The Ksports come packaged nicely, and have a bag with a bunch of unnecessary and necessary parts. Look through the manual and read the warnings and tips... however they are a bit generic for all types of applications at once.
Measure and record your stock height by using a flat ruler across the top of the tire, and another ruler vertically against the fender arch. My stock height was 50mm front, and 67mm rear, yours will vary.
1. Inspect the new shocks to make sure you have all the corners, they are marked with the label on the top of the shock tower.
2. Unscrew the adjustable bottom parts off, and mark off the 30mm minimum thread engagement with a metal pen (silver sharpie will work). You cannot raise the car higher than this mark.
3. Make sure the 2 upper locking collars are snug to the spring, but with no preload (meaning the spring can still rotate independent of the shock body).
4. Lock the 2 upper collars against each other using the supplied wrenches, you won't be touching these again. Mark the thread on the shock body and collar to inspect later to see if they are loose.
5. Put dielectric grease on the shaft of the adjusters, and all around at the top under the plastic knob to make sure dirt and water doesn't get in.
5a. Turn the adjuster knobs clockwise until they stop (mine were set at 3 ticks below full stiff, and thats a good starting point. Back them off 3 ticks (softer).
6. Using a metal pen or silver sharpie, mark a long line in a thread at 30mm for the fronts, and 50mm for the rears.
6a. The front lower mount point will go in to 30mm (or more if you want the car lower, but you can adjust that later). This will be about a 15mm drop from stock height.
6b. The rear will go in to 50mm (I adjusted even lower once the shock was mounted, but this is a good starting point). This mark will be about a 20mm drop from stock height, and will reduce the stock rake to be more even.
7. Place some anti-seize and thread the lower mount points back on to the marks you put in respectively.
Mount the shocks, lower the car, and measure. If you have to adjust, raise the front or rear, mark the shock body so you can count half turns. Each half turn seems to be about 1.5mm.
Always rotate the shock body using the two locking collars and the supplied wrenches. You want to use the upper or lower collar to make the body thread in (lower) or out (raise). Make sure to think about which way the wrench will tighten each collar to each other and use that motion.
Once you are satisfied with the right height, use a flat head screw driver and tap with a hammer to lock the lower locking collar (not the ones holding the spring). You don't want to use the wrench to lock the "jamb nut" action on this ring. Mark the locking ring with the sharpie against the threads to make sure it's not moving during later inspections.
The adjusters can stay in the shock (remember the grease). You can just reach them in the rear wheel well, and for the fronts you can easily adjust from inside the engine bay. You can't easily remove any of them except for the drivers front.
For now, I'm at:
Before (stock wheel to fender gap)
3 ticks less than full stiff.
Corner weights after lowering, lightened battery, and lighter wheels (53% front / 47% rear):
Front Drivers = 830lbs
Front Passenger = 820lbs
Rear Drivers = 730lbs
Rear passenger = 725lbs
Total weight with me in the car, 1/4 tank of gas, 3105lbs.
Doesn't scrape on my driveway, but I may be raising it a little down the road.