Robotech has been the recepient of three blown engines in the last 4 months. and now building number 5 with number 6 finalization next week. HE truly isn't the person to ask on this stuff. I am hoping these last two actually work how hat he wants them to do. I have my doubts he will be satisfied with them. mine went to basic stock this afternoon. No more giant turbo, will tune in the morninig. And as much money and time as I have wasted over the last year and half, I am glad I did it, but much happier to know what I had was enough to begin with.
LOL No no no no…
Let's be clear...a blown engine is one where you BREAK something in the block causing the engine not to run. Rod through the block, demolished piston, spun bearings, those are blowing an engine. I've broken pistons on the Grand Prix and didn't blow the engine. (the 3800s were known for snapping pistons)
Last year in April my fiancé's 2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo blew a head gasket because it was tuned with boost that was on the cusp of what was believed it could handle. The head studs were weaker than expected, stretched, and blew the head gasket. No water in the oil, no oil in the water, a slight water leak into the cylinder but not enough to cause it to have vapor in the exhaust, car still driveable and wouldn't over heat unless stopped at a light.
My head gasket started to fail last September. Still driveable. No smoke, no oil in the water, no water in the oil. Basically did the same thing my fiancé's car did.
Fiance's engine build was unplanned when we went to replace the head gasket and found rings in 1 and 4 looking shot. 2013 Hyundai Veloster turbos are notorious for putting rods through the block after 60K miles and no one knows for sure why. We believe the rings would have led to a catastrophic failure had we not rebuilt or replaced it. So we rebuilt it with all forged internals. The head gasket going out was probably a good thing as the engine would have gone south not much after the head gasket went.
My engine was already going to be upgraded. The engine I have going in now was ordered before I blew my head gasket. In April the Sky's damaged gasket finally gave out and the "Hey let's put this in when we can" turned into "We need to get this in now" and that's what I've been trying to do since.
My fiancé's engine just ate a plug last month. No idea why it happened but the bottom of the plug (what you'd bend to adjust the spark gap) broke off in the engine, bounced around, and we believe it hung a valve in the head. One of those stupid things that can happen. It's going to the shop next weekend to have it looked at and determine what our next step is.
So in the last four months I blew an already damaged head gasket and ate a spark plug. That's it. In the last year, you can add to that one more blown head gasket. Not a great record, but far from 6 engines in 4 months. LOL
Why you guys continue to use BHP? Dyno measure whp and calculate bhp which is only an approximation.
I'm not one to usually use BHP numbers. Having come from the GM W-body world, I am use to talking in WHP since once you modify the car, that's the only measurement you can make. You can approximate BHP, but WHP is the only number you can accurately measure. I have found though that HP Tuners can be used to get you a pretty close guestimation on WHP.
I put my car on a chassis dyno and came away with 250 whp. I then went home and set up HPT to calculate BHP based on the ECM's calculations. Getting that BHP number from HPT I calculated back to WHP and came up with 249 WHP. For me, that was close enough to trust the numbers I get from HPT to get a very close guess as to what I'm making at the wheels without it being on a dyno. 266 is where I was at when the head went. 15-16 PSI is just a little much on the stock LE5's head bolts.