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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Coolant in Oil | Engine Replacement

Last week I was sitting at a red light when I looked down at my coolant temp and it was 230 degrees. The light turned green and I went to pull into a gas station. As soon as I started moving the temperature went back down to normal range and the low coolant message appeared. I added some water drove home and started checking for leaks but couldn't find any. I kept adding coolant for a couple of days trying to find a leak but couldn't. At this point I checked the oil and it was chocolate milk. I thought it was a head gasket so I did a compression test and all 4 cylinders read just under 150 psi. After that I checked the turbo and the water pump area for signs of coolant and oil mixing but found none.

After reading multiple threads on this forum, the Solstice forum, and the Cobalt SS forum I believe that my engine has the porous block problem and has cracked. I ordered a new long block from ZZP and it was shipped yesterday. I read about Robo, Sky Pilot, and others dealing with them and things not turning out well. Due to this I opted not to have them swap the LNF head on the Gen III block and I will just deal with whatever issues arise with installing a FWD LDK/LHU in a Kappa. I also ordered through Ebay and paid with Paypal, so I should be able to get my money back if there are any problems.

Link to the for sale ad.
www.ebay.com/itm/111144122862
The total cost for the long block and shipping was $2,150.

I will start the process of pulling the engine out of the car sometime next week and will keep this thread updated.
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08 Carbon Flash Redline 5 Speed
LDK long block. DDM Works clutch kit, brace bundle, oil catch can and SS brake lines. Stoptech Sport pads with ATE Type 200 fluid. Fujita intake and charge tubes. Gutted stock downpipe. Tuned with HP Tuners.

Last edited by KappaTarbo; 10-18-2017 at 10:40 AM.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 12:37 PM
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Damn KappaTarbo, I didn't know that was YOU I was talking to on FB about this! I am the one that PM'd you about ZZP and the issues with ordering parts from them. LOL

So sucks to hear this (again LOL) but I look forward to seeing how things go with your rebuild.

You know, someone mentioned that the water pump may fail and introduce coolant to the oil. Maybe you could test this theory by removing the front cover of the engine, firing it up, and see if water is coming out of the front of the water pump and into the front of the engine normally covered by the cover. To run it for a few seconds isn't going to do any more damage than you're already fixing I don't think.


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Last edited by Robotech; 10-18-2017 at 12:41 PM.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KappaTarbo View Post
...I checked the oil and it was chocolate milk.
Damn...That's ugly
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
Maybe you could test this theory by removing the front cover of the engine, firing it up, and see if water is coming out of the front of the water pump and into the front of the engine normally covered by the cover. To run it for a few seconds isn't going to do any more damage than you're already fixing I don't think.
Sounds like an interesting idea. the oil pump is mounted inside the front cover so there won't be any oil movement. But since I'm replacing the engine anyway it won't matter. I think I might try and add some UV dye to the coolant because it would be easier to see then.

08 Carbon Flash Redline 5 Speed
LDK long block. DDM Works clutch kit, brace bundle, oil catch can and SS brake lines. Stoptech Sport pads with ATE Type 200 fluid. Fujita intake and charge tubes. Gutted stock downpipe. Tuned with HP Tuners.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 01:14 PM
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Yea, just to see if it's coming from the water pump. Like you said, engine is getting replaced anyway, might be worth it to see if there is any merit to the claim.


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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 03:13 PM
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Before you pull the engine, pull the high pressure fuel pump and check it and the port into the block. There are documented cases of the HPFP having a "soft" failure where it still pumps normally but the oil seal on the bottom fails and it allows gas to flow into the oil pan through the drive mating hole.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob the Elder View Post
Before you pull the engine, pull the high pressure fuel pump and check it and the port into the block. There are documented cases of the HPFP having a "soft" failure where it still pumps normally but the oil seal on the bottom fails and it allows gas to flow into the oil pan through the drive mating hole.
Did you post this on the wrong thread, Rob? He's got coolant in the oil, not gas.

