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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
I love competition! Especially this kind.

@Bpm009 I asked because I am completing the installation of an Atoto A6 Pro, using a custom center panel. Raspberry Pi is a little sportier than I was interested in trying, but I do love the idea.
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Bpm009 View Post
So I do have a challenge if anyone is interested. ........
The installation I posted the picture of is removable without tearing down the dash.

The panel above the radio is removable from the front with no other disassembly. My radio surround is tabbed behind the fascia at the bottom and can be attached to the dashboard support behind that upper panel. To access the radio I pull that upper panel out, and pull it free of the lower tab.
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bpm009 View Post
So I do have a challenge if anyone is interested. My current speed bump is that I want to mount the display to the face of the Double Din mount. I would like to have it removable without having to take apart then entire dash. I've attached pictures of the front and back of the display as well as the Double Din mount you're all probably familiar with. Any ideas? Magnets were my best idea but I'm worried to use anything stronger than magnetic rolls with electronics so close. I didn't get a very good hold because they are weak magnets.

There are (4) M3 screws to be used for mounting on the rear of the display but I can't figure out how to incorporate them in such a way as to be able to remove the screen from the mount. Backup plan is to use the screws to put two flat bars across the back to hold it against the mount frame. Won't be able to remove the screen without dash teardown but much easier solution.
I would suggest (maybe) getting the posts/clips used for speaker grill mounts. Use the screws to attach the 'male' posts to the screen - though I guess you'll have to thread them first. Then use a plate or crossbars for the female pieces to attach to the dash mount (or even, vice-versa).

Something like these (there are many different varieties): https://www.parts-express.com/Search...itesearch=true

More images here: https://www.google.com/search?q=spea...=lnms&tbm=isch

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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 06:32 PM
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I spent the better part of two months experimenting with ways to do this, and unless you cannibalize one of the DIN radios with the front-accessible release, I think you are going to have to scrap the idea of using the DIN mount as it is. It just doesn't give you any way to access what is behind it.

What you can do is cut the mounting flanges off of your mount, then add tabs to retain it behind the panel with the passenger seat indicator and behind the HVAC surround. You might want, or have, to use the flanges to hold it forward, basically captivating it between them and the panels. At that point it will work the way mine does, giving you easy removal of the radio after the HVAC surround is removed.

Here are some additional pictures of what I am doing. I think they are fairly self-explanatory.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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I had no idea the upper panel was removable without tearing into the dash, that opens up options! so it kind of "hooks" in behind the bottom part and then you reach through the disassembled top panel to connect something to hold the upper part of the lower panel? I think I could make something similar using the two lower screw holes on the display for tabs and the two uppers to create some sort of cross bar to hold it behind the display. I'm not actually using the Double Din mount in a traditional sense, just the frame really. The Pi doesn't really have any easy means of attaching to the side mount tabs.

The speaker grill clips I would never have thought of and it's such a simple solution. If the tab and cross bar solution doesn't work I think I'll give this a go. My only concern is finding ones that are still fairly easy to pop out because I can't pull on the display too much. I've never appreciated the ingenuity of a speaker grill until now
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 10:36 PM
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If you look at the second picture you can see the tab that is bonded to the back of the face plate. Then look carefully at that area from the front in the third picture and you can see the tab. The HVAC surround holds it in once it snaps into place.

Actually, if you put something on the back to create some surface area, Velcro is also an option. I am using it to secure my replacement center console.

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Last edited by JohnWR; 06-20-2019 at 10:40 PM.
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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I see what you did. I hadn't thought about having the Pi and faceplate all as one piece but that would work just as well for my situation. I do like how the tab just sits behind the air control panel. How tough was getting the fitment to be snug on top and bottom without and wiggle/rattle?
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 11:37 PM
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The fit of the face plate is tight top to bottom, and actually wedges slightly into place. I don't have any rattles yet, but I am thinking about putting a layer of cloth tape on the front of the tab just in case.

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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Been a little busy with other things over the last week but have had a little progress on the project. I have hit a strange snag tonight in that my output sound is not coming through the car speakers but seems to work fine on my bench speakers. I'm not much of an audio expert but the Raspberry Pi Amp2 should have no problem outputting sound through the car speakers.

For those that may be able to see the issue I'm having here are some specs:

HiFiBerry AMP2: https://www.hifiberry.com/shop/boards/hifiberry-amp2/
60 total Watts on 2 channels to be used with 4 ohm - 8 ohm speakers

Sky Speakers:
Per Crutchfield we have 2 ohm speakers in the doors and 4 ohm speakers in the rear (Non-Monsoon)

I'm not sure if the 2 ohm vs 4-8 ohm range is the issue but I would only think it would effect volume

I have the (4) input wires R Front/Rear and L Front/Rear connected to the 2 channels separating L and R (Stereo)

I do have a couple update pictures to show below
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 06:25 AM
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Are you sure that you are properly connected to the (+) and (-) wires that go to each speaker? I don't know what else would be different.
Even if there was some crazy impedance mismatch you would at least get sound.

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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 09:40 AM
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Just as a check, you DON'T have Monsoon, right?

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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
Just as a check, you DON'T have Monsoon, right?
Good point. The audio connections are the same for the two (except for level) but there is a control connection for the Monsoon amp that has to be connected to power for the amp to power up. No connection, no sound.

Although there is a previous comment that it is not a Monsoon system.

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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 09:50 AM
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Would it matter? The harness connections are the same.
Not sure but I do know that when I had my head unit put in when ordering the adaptor to go from the radio to the factory harness there was one version for a car equipped with the Monsoon system and one for one without it. Something about the factory amp is all I can recall.

This may not even be related to the current discussion but figured I'd throw it in. LOL


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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 10:04 AM
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Just as a check, you DON'T have Monsoon, right?
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Not sure but I do know that when I had my head unit put in when ordering the adaptor to go from the radio to the factory harness there was one version for a car equipped with the Monsoon system and one for one without it. Something about the factory amp is all I can recall.

This may not even be related to the current discussion but figured I'd throw it in. LOL
It wouldn't matter for the audio connections, but a Monsoon system has a connection to turn the amplifier on. So TS has a good point in that if it is Monsoon, and that control connection is omitted, there will be no sound.

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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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No monsoon system in my car. I pulled it all out and retested on the bench, which worked. I plan on rewiring it tonight because mismatched +/- was all I could think of too but it looked like I had everything correct. Thanks for the clarification on the impedance mismatch I was pretty sure but not positive. I am using the GM LAN wire harness and followed the wire labeling on the instructions. Will update tonight.
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