DDMWorks Charge Pipes Install (chirp noise, no boost) - Saturn Sky Forums: Saturn Sky Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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DDMWorks Charge Pipes Install (chirp noise, no boost)

Hey all,

Really hoping someone can help with this as I'm at a total loss. I am not entirely certain the charge pipes are to blame or if I've had some other untimely failure hence the post here. Here's the the full story just in case it is helpful:

The car is Trifecta tuned. Everything was working correctly before I started the install and the boost gauge worked (I keep the car set on it for fun of course) and the car had all the power promised by the tune of course.

I installed the DDM Works charge pipes and reached the final step where you re-insert the hose but the hole was not threaded (a defect during production) and I chose to order a tap and thread the hole myself, which was successful and I have a tight fit with the hose. During the week before I had time to get the hole threaded, the car sat outside in some cold, rain and wind.

It also turns out I apparently left one of the interior lights on the entire time and drained the battery. So when I tried to start the car after this install, it of course would not. Attempting to revive the battery with a charger as I usually do failed, got the bad battery indicator, and this meant I had to do the (horrible) battery install. I did this as well, and the car starts and runs again. If the detail matters, the car was dead enough with the bad battery to lose track of time and (I think) do that ECM reset where it runs the checks when it regains power.

However, the car feels off as if I did something horribly wrong, or some other part/thing has failed during this install. I get 0 PSI boost, makes a horrible sound even when driving at slow speeds, and if you pop the hood there is a chirping noise as well (and no I'm not referring to the ticking sound you'd expect). The first minute or so of the video covers this, and then end has the chirping sound with the hood open.

Given the limitations of the forum on images and video I've included a dropbox link with high res video and images of the entire install (even the battery I selected) as I think that'd be better. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm also going to reach out to DDMWorks' tech support line but I honestly don't believe there's anything wrong with the pipes or how I installed it and that something else untimely has happened.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5kuky51re...WTY6ROS_a?dl=0

2009 Red Line
Black Ext/Red Int
Trifecta Tune
DDMWorks CAI
DDMWorks Backbone
DDMWorks Charge Tubes
Yonaka Exhaust Tips
LED Lighting all the way around.
Opel GT Antenna
Fuel Pump Insulator Upgrade
Anker Roav Viva (Alexa in-car)

Last edited by blasterv; 10-18-2018 at 07:17 PM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 08:12 PM
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Sounds like a slipping belt to me.
Since you just changed pipes, I would do a boost leak test. That would let you know if any of the locations with the T-Bolt clamps is leaking as well as the vacuum line on the drive side IC pipe and the tmap sensor on that pipe.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I guess I'll take the car in to have the belt looked at. The thing about the pipes (and perhaps this is my own lack of understanding) is that if there were a small leak somewhere I'd expect not to get full boost pressure, but the fact that it reads out as zero is what's weird/alarming to me.

2009 Red Line
Black Ext/Red Int
Trifecta Tune
DDMWorks CAI
DDMWorks Backbone
DDMWorks Charge Tubes
Yonaka Exhaust Tips
LED Lighting all the way around.
Opel GT Antenna
Fuel Pump Insulator Upgrade
Anker Roav Viva (Alexa in-car)
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 09:17 AM
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Is that on the DIC or a third party gauge?

Some simple things you could do.
Unplug the sensor on the drivers side IC Pipe
Replug it in.

I have has those not lock sometimes and if the pins are not touching fully the car might not be gettinh a signal from it.

Do the same thing for the second tmap sensor that located on top of the intake manifold.

Have someone rev the engine and hold your hand need the sensor and vacuum line to see if you can feel air leaking
And/or put soapy water around those to see if it bubbles
The O-ring on that sensor should be very tight in the hole for the IC pipe to make sure it doesnt leak.

Good luck.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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DIC. I have no third party gauges/electronics hooked up to the car other than a dash cam (only adding that detail in case it helps narrow things down). I did try unplugging the sensor in the pipe and then plugging it back in, same with the plug that goes into it, before your post as that was part of my own sanity check. But I'll do it again and add in the troubleshooting steps you mentioned as well. Is there any means of safely "cleaning" the sensor/plug in case that really is the issue? Just wondering if there's something I can do here beyond unplugging/replugging. I'll also make sure things are tightened all the way. It may take me awhile to follow up on this as I'll probably take the car in for the belt replacement first just to be safe. Thanks again for all your help.

