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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-25-2019, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kellysellsrv View Post
First thing would be to verify that you have the correct plugs in it. My 2007 GXP had the cold plugs in it from the factory and it stuttered. 41-108 plugs are the correct plugs... DO NOT TOUCH THE END OF THE PLUG! That will most likely solve the problem. But if you want to upgrade the tune... The engine can handle a lot. Bore the turbo $700, larger charge pipes and cold air $350. 600 hp cooler $500. It will be twice the car you have now.
How difficult is it to change the plugs I don’t mind just replacing them. I have not even looked at this engine and won’t till spring. What do I need to know to change plugs on these cars? I have the 2.0 and have not found any videos for it.

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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-25-2019, 09:57 PM
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How difficult is it to change the plugs I don’t mind just replacing them. I have not even looked at this engine and won’t till spring. What do I need to know to change plugs on these cars? I have the 2.0 and have not found any videos for it.
30 min job max. Take the plastic cover off (it pulls off, no bolts) undo the coils (a harness plug and 10mm bolt for each) and pop them off, then your plugs are exposed and ready to come out.
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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30 min job max. Take the plastic cover off (it pulls off, no bolts) undo the coils (a harness plug and 10mm bolt for each) and pop them off, then your plugs are exposed and ready to come out.
Thanks can’t wait till spring. 41-108 delco plugs good?

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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 02:24 AM
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I have a 2007 redline and am looking to get it tuned. It is completely stock and will stay that way. I have the same issue allot of people have with the car hesitating if you just Stomp on it. If I hit the pedal slower it goes great. I just want it to be a little more responsive. Any recommendations?
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I want to keep everything stock and have my car run good AND keep it at a safe amount of power for the engine. Not sure what you read but it’s ok I just made it more clear if you need that. I will check and replace plugs first. Open to any suggestions. Thanks
What I read is what you wrote in your first post--that you want the canned tune for your car. The canned tune is completely safe, and dramatically improves the throttle response. The power level is well within the acceptable threshold for this engine, GM specifically designed the entire drive train for that level of power, and then offered a version of it themselves through their retail channel.

The factory tune is setup to maintain safe traction for most drivers. If I mash the gas down in my car with the tune active in first or second and it's anything but a warm day with sticky pavement, the back end will step out. Not ideal for many drivers, hence, the eased throttle response in the stock software.

The plugs are not the problem--the factory plugs have never been out of my car and it runs fine. But, on my car, and any of these cars, if you switch the tune off, the throttle response is clearly slower.

Good luck.
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 09:25 AM
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What I read is what you wrote in your first post--......
Read what he wrote in post #6 : "Cough and go" is not normal behavior. I have a stock RL and it does not cough, it just goes.

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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 01:16 PM
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Read what he wrote in post #6 : "Cough and go" is not normal behavior. I have a stock RL and it does not cough, it just goes.
Agree - I've never experienced that. It does happen on my wife's Mazda 3, and usually when turning a corner. so very inconvenient when making a left turn with oncoming traffic....(the factory mechanics are clueless, sadly).

Buddy, there is something amiss with you car (nothing to do with the tune/program, I would think) and you need to get to the bottom of it. Sorry I don't have any specific suggestions for you, but there are number of people on here that may have dealt with this before and will hopefully pipe up.

Might want to review this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMmcARsAsbA

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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 01:02 PM
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Ah... I see... you want perfect throttle response, not gonna happen in a Sky. Go buy a Tesla M3, I never have any hesitation and 0-60 in 3.2 seconds
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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 03:14 PM
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Read what he wrote in post #6 : "Cough and go" is not normal behavior. I have a stock RL and it does not cough, it just goes.
Still not convinced it's a real hesitation--his first post didn't mention anything about that. We'll have to see what he says when he chimes back in...
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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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It is a real hesitation. From a 20mph roll you stomp it to the floor it goes. From a dead stop or 5mph it hesitates or coughs if I smash it to the floor. It picks it self up and goes but hesitation doesn’t seem necessary.

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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 07:09 PM
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It is a real hesitation. From a 20mph roll you stomp it to the floor it goes. From a dead stop or 5mph it hesitates or coughs if I smash it to the floor. It picks it self up and goes but hesitation doesn’t seem necessary.
Are you sure it's not a traction control thing? Press the traction control button twice, and see if it still happens. If that clears the issue, you are just starting to spin the tires and traction control takes over.

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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Are you sure it's not a traction control thing? Press the traction control button twice, and see if it still happens. If that clears the issue, you are just starting to spin the tires and traction control takes over.
No it’s not traction. You actually lean forward when it does it. In order to take off quick I need to ease into it

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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 10:58 PM
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I'm wondering if you just have a gummed-up throttle butterfly? It's sticking at the point when it is fully closed.

You could try taking the the rubber intake hose off and squirting into the throttle body with TB cleaner. Un-gunk it.
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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-28-2019, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Buddy View Post
No it’s not traction. You actually lean forward when it does it. In order to take off quick I need to ease into it
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Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
I'm wondering if you just have a gummed-up throttle butterfly? It's sticking at the point when it is fully closed.

You could try taking the the rubber intake hose off and squirting into the throttle body with TB cleaner. Un-gunk it.
OK--I'm convinced now that it's not normal behavior. (Though, once you get it sorted out you still should get the tune.) I would do what TomatoSoup said and start by cleaning the throttle body. But, this is an automatic, right? Are you also getting a downshift with the "choking?" What if you shift it down into what would be the target gear before you mash the throttle? Is it still doing it?
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-28-2019, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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I will try cleaning it first thing in the spring then I will report here and continue this saga. Thanks everyone and have a great thanksgiving.

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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 02:39 PM
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I sometimes turn the Trifecta tune off just to get used to how slow it was before. Then I turn it back on and smile.

The initial throttle hesitation was slightly present on my car but half a can of seafoam through the intake (and a plug change) fixed that mostly - could have been the butterfly valve or could have been a combination of carbon build up due to GDI. The throttle response now while in Trifecta tune mode is as good as I can expect, it's still not that great with the tune turned off. No issues with engine after 20k miles. Still considering water injection for the hot Florida summers and continuous cleaning of carbon from intake valves.

I hear you on indiscriminately wanting more and more, and how that is a bad philosophy with no set goal of "I'll be happy with this". Trifecta got me to that happy point, any more power for my goals would be pointless for this car. I don't see it as a problem for reliability, nor have I experienced any issues from it other than requiring better band clamps for the increased boost. The GMPP official tune was covered by the factory the warranty so the platform is definitely designed with that power level in mind. The only additional thing I may consider is gutting the cat right after the turbo. Too much heat is retained, and probably some flow issues. The heat appears to be one of the main factors for waterpump issues (probably bakes the seals).

One thing that could be happening is, you have a small boost leak, either from previously mentioned band clamps for the charge pipes/intercooler, or the factory intercooler end tank having a corrosion or ballooning crack. Get an OBD2 reader, and pair it to the Torque app (Android, not sure about iOS) and post your Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT). Might see an issue if they are far from expected.
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