Everytime I go to the gas station I can only get a couple of second at a time before the nozzle clicks. It seems like gas is back feeling in the hose. I have to wait for the gas to drain down before pumping more. It takes an extreme amount of time to put $10 in...

I've did some research and saw it could be the EVAP canister vent valve or solenoid. I did have a code for this but it has since cleared. (Cant remember the code number). Is this the likely culprit? And where is this vent valve and solenoid located? I'm will to try all possibilities until I find a solution.

- Thanks.

There is a lot of information on this on the form.Search under user name moose breath and look for his post of fuel keeps shutting off when filling under advanced search this will tell you what you need to know.

Took off main vapor hose before the canister and it was filled with charcoal. I ended up damaging the hose but I blee out the charcoal. I accidentally broke the hose that T's off of the main hose so now I'm looking for a replacement... I've plugged the small vent line and was wondering if there would be any negative effects to still driving with the small vent line plugged...

Also I've looked around the internet and can not find the hose. If anyone can send me a link to one I'd appreciate it.

GM part number 10351141

Looks like the part number has been changed
https://www.tubmangmpartsdepot.ca/p/.../15285196.html

The problem I had was that the metal flapper valve at the top of the filler tube slid down into the restriction at the mouth of the fuel tank. To repair it I had to remove the filler tube and then the trunk liner. Then I cut a hole in the trunk floor to gain access to the clamp at the bottom of the tube to remove the displaced valve. I was unable to remove the valve so I bent it with a long thick screwdriver. I put the part of the floor that was cut out back in and reattached it with layers of duct tape.

thank you!

Ok. Buckle up. I had the same problem and the fix is a PITA any way you slice it. You cant get to the evap canister thru the trunk unless you cut a major part of the right side top away in the trunk above the gas tank.The cover you CAN remove is to the left of the canister and you cant get to the canister from the removable cover. I took it to 3 qualified mechanics. Two of them said they wouldn't touch the job the third one said he would give it a shot but he didn't want to do it because the proper way to do it is to take down everything that covers the gas tank then drop the gas tank out. The canister is attached to the right side of the gas tank. You have to drop the gas tank down before you can get to the canister. I have heard that you can cut like I said before on the right side of the part that covers the gas tank in the trunk. You may be able to get to it that way but there are hoses and different things in there. I could not get anyone to even look at doing it that way. I could not put any gas in my car so I finally had to take it to the GM dealer and drop just shy of $2,000, most of it labor, to get it squared away. That's why I said buckle up. If there is another way to solve the problem the dealer and the other mechanics have no clue. You are in for a very rough ride either way you cut it.

Cameron I answered your question in this thread but forgot to quote you. Sorry it aint better news but it is fixable.

If I ever have to change any of that stuff I'm cutting the dang floor. LOL Have Dremel will travel! LOL

You have spoken wisely, Grasshopper and if I had your knowledge and skills I would have done the same but I can look at things like that and have no clue. I could probably have cut and gotten in there but after that it's a serious crap shoot.

LOL I hear ya. That's how I am with welding...god I wish I could weld and had the equipment...and the space...and the materials...

I've seen someone on here cut the floor and it doesn't look hard. Trace out where you need to cut extending the existing port for the fuel pump access, cut with a Dremel, then bolt in some tabs around the new section of the hole, place the plastic piece back on the new tabs with the fuel pump access plate bolted to it and the rest of the floor to align everything, drill holes in the plastic where it lines up with the tabs so you have a hole through both, then remove the fuel pump access panel, put in some nuts and bolts to hold the plastic floor panel we've made to the tabs, then reinstall fuel pump access panel.

That really came out longer than I had thought. LOL Still, now if you did the shelves right where they are either tapped for the screw you added or have speed nuts on them, you can remove the plastic panel and fuel pump access panel as one unit. Otherwise you'll have to take the fuel pump access panel off first then the new plastic access panel. With the carpet in place, you'll never see the modification.

I cut out the top of the trunk floor this pst weekend to replace the purge valve and bad charcoal canister (pellets were falling out of it once removed from car). My dremel with a router guide and cutting bit worked great. Had a buddy running shop vac at same time to minimize cutting dust & debris. Weinstalled a new canister and valve, but it is still slow to fill tank. I can hear the gasoline gurgle up the fill tube, right before it shuts off the pump. I pulled the vent tube extension from the gas tank and it is clear. However, I tried to move air through it (by mouth) when it was attached to fixed tank vent tube and no air would pass. I am hoping someone has ideas or perhaps something I missed. FYI - I sealed the floor opening that I cut out with silicone and a fabbed piece of zinc plated sheet metal, held down with a couple of rivets. It almost looks factory.

Look for obstruction here.

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This evening, I bought a bore scope inspection camera and took a look down my gas tank fill tube. Here’s what I found from the inlet to where the fill tube meets the tank. I don’t know what I’m looking at, so if anyone does, the first round is on me. Tell me how to fix it & I’ll also but dinner

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