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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Transmission Support

Okay, so I have ordered a rebuilt/remanufactured engine. With 110K miles and who knows exactly what is broken inside and where, I decided to get a rebuilt/remanufactured long block with a 3 year warranty, and no time limit to return the core. So from what I have read you need to pull the transmission as there is no support for it; however, the instructions for refilling the transmission with fluid are a bear. So, I would like to leave the transmission in the car with with lines and its components intact, and just pull the engine. I would like to do the same with the AC if I can since it is working good and once you crack it open, all kinds of things can happen, not to mention having to vacuum it, replace the dryer, then fill it, etc.

The question is this: Has anyone tried using a tie-down strap to hold the transmission up? I figure if open the doors and run it around it will hold the transmission up with no problems. As long as I can get to the bell housing bolts and torque converter bolts, it should allow me to just pull the engine by itself.

If anyone has replaced the Sky's engine I'd like to know their thoughts.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 04:41 AM
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Well first off the transmissions in theses car, either manual or automatic, will not loose any fluid when pulling as both are sealed. The easiest way to pull the engine is to remove the engine and transmission as a unit. Once out you can remove the transmission and attach to new engine. Now this is not saying you can't drop the transmission first but it is a bear especially with a manual. I have pulled several units this way with no problem. I am afraid your idea of a strap would make it near impossible to get the two units married back together with out a lot of work. Even though it sounds like a lot of work, remove the front bumper cover and supports, remove the radiator and ac condenser and the unit will come straight out and back in.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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So are there quick disconnects on the oil cooler lines to the transmission that prevents the fluid from leaking out? And how about the torque converter? Removing the radiator will cause a major leak in transmission fluid and from the quick look at the service manual, refilling the automatic transmission is like it was on the TH350 or even the 700R4.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoosier GXP View Post
Even though it sounds like a lot of work, remove the front bumper cover and supports, remove the radiator and ac condenser and the unit will come straight out and back in.
Actually Hoosier, compared to the GP, your description makes it sound like a cake walk.


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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 09:18 AM
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I'm changing my engine out also. Why can't you place a jack under the trany to hold it in place?
I've done this with other cars.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 11:54 AM
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I changed out motor. 2.4 automatic.
Remove:
Hood
Radiator fan
All needed wiring hoses etc.
Alternator
Intake and
Exhaust manifolds
Starter

Remove but leave hoses attached:
Power streeing
Air conditioner

Place jack stand under transmission.
(There is enough of a lip to place jack on extending past the cover)
Unbolt trans. And hrmonic balancer
Unbolt engine mount from frame mounts
Lift out engine.
Now remove engine mounts from frame.

Install:
Set engine in with engine mounting brackets resting on frame.
Remove engine lift
Place rolling jack under engine
Jack up until same hight as transmission
Roll back to match up
Install trans bolts and harmonic balancer.
Now jack up engine/trans just enough to slide left and right engine frame mounts back in.
Didn't need to remove bumper either.
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