New GM ECM tune, problems??? - Saturn Sky Forums: Saturn Sky Forum
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-18-2008, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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New GM ECM tune, problems??? FIXED!!!

I had the car upgraded for my wife yesterday. The check engine light was on and a reset of the computer (disconnect battery) fixed it. Prior to the reset, we didn't hear the whistle when the throttle is let off like before but it came back after the reset. It ran good and pulled hard but showed only 11 to 14# of boost. Today I took it for another ride and the whistle is gone and the boost registers 18 for a moment then it drops down to around 13/14. The check engine light is still off. I installed the two sensors then drove it to the dealership for the tune, only 10# of boost was available and the power was down. I only got on it once for a bit to see what would happen, it drove fine otherwise. I rechecked the sensor wiring and connection and all is fine. I don't normally drive the car and my wife doesn't drive it hard but she wanted the tune.
For those that had the tune done, do you still hear the blow off whistle and what boost do you see? I can hear a deep poof like sound when the throttle is let off.



Finally FIXED!
GM tech got up with the dealership with a new program(?). He paused between each step and the tune finally took. Car runs great.
I would like to thank Tom at Crate Engine Depot for all of his help in this!

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Last edited by Blue Thunder; 02-03-2009 at 05:58 PM. Reason: updating
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-18-2008, 10:00 PM
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Check your hose clamps on the intercooler and intake. If that doesn't improve your boost, I would take it back to the dealership and have them recheck the flash. Something isn't right. Check the reports on the 290 confirmed thread and the just the facts thread.
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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I got a code reader and I have P0238 Boost Sensor A circuit high and P0098 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High Input. I believe I have a bad sensor.

BTW, the mounting hole in these sensors barely fit as I had to file down the threads (only where it contacts the sensor) on the bolt that holds the sensor on the intake manifold. The other sensor is held down with a smaller dia. screw.

Is there a way to test the sensors to see which is bad and can I get a replacement if so. I'm a little wary of my dealership.

Reset battery, rechecked wiring making sure that connections are good/recrimped. With the battery reset all sounded normal with blow off whistle and 15# boost, strong 15# boost. Stopped and restarted and now the whistle is gone and a P2227 code Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance code is now up by its self.

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Last edited by Blue Thunder; 12-19-2008 at 01:49 PM.
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 03:53 PM
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That's why it pays to let the dealer do it all. I know you said you were weary of yours but if something is wrong they have to fix it under warranty. Now since you did some stuff, who knows what they might say.

I don't know exactly where you are in Louisiana but it would have been worth driving to another dealer somewhere just for the peace of mind. If I didn't trust mine here in Savannah, I would be willing to drive to Jacksonville, Charleston or maybe Atlanta for something like the Stage 2 install.

I hope you get it worked out.
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-19-2008, 05:07 PM
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There is a post on the Solstice side about some of the o-rings that came with the new sensors were dry rotted.GM Stage II Kit review - Page 10 - Pontiac Solstice Forum

Also saw this one. GM Stage II Kit review - Page 10 - Pontiac Solstice Forum

Someone else also posted but I do not remember where that the tech that preformed his had trouble getting the upgraded program downloaded and installed in the car and told the person it was installed when it was not. I believe he stated it threw some codes so he called the dealer and the tech admitted that the program didn't load so he had to take it back... I believe it may have been on the HHR forum.

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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-20-2008, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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I'm going to bring it to the dealer and what happens happens. To many times I try to save some money and it bites me in the end.

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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-20-2008, 09:25 AM
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You can narrow the problem down by asking your self what are the differences between before and after the tune...Did you see higher boost before the tune?

I would let your dealer deal with these issues....in the end that is really the only reason for getting the GM Tune which is the dealer will honor it's Warranty.

Martin
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-20-2008, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by GM Roadster Club View Post
You can narrow the problem down by asking your self what are the differences between before and after the tune...Did you see higher boost before the tune?

I would let your dealer deal with these issues....in the end that is really the only reason for getting the GM Tune which is the dealer will honor it's Warranty.

Martin
If I were buying this tune, the whole thing would be done at the dealer. After shelling out the BIG doe for the parts, why skimp of the technical part of it to save a couple of dollars> AND it's all covered which is the initial idea here, you get into the GM computer system and the Vin is registered, thereby, warranty preserved. I am not sure what kind of warranty those that had it done by a 3rd party would have, I would assume that it would be void since it was not installed at a Pontiac/Saturn dealer..




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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-20-2008, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GM Roadster Club View Post
I would let your dealer deal with these issues....in the end that is really the only reason for getting the GM Tune which is the dealer will honor it's Warranty.

Martin
Or the No Lift Shift, or the sensors which will allow for a higher kpa and pave the way for a turbo upgrade, or the no learn down, or..

GMR makes a great tune too, and should the GM tune prove hackable I may well ask you work on mine, but that statement was inaccurate.

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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-20-2008, 01:29 PM
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....in the end that is really the only reason for getting the GM Tune which is the dealer will honor it's Warranty.

Martin

My regular dealer wanted a whopping $350 for the install and the $650/$700 for the kit. For that same "grand" I could get the GM Roadster tune and a few mods.
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-20-2008, 02:18 PM
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So after mine was installed, tech took for test drive all ok; I start to drive out and CEL goes on-turned around, they put TECH 2 on it code is P2227-Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance, we cleared it thinking it was just a glitch- nope came back today. Called dealer their going to call TAC on Monday and I'll stop by after work. I want them to re-reflash the ECM thinking something didn't take; 'cuz the repair for 2227 is replace the ecm.

WANT CHANGE- never vote for the incumbent

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Hug your child, no matter what their age..LMS RIP (1973-2009)
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-20-2008, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by kwayne View Post
So after mine was installed, tech took for test drive all ok; I start to drive out and CEL goes on-turned around, they put TECH 2 on it code is P2227-Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance, we cleared it thinking it was just a glitch- nope came back today. Called dealer their going to call TAC on Monday and I'll stop by after work. I want them to re-reflash the ECM thinking something didn't take; 'cuz the repair for 2227 is replace the ecm.
Not Funny, perhaps the tech fried your ECM unintetionally.. I'd just replace the sucker & re flash ..GL




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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-21-2008, 07:19 AM
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The first thing to check would be the wiring to the sensors. The pinouts to the two connectors are different. Check the wire color against the connector pin position, noting that they are different for each sensor. The sensors are the same but they are wired differently depending on position.

For the intake tube connector:

Pin 1 Tan
Pin 2 Light Blue
Pin 3 Gray
Pin 4 Purple

For the intake manifold connector:

Pin 1 Tan
Pin 2 No connection
Pin 3 Gray
Pin 4 Light Green

When looking at the sensor, the connection to the right is pin 1.

If looking at the pigtail connector pins, pin 1 is to the left.

You can also swap the sensors to see if you get different errors. It is doubtful that two sensors would be bad with the same failure.

Last edited by sahein; 12-21-2008 at 08:06 AM.
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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-21-2008, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, I trippled checked the sensors and they are hooked up right. I'm just getting the P2227 code.

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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-21-2008, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Thunder View Post
I'm just getting the P2227 code.
the repair for 2227 is replace the ecm.

WANT CHANGE- never vote for the incumbent

Ken
R/L"+"; Forrest Green,3 pedals, spoiler,1 CD Monsoon - 264 RWHP 335 RW torque


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