I have used the grey, not the black, and I am not sure what the difference is.

The suggestion that TS made about using the soldering iron is also very good, and I think it depends on the mechanics of what you are trying to attach.
The soldering iron is going to allow you to flare one piece out to mechanically wedge it into another, but I have not had a lot of success in welding two pieces together.
On the other hand, the solvent weld requires a reasonable amount of surface area to provide a strong joint, so you may need a piece of ABS to form a splice.

When I recovered my inserts, I completely removed them. They snap off quite easily and quickly once you get the first one off. I did not want to reglue or try to melt the plastic as I was looking for way to remove them again if I had to. I didn't think to take pictures of my repair method but I wished I had. I basically took the studs on the insert and flattened the top just a bit and drilled a small pilot hole in the middle of the studs. Then I put the panel back in, lined the studs up to the broken out holes and secured the panel by screwing in a spring clip into the pilot holes in the insert studs. The spring clip spans the broken hole and the spring in the clip pulls the insert into the panel nice & tight. I can take a picture of the clip I'm talking about if you want, but I'm not going to remover the panel again. lol

No need to remove panel. I am picturing what you did. It sounds like a very good method.

I have been Youtube-ing the heck out of videos on ABS glue. It turns out Acetone will melt ABS plastic. You just shave off some ABS from a Lego of all things into an small non-ABS plastic or glass container. The acetone will melt the plastic into a glue-like consistency depending upon how much of each ingredient you use. That mixture, when applied to what you want glued, will melt all components and it will "set" fairly quickly.

I do feel better now knowing the many options I have. Seeing as how I know several welds are broken I will have to do something.

I have a fair amount of experience with my 3D printer, using acetone as you describe. It sounds easier than it can turn out. If you have to use glue, then I'd suggest springing for the correct stuff.

HOWEVER, before you go that route, please check that the inner (padded) panel *is* actually ABS. I have a strong feeling that that panel is nylon. Try some nail polish remover (or pure acetone if you already have it) and rub some into the back of the panel, see if it 'smears'. Pretty sure the outer panel is solventable (is that a word?) like John said, but I'd check the inner one first.

Will do TS.

I will have to finish breaking the rest of the factory welds to remove that leather inner panel so I can dye the top of the door panel.

I sure the heck wished I could just buy new panels. The LH is not producing itself anywhere! I can get the RH panel in blue or red stitching

Think I saw on a recent episode of Wheeler Dealers this past year, where Mike took a front nose splitter from a Mazda RX 7 (?)
in for a heat seam treatment welding of plastic/abs parts together. What looked like a soldering iron was used, light sanding then respray.

Once you finish your repairs, dye your pieces, re-install everything and are satisfied, the faded out look gone from view then what?
The sun will beat down on this part again, fading it over time, like all cars get when out in the elements?

Windshield sun shade blocker/silver foil for the front windshield, but what about the side windows, the top of the panel exposed to UV rays?
IF your car sits for awhile out in the sun, you might want to think about, a DYI project to protect this newly dyed panel from
more sun fade in the future? Buy an extra big sunshade for a truck windshield, cut this down to fit, into your side windows as extra added protection to your investment and hard work you have put in re-dying your door panels?

Under a car cover, in a garage, under a shaded area when parked will help with the UV fade to plastic parts, but if that is not an option then the cheap fix to the UV fade would be one of these foil shades for both the drivers side/passenger side windows.
I have seen this used in the Marine industry for boat portholes to keep heat/light out of the interior cabin.
It might work for your fading door panels?
Less costs, less work X2, less fade.

LAC

Did you see this?: https://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f...ml#post1300841

Yeppers thanks I saw that but I plan on dyeing mine if I can't get brand new ones. Nothing wrong with mine just faded.

@stungjoe, I was just reminded by another thread (slaps head)... the majority of panels in our car - including the doors - are polypropylene, NOT ABS. So solvent glues will not work. In fact most, if not all, glues will not stick to polypropylene, or not very well anyway.

So the re-melt or screw methods are your only choice, I'm afraid.

You are certainly correct about the door probably not being ABS. Smooth parts tend to be ABS (gearshift surround, piano black parts, etc) but textured parts, according to the spares I have just looked through, are usually either polypropylene (marked PP) or thermoplasic olefin (marked >TPO<). I looked over my door panel but there is so much crap bonded to it that the molding marks appear to be covered. The little box around the door release handle is Nylon 6, but the rest of it appears to be a mystery, at least for now.

I went through our work instructions and found these notes that may help:
>ABS< can be easily bonded with the cement used for ABS pipe. These will mostly be smooth parts
>TPO< Thermoplastic Olefin is most of the textured dashboard parts. I have used 3M ScotchWeld DP8005 and LocTite 3030
GM PP 033 is polypropylene and we use Loctite 401 Prism Instant Adhesive with 770 Prism Primer. I have been told that you can use other superglues if you first use a primer or flame treat the surface, but no one seems to have actual experience with that.
>PA6< Polyamide 6 (Nylon) Also works well with Loctite 401 but doesn't need the primer

Or, as you note, there is always heat and/or screws,

Probably why they melted them at the factory. I'm digging the spring nut idea at the moment but will have to get the panels back off when I can.

JohnWR Thanks for the markings breakdown! I will look for the markings to confirm as I will indeed have to remove that "crap" to get at the welds. I hate to remove that "carpeting" insulation, noise reducer...whatever it is. Shame as it's in pristine condition.

Actually they melted it in place because it is cheaper, faster, less trouble, more reliable, and doesn't involve chemicals that require paperwork and that expire and have to be disposed of.

Don't try to peel the insulation, use a straight-edge razor blade or paint scraper to shave it off.

Oh no! Me and sharp objects...haha I might just buy that passenger side off of Ebay and save half the hassle of this project.

On a side note, since I know you have a Carbon Flash, I had this youngling (details cars trying to work his way through college) clean up my car and whatever he used on the grey inserts in the seats REALLY cleaned them up well. I never seen them this clean. I know you're not a fan(as I am not) of that two tone color scheme but at least now it's clean again.

EDIT: I just thought about this; I am SO glad they didn't use grey inserts in the door!

Yeah, I don't particularly like it, but it would be nice to have it clean. If you can find out what he used ......

Something akin to the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser pads but like ultra fine. He got them from a detailing supply place. He said they were like 3000 grit. I was afraid it would be too abrasive but the grains in the leather stood out when he was finished. He then conditioned the leather and it's really soft and smells like a new car now.

I will ask him for the brand name.