Sky horn now sounds like tootsie toy

[RealGomer]

Maybe that high water I hit the other day flooded out the horn but now my Sky's horn is about 50 dB and sounds something Little Tykes would put on one of the plastic tootsie toys. Would I be better off replacing the puppy with one of the Fiamm horns or try to nick a replacement from another Sky? Or maybe just drop a pair of air horns in?

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[Celt03]

The Sky horn is already a Fiamm Low Note - what many of us have done is just add the Fiamm High Note to it. They are only about $15 each.

[saf0775]

Originally Posted by RealGomer

Maybe that high water I hit the other day flooded out the horn but now my Sky's horn is about 50 dB and sounds something Little Tykes would put on one of the plastic tootsie toys. Would I be better off replacing the puppy with one of the Fiamm horns or try to nick a replacement from another Sky? Or maybe just drop a pair of air horns in?

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Saturn horns and water have been deep seeded enemies since the early S-Series. The Ions are well known, in Florida and Washington state for example, for sucking up water from heavy rains. It's like when you get water in your ear from the shower, but this case no q-tip will fix your horn. It's actually blown itself by trying to push the water out of the way.

"He's dead, Jim" comes to mind.

Air horns on a Sky? It's your ride, do what makes you happy. I'd hate to be the tech working in the stall next to your car. We techs have a habit of honking the horns before we pull out of the stall to alert people in the area. An air horn would give me a heart attack for sure!

It's a standard GM horn. Go to the junk yard and yank one out of an Ion or Vue. Bring a 9 volt battery with you, cut the harness a few inches from the connector, hook it up to the battery and check its blow.

$5.00 fix.

[Rob the Elder]

The Sky has a horn? Hmmm wonder why?

[USA Sky]

Originally Posted by Rob the Elder

The Sky has a horn? Hmmm wonder why?

Honk and wave of course....

[RealGomer]

Well, my horn died. It then came back to life for about two weeks. The I must have driven a wood stake into it because it's dead now.
SO, is the FIAMM the best horn or would a WOLO do as well? Since I dive on the Xway every day to & from work I'd really like something that can be heard over that K-Whopper's jake brakes.

[BSRL]

Originally Posted by RealGomer

Well, my horn died. It then came back to life for about two weeks. The I must have driven a wood stake into it because it's dead now.
SO, is the FIAMM the best horn or would a WOLO do as well? Since I dive on the Xway every day to & from work I'd really like something that can be heard over that K-Whopper's jake brakes.

I've got a WOLO Bad Boy horn on mine and it works great!

My Horn Mod

[SteveSky67]

I have two horns, the stock and a freeway blaster, now people will move out of my way... but, they both work fine!

[RealGomer]

It seems one little thing was overlooked. GM uses a proprietary connector between the horn and wiring. Instead of spade connectors it uses post & hole connectors. So crack out your wire cutters and heat shrink tubing.

[gadget]

have both the fiamm and the Wolo badboy. I like the fiamm horns the best for the sky because it takes the Wolo a second to get started up. I put the Wolo on my old truck. and the high and low fiamm horns on the Sky.

You can unplug the connector from the stock horn and solder wires to the contacts so that you can connect any horn.

[RealGomer]

Well, I got a pair of hi-low blasters installed with no soldering or damaging of the original connectors. Sorry I didn't take any pix, but here's what I did. Some of the parts and pieces were leftovers from installing car radios. The electrical parts can be found at Radio Shack or a car parts store.

Parts used: 4 x 1/4" blade connectors (most kits come w/2)
2 x 14 - 16 gauge crimp connectors (mine came with blade connectors)
radio mounting bracket or similar
18" - 24" 14 gauge wire
1/2" washers or like to use as spacers.
black heat shrink tubing
Electrical tape (NOT friction tape)

Cut 14 gauge wire into 4 pieces, around 4" - 5" long. Strip wires on both ends far enough back so copper wire fits into blade connectors.
On one end twist the exposed copper of two wires together. Slip a black heat shrink tubing over the wires and insert into the blade connector that came with the crimp connectors. Slide the tubing over the end of the connector after crimping the connector tight. Use a match, light, hair dryer, whatever to shrink the tubing. Set aside.

Using a razor knife, cut open the protective tube over the car horn wiring harness, exposing about 2" of the wires. (Do NOT strip insulation.) Attach the crimp connectors to the exposed wires at an angle to each other. This makes it easier to attach the blade connectors.

Open the underhood fuse box on the passenger side and remove fuse 60 (Horn). Disconnect the power connector from the OEM horn. You'll need a small blade screwdriver to unlock the connector. Remove the OEM horn and mounting bracket.
Take the radio bracket and place onto the two screws where the horn bracket was. The radio bracket I used had an adjusting hole in one end. Measure the length so the bracket does NOT touch the air intake. Remove the bracket and cut it to length. I just used a pair of pliers and repeatedly bent it.

Wrap the cut end with several layers of tape. This is to protect the air intake and for sound deadening. Place the bracket over the two screws and secure it to the left-hand screw. Attach one horn to the other end of the bracket. Before securing it with a nut, wrap several layers of electrical tape. This is again for sound deadening and to prevent any shorts from the next step. Tighten down the horn to the bracket.

Using the bracket that came with the horn kit, loosely attach the second horn. Place bracket onto right hand screw and determine how many washers or spacers are needed.
Remove the bracket, place the washers / spacers onto the right-hand screw. Attach the second horn to this bracket loosely tightening the nut and place the bracket onto right hand screw. Adjust the horn trumpet position. I placed both of mine to point down. Remove the bracket and tighten the horn to the bracket. Attach the bracket to the right hand screw and tighten down the nut. I included a locking washer next to the nut.

Take the wires previously attached to the blade connectors and connect them to the crimp connectors on the wiring harness. Attach the other ends to the horns, making sure the wires go to the same terminals on the horns.

Check all connections and then reinsert the 10 amp fuse into socket 60. Test the horn. If it works, wrap the original OEM connector in electrical tape for moisture protection. I taped it to the air intake to keep it out of the way. It's a good idea to also tape the crimp connectors. Close the hood and hit the highway.

Hope I didn't forget anything. This method allows you to replace the OEM horns if you like.

[gadget]

That'll work. I didn't cut into the stock harness though. The socket that is on the stock horn will unsnap off of the horn on the back side there is two contacts, I just soldered some wire onto the socket contacts and hooked my horns up to them. then I plugged it back into the harness.

[bob]

I just added a set of Hella Super tones. Their dual horns, with 500 & 300 mgz frequencies. THey sound way better and louder that stock. They do require a relay kit. Its sort of like installing wiring for fog lights. It also makes the car faster.

[BLACK_SKY]

Originally Posted by bob

............... They sound way better and louder that stock. They do require a relay kit. Its sort of like installing wiring for fog lights. It also makes the car faster.

LOL

[Slowbro]

Put one of those musical tune horns in, like la cuaracha. That would be pimp!