- wait for wave of desire to KILL THE DUMB SUMBI**H to pass..
Car that hit me was '99 Lincoln towncar; he was towed away also, bad L front corner damage
That is a shame, sorry about that Ken......
I got rear ended about 4 months ago on the other car just standing waiting for a red light to change green...... His insurance payed but lost the car for a week. They gave me a 2010 SRX Cadillac on loan which I drove to Miami and took advantage of... His insurance payed for the borrowed car and gas.....
She was in front and on top. I was alluding to when Jason and that Honduran guy hit me from behind. Jason was pretty gentle, but Jorge didn't hold back.
I don't think its that bad at all. The Kappa cars have lightly welded tabs for the A arms of the suspension to attach to. All the kappas with signficant front end hits have had the A arms ripped off the frame mounts. It helps dissapate energy from the hit. So the fact the rear wheel is askew is normal for Kappa in my opinion.
So you need a rear quarter panel. The service manual shows how a shop should replace it. they drill out the spot welds and then heat the glue with a heat gun and it comes apart. Reweld the Arm mounts, new rear bumper skin, align everything and you're good to go. Hell the trunk didn't even seem to be affected, and frame - is probably still intact except for the pesky A arm mounts. Cost will not be cheap with all the parts and labor though.
Eh, nothing that a pry bar, a rubber mallet and a couple of rolls of dark green 200-mph duct tape can't fix.
:sorry: to hear about the accident; glad you are OK. Green was my first choice when Steve asked me what color he should order, so I've always liked your car (even with those funky tri-spoke things you call rims).
Maybe if they do total it you can get a salvage title, weld the bottom of a small catamaran to it, rig a prop to the drive-train, and make yourself a sporty little speed boat. People can't believe it's a Saturn on land, image their surprise to see a Saturn cruising the Barnegat Bay. :wtf:
Well maybe others are right and they will fix the car, then you only have to wait the six months for parts. But seriously Ken, I wish the best for you and it is great to hear you feel fine a day later. Sometimes back damage doesn't happen until things start to swell when you rest. Best of Luck, and keep us posted! :cheers:
hopefully it works out. I just lost a car, didn't look too bad, thought I could bend a hinge point and throw 2 doors on her, but as I got into the project it turns out the whole B-pillar is shot.
Ken, I am so Sorry this happened to you, you are one of the nicest people in the MASSC family, You have always treated Lisa and I very well, except for a few A. H.'s ..I hope you can get it fixed or get a new one ASAP!!! Best of LUCK! I would have beaten the ****Z out of the person who did this!!!
So talked w/ins. co. tonite.
rental car tomorrow; car being towed to repair shop tomorrow, awaiting adjuster.
Canton is still possible, remote but possible- all depends on body panels being avalable(sp).
So talked w/ins. co. tonite.
rental car tomorrow; car being towed to repair shop tomorrow, awaiting adjuster.
Canton is still possible, remote but possible- all depends on body panels being avalable(sp).
Talk w/ adjuster this evening, she's going to try and give 30 mins warning before she goes to shop so I can meet her and take pics.
Told her I wanted to take pics while it was on lift, she said they wouldn't necessarily ahve it on lift, I said that was going to be the only way she was going to see what was broke as car is only 4" off ground and RRear suspension is broke so she wasn't that short .
Got rental today Dodge Caliber- oh well its free.
And Di. that is my intention to make Canton and my vacation in rental if Wolverine isn't done yet.
There were no lifts free so the preliminary repair is +$7000.00.
They have to replace tihe diff. 'cuz the axle was pulled out;
I wonder if the probeam and tunnel brace kept the frame straight and the mechanicals took the majority of the damage -
Hoping the frame doesn't need to be straightened.
ANDDD Control Arms, which do not look too heathy either.
Ken, if your frame is straight after that off center blast, that would be an amazing testament to our frame strength. $7,000.00 is not too bad, but without a lift, I am sure it will go up. Keep your fingers crossed!
I guess your insurance will be covering it...but I have an entire rear-end assembly including both sets of A arms minus one of the tie rods that I sold. Its used about 10k or so miles, limited slip. I can't decide if I want the RL or the 2.4 version, but I have both.
The back bumper is plastic, when he hit me the bumper deformed allowing his bumper to impact the flat of the tire with almost full force of his car.
Something had to give - Now what does my pro-beam look like????
The back bumper is plastic, when he hit me the bumper deformed allowing his bumper to impact the flat of the tire with almost full force of his car.
Something had to give - Now what does my pro-beam look like????
I once worked at a body shop and was a Adjuster for several years. The damage does not look too bad, mostly mech and a qtr. The qtr on these vehicles are extremely thin and crumple easily. I would however check that the top fits properly, insist on a frame setup and measure to be sure it is not tweaked and make sure the doors open and close properly. Also since it was not your fault, check on your state laws regarding diminished value. I would have inspected after repairs are done by a independant source to be sure all the damage is properly fixed. It may look good on the outside , but be sure the inner panels are repaired/replaced properly if needed. Make sure the shop doing the paint work has a good painter. Color match is a big issue. Remember the bumper cover may be a slightly different shade that the metal, look at new ones and you can see the difference. Just make sure it is close, should not be too contrasting. Also check for overspray , especially on the undercarriage and top, be sure everything is removed for painting, trim on doors and any other pieces, DO NOT allow them to tape it off. Stop by the shop during the repairs to see what they are doing from time to time, a good shop will always let you see what they are doing, not hiding anything. PM me if you want to discuss anything else.
Kriss, the painter is the one that did my headlites and waterfall- this shop worked on my Tahoe after it was hit.
They are a State Farm (my insurance) prefered provider...:thumbs:
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