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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-20-2017, 08:33 PM
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I hate to add to the expense, but you'll want a new radiator too, and be sure to flush the heck out of everything to clean out the heater core as good as you can.

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
Yea, just to see if it's coming from the water pump. Like you said, engine is getting replaced anyway, might be worth it to see if there is any merit to the claim.
I ran the car for about 15 seconds and there where no leaks coming from the water pump area. This could be happening to other engines I guess, but it isn't what happened to mine.

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Originally Posted by VinnieRL View Post
I hate to add to the expense, but you'll want a new radiator too, and be sure to flush the heck out of everything to clean out the heater core as good as you can.
I'm curious why you think the radiator should be replaced. I had planed on flushing out the radiator, heater core, and coolant hoses and reusing them.



I purchased the engine from the ZZP ebay ad on Friday 10/13. The engine was picked up by the freight truck on Tuesday 10/17. It was delivered to my house on Friday 10/20. It got to me sooner than I expected.

The long block was shipped on a pallet. A wooden base was made with 2x4 blocks that were screwed to each other and to the pallet. The 3 straps wrapped over the engine and under the pallet to hold it in place.

Looks like I got lucky and didn't encounter any issues.
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08 Carbon Flash Redline 5 Speed
LDK long block. DDM Works clutch kit, brace bundle, oil catch can and SS brake lines. Stoptech Sport pads with ATE Type 200 fluid. Fujita intake and charge tubes. Gutted stock downpipe. Tuned with HP Tuners.
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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The engine came with more parts attached to it than I expected. Coils, cam solenoids, oil cooler, oil filter cap, and even lifting hooks.

I went ahead and started removing parts from the engine to get it ready to be pulled. Still a long way to go though.
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08 Carbon Flash Redline 5 Speed
LDK long block. DDM Works clutch kit, brace bundle, oil catch can and SS brake lines. Stoptech Sport pads with ATE Type 200 fluid. Fujita intake and charge tubes. Gutted stock downpipe. Tuned with HP Tuners.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 07:01 PM
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I should have been more specific, thank you for questioning it as I forgot I replied. If you find oil in the cooling system it usually causes a sludge like substance that can't be flushed out of the radiator and heater core. If the coolant is oil free, you're good to go.

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 02:13 PM
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Glad to hear you got everything in good condition and as you ordered it. IF you wind up needing to replace the radiator, I suggest going with one of the larger radiators that are offered through some of the vendors. Our coolant system is JUST adequate enough for what it has to do on the turbo cars. If you're replacing it, might as well go with something that does the job better.


V.A.L. (#1108)
2007 2.4 Base
MagnaFlow dual outlet, quad tip exhaust test car
**Sold**

Max (#1547)
2007 TURBO 2.4
Too much to list here. See my Garage for details.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KappaTarbo View Post
www.ebay.com/itm/111144122862
The total cost for the long block and shipping was $2,150.
Why is this thing so cheap?

2008 Solstice gxp
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by shabby View Post
Why is this thing so cheap?
Uhm...cheap? Do you mean when compared to dealer prices? For a stock, rebuilt long block that seems about right.


V.A.L. (#1108)
2007 2.4 Base
MagnaFlow dual outlet, quad tip exhaust test car
**Sold**

Max (#1547)
2007 TURBO 2.4
Too much to list here. See my Garage for details.
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
Glad to hear you got everything in good condition and as you ordered it. IF you wind up needing to replace the radiator, I suggest going with one of the larger radiators that are offered through some of the vendors. Our coolant system is JUST adequate enough for what it has to do on the turbo cars. If you're replacing it, might as well go with something that does the job better.
My PAW one is a quality product they have made at another location. I'd see what the lead time is on it though. It set my rebuild back no fewer than 6 weeks waiting on it to get here.

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Werks I/C, Rad, Backbone & Swaybars
reBar
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MF Catback
Solo Race Pipe
3bar MAP w/ ZZP Tune
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