2009 Red Line
Black Ext/Red Int
Trifecta Tune
DDMWorks CAI
DDMWorks Backbone
DDMWorks Charge Tubes
Yonaka Exhaust Tips
LED Lighting all the way around.
Opel GT Antenna
Fuel Pump Insulator Upgrade
Anker Roav Viva (Alexa in-car)
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 09:09 PM
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My thinking is that it's all related to the installs and not something major.

First things first, the sound you hear while driving is probably related to the battery install and something rubbing in the wheel well. Double check all over that area, you'll find something wrong.

Second, the chirping again is probably something rubbing the belt from doing the pipes in that area. Check for a wire loom or something out of place that might be rubbing the belt, really get in there while it's running with a light and look for rubbing. You can even look for a shiny area on the belt, of you see one there,s something rubbing on it.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 09:11 PM
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As for no boost, check the elbow at the throttle body, it's a PITA and can be moved out of place by accident. Have you gotten a code yet? P0101, specifically.

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reBar
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 10:10 AM
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I understand you replaced the battery, but check your grounds to make sure they are secure and free from corrosion. This also might be the time to buy yourself a code reader.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 12:38 PM
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I agree with Vinnie, the sound when driving is definitely a wheel rub sound. Changes with speed and stops when the car is stopped. (Or, I guess, it could be a transmission shaft rub.)

The chirping (with hood open) I'm not sure. You need to have someone rev the engine while you are recording. Could well be what Elff said about belts, but changing the engine revs would help confirm/deny.

Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 03:38 PM
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A general rule to troubleshooting problems like this is always inspect the places where things have been changed. For your boost and chirping sound, that's related to you charge pipes. The sound when moving, probably when you worked on the battery. All the tips here are spot on I would just say to focus on those areas where you were working in when installing these parts or working with the battery.


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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 11:53 PM
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Since I've been considering this same product, I'm interested in what you find out as the cause of the issue.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blasterv View Post
It also turns out I apparently left one of the interior lights on the entire time and drained the battery. So when I tried to start the car after this install, it of course would not. Attempting to revive the battery with a charger as I usually do failed, got the bad battery indicator, and this meant I had to do the (horrible) battery install. I did this as well, and the car starts and runs again. If the detail matters, the car was dead enough with the bad battery to lose track of time and (I think) do that ECM reset where it runs the checks when it regains power.
That can't be right, according to my owner's manual, even if you leave one of your lights on, they will shut off automatically after 20 minutes (page 3-15), so you must have something else draining your battery.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Sky_Pilot View Post
That can't be right, according to my owner's manual, even if you leave one of your lights on, they will shut off automatically after 20 minutes (page 3-15), so you must have something else draining your battery.
Yeah, I'm thinking it was just that the battery died - coincidental with the other changes. Sounds like a shorted cell.

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for taking so long to post a reply, life got busy all of a sudden. Thank you all for the responses/tips. For the battery I'm not really sure what actually "killed" it, but it had been dying for ages and needed a trickle charge every once in awhile, It had lasted like 7 years of year-round use so it was probably past due. I took time today in daylight to go over everything from the beginning.

The biggest change from my original post is that I once again disconnected and reconnected the sensor plug and drove the car around the block to see if the boost gauge would work and that I was getting most/all the boost I should be, and after doing this the gauge started working again and it feels like the car has all the power it should. (I am getting up to 22 PSI before the low traction control warning kicks in, but I figure if I find an abandoned parking lot somewhere and turn off traction I'd get all 23/24)

I tried turning the steering wheel all the way in each direction but the tire is nowhere close enough IMO to have a rub on the side where I changed the battery, and comparing the left and right side they look "the same" distance between the rubber and the wheel well. The sound when speeding up/slowing down is still there, and I also noticed (though this was probably there the first time and I just wasn't paying enough attention) is that it feels like ABS is pushing on the brake pedal all the time, and while the brakes do work I don't think I have all the stopping power I should. I did an autocross a few weeks before this project and the car did not see too much use between so perhaps I've worn down the brake pads too far or maybe I did something else during this project that is causing ABS to activate when it shouldn't.

Anyway, hopefully this helps narrow things down or leads to additional advice. The only obvious next step to me might be to take one of the wheels off, open the caliper, and check the pads. But I don't see how that would be causing the ABS behavior, just the potentially weaker stopping power.

Last edited by blasterv; 10-30-2018 at 03:46 PM.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 04:20 PM
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A damaged wire from one of the wheel-speed sensors (aka wheel bearings) would cause ABS issues.

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