Turbo Problem

LicketySplit · 10-20-2012, 03:11 PM

I haven't been on this site for quite awhile. I have a 2007 Redline. It has 33,600 miles. I am now out of my waranty, however, I had this problem before my warranty ran out and took it in to the dealer. I have had it in several times and they can't find the problem.

My turbo goes in and out as I am driving. For a while it runs fine. I had the GMPP Tune about three years ago. Sometimes when I push the throdle down I only get up to 5 PSI - when working properly I get up to 19 PSI. Many times as I am crusing on the highway the engine will juump in and out of the turbo so that the car will act like it is cutting in and out. Sometimes as I am running at a steady speed (say 60 mph) you can see the PSI jumping up and down while I am holding the throdle steady. Sometimes the engine light will come on while that is happening - other times the engine light doesn't come on.

When I take it to the dealer they can't seem to make it happen. However, the last time they told me that the reason the engine light is on is related to the turbo but they can't make it do it while they have the car.

Sometimes if I stop, turn the engine off and then restart the car the turbo is back on.

I am affraid when it is going in and out of the turbo that it may also be hurting the transmission?? It seems to me that it is probably in the electrical system or the computer chip (chips).

I am not much of a technical person. I can't continue to drive the car any distance for fear of damaging something. I also believe GM is responsible since I took the car in for this problen prior to the warranty running out.

Maybe someone has an answer. I apprciate any thoughts or advice any of you may have.

TomatoSoup · 10-20-2012, 04:00 PM

Actual turbo problems are usually evidenced by oil getting into the intake (excessive oil use and/or smoke) or dentist-drill sounds.

What it sounds like you have is a boost problem. That can be many things, but the causes I've seen most often reported are either busted intake tube clamps and tube slippage. Or, ballooned/busted intercooler. Usually these result in OBD codes and the ECM, detecting the reduced - or weird - boost levels, will cut back to failsafe (nanny) mode, reducing max boost to 5psi or so.

I'm thinking, due to the intermittent nature of your problem, you've got the worn clamp issue. It's not holding the rubber tubes tight and letting 'bubbles' of boost-pressure air escape. Search the forum (or use google) for DDM clamp kit threads. (DDM clamp page)

See these for more info:
boost reading 0 and cel - Pontiac Solstice Forum
NEED: (Pics added) How to change the stock clamps to T-Bolt clamps please?

OldmansSky · 10-20-2012, 04:01 PM

I never see anything other than 0 unless the engine is under strain. I know it goes up to 23psi on a good incline and I see a few lbs if I'm ragging around the parkway but I have never seen it "jump in and out of the turbo". This could happen with an automatic trans shifting in and out of overdrive or the torq conv lockup switching on and off or even a foot resting on the brake pedal.

Bogie · 10-20-2012, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LicketySplit

However, the last time they told me that the reason the engine light is on is related to the turbo but they can't make it do it while they have the car.

What is the code or codes?

Have the hoses and clamps been ruled out?
Intercooler connect?

LicketySplit · 10-20-2012, 08:35 PM

At one point they replaced the air intake tube - they said a nipple broke off the tube causing malfunction of the sensor code vacuum leak - that is what is wrttten on the invoice. It ran good for awhile until it didn't. The last time they had no clue!

I'm going to take your comments in to the dealership with the car. I appreciate all your thoughts.

The codes on the last invoice were: P0236, P2227, P0106, P0101, P2178
14786 CPGM

Bogie · 10-20-2012, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LicketySplit

At one point they replaced the air intake tube - they said a nipple broke off the tube causing malfunction of the sensor code vacuum leak - that is what is wrttten on the invoice. It ran good for awhile until it didn't. The last time they had no clue!

I'm going to take your comments in to the dealership with the car. I appreciate all your thoughts.

The codes on the last invoice were: P0236, P2227, P0106, P0101, P2178
14786 CPGM

First four:
Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Performance
Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Performance
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Performance
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Performance

I'm not a tech, but my educated guess would be you've got a leak somewhere in turbo air flow path. Multiple sensors measuring the flow or pressure are triggering. Strongly suggests the flow isn't nominal, which would occur if you have a leak. Again just a non-tech educated guess.

08BlueSky · 10-22-2012, 11:50 AM

Concur with OldmansSky, Only time I see Boost is when I’m “on-it”.

I’m surprised no one mentioned to check the GMPP “Crimp” Connectors

For they are prone to make bad connections??
Folks are soldering them instead?

SaturnSkyDude · 10-22-2012, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08BlueSky

Concur with OldmansSky, Only time I see Boost is when I’m “on-it”.

I’m surprised no one mentioned to check the GMPP “Crimp” Connectors

For they are prone to make bad connections??
Folks are soldering them instead?

I myself have read a lot of threads on the poorly connected sensor wires for the GMPP Turbo Upgrade Kit. From what I can see most if not all of your issues appear as a result of poorly connected sensors (2) when they were installed. The best fix is to solder the wires and shrink wrap them or purchase the harness to connect the sensors without splicing and soldering wires. Let us know when you get this figured out.

Elff · 10-23-2012, 11:45 AM

It's the connectors for the 3 bar Bosch sensors.

The dealers use Aluminum butt connectors to connect Copper wires.
They also do a bad install.

Remove those butt connectors, solder and heat shrink wrap the wires and your problem will go away.

**lorennerol** · 10-23-2012, 12:30 PM

I had the same problem. It was the crappy clamps on the intercooler tubes. Replaced, problem gone.

This problem can also be caused by loose/faulty electrical connections after the GMPP tune is installed.

But if you haven't already, change out the clamps.

Edit to add: The dealership was baffled by my problems as well. For better and worse, we know more about these cars than the dealers.

**Ahnuld** · 12-21-2012, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LicketySplit

At one point they replaced the air intake tube - they said a nipple broke off the tube causing malfunction of the sensor code vacuum leak - that is what is wrttten on the invoice. It ran good for awhile until it didn't. The last time they had no clue!

I'm going to take your comments in to the dealership with the car. I appreciate all your thoughts.

The codes on the last invoice were: P0236, P2227, P0106, P0101, P2178
14786 CPGM

what was the outcome?