Troubleshooting Boost Control Solenoid - Saturn Sky Forums: Saturn Sky Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Troubleshooting Boost Control Solenoid

Hi,
I think there is an issue with my boost control solenoid, but I'd like to troubleshoot it properly before just replacing it. I searched around and didn't really find anything in troubleshoot it.

Since my car is modified... a lot... the normal troubleshooting doesn't work. The car will make 10 psi in 4th, which is about what the wastegate is set for (this is my wastegate: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Garrett-Int...72.m2749.l2649)

I did drive the car with the wastegate line clamped and saw up to 18 psi before the car started misfiring so badly that I let off. Separate issue that I am still working on addressing. This tells me that isn't not an issue with the wastegate itself, but with something on the boost control side.

I do have a CEL on, misfire from Cyl 4 and my secondary 02 sensor (car has no cat so I had assumed that the tune took care of it, but I guess not) so I am wondering if that is enough to trigger the low power mode or not. Is there anything on the dash that indicates when the car is in low power mode?

Anyone have the manual's troubleshooting steps for it? One question I do have is that does the plug normally have 12 volts to it or only when it's being triggered. It seems like, as a fail safe, it would only be triggered when the car is telling it to stay closed.

Thanks,
Douglas
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 01:53 AM
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Why not just try replacing the boost control solenoid? I recently had this part fail on my 2005 9-3 and it wouldn't boost past 5 psi. Any high load demand would put the car into limp mode and then there would be no boost at all until a restart. A code never set, but there was one pending, I forget which now.

I was able to get a new solenoid from the UK shipped for 37, installed it in about 10 minutes, and everything is back to normal.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 09:37 AM
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Yes, you could troubleshoot it but it would be a very involved process. You would have to have a controlled pressure source on the input, away to monitor the output, and a controlled voltage source to trigger it. It would be like a design engineering lab if you were to build one.

As mentioned I would just replace it with a known good one and call it a day.

Larry
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 09:42 AM
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There is nothing on the dash to indicate "limp mode".

The check engine light will not come on until the 2nd occurance. The 1st one puts you in limp mode so you never see the 2nd one.

I have been down this rode several times.

Larry
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z06-Redline View Post
Yes, you could troubleshoot it but it would be a very involved process. You would have to have a controlled pressure source on the input, away to monitor the output, and a controlled voltage source to trigger it. It would be like a design engineering lab if you were to build one.
On the Saab Trionic ECU it is possible to activate the solenoid with the Tech II. You would still need to have the correct tool to create a vacuum for an effective test, however. In my opinion, the part is so inexpensive and easy to replace it's not really worth messing around with. And, assuming there isn't a loose or failed hose, it's also the most common point of failure in the system.

Last edited by mstrjon32; 11-03-2018 at 11:15 AM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 09:51 AM
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For your misfires: Check the spark plug gaps. Even if your gap is set at .035 it could be too wide. I started having these misfires at wot and the gaps had increased to over .040. I put them back to .035 and it was better but not right until at .030. Then no more misfiring. Had to find what the engine's sweet spot is. I had gapped and installed the plugs myself so I didn't think it was possible, but it does happen and was a "free fix".
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Blue Skies ahead View Post
For your misfires: Check the spark plug gaps. Even if your gap is set at .035 it could be too wide. I started having these misfires at wot and the gaps had increased to over .040. I put them back to .035 and it was better but not right until at .030. Then no more misfiring. Had to find what the engine's sweet spot is. I had gapped and installed the plugs myself so I didn't think it was possible, but it does happen and was a "free fix".
I found my plugs were gapped at .045 when I checked first. I brought them down to .032 and bought new ones. Part of the issue was a dying battery, which has been resolved. I still have misfires, but I don't really care as my engine is screwed so I figure I'll drive it until it completely gives out (hopefully in a spectacular fashion that doesn't damage my hood) or next Spring when I'll have time to replace it.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 11:01 AM
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Glad you got it sorted. What plugs did you go with?

I have misfires right now and I am almost certain it's plug gap. I NEED new plugs but the new engine is only a few months away so I'm trying to hold off. LOL


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Glad you got it sorted. What plugs did you go with?

I have misfires right now and I am almost certain it's plug gap. I NEED new plugs but the new engine is only a few months away so I'm trying to hold off. LOL
I bought 41-108's, which is the factory plug. Misfire got worse. Re-installed the 41-988s that came with it and it got a little better. Odd that used plugs produced less misfires, but I suspect that is related to their resistance rating and my failing battery.
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