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post #31 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skersfan View Post
No, it was not available in the Sky or RL.

I think the Solstice had a smokers package in 2006.

The power port on the passenger side dash is not a lighter. Not supposed to be used as one according to GM and many on this site. My set up came from Germany, I do not have a lighter in the passenger side door.

I have never used it, but it is functional with the orange light around the lighter.
No, it doesn't have a lighter on the passenger side, just the port (my bad although i do think the lighter fits there too).
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post #32 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 11:46 PM
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Yes sir, it will fit the power port, but not enough insulation/protection on the socket for the lighter. I know people that use it for a lighter receptacle though.

I never saw the car today, hell I don't even know where it is at. Moved from its normal nesting place. So tired of it, I didn't even ask where it was.

Getting ready for a big mountain biking trip. No time for cars. lol
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post #33 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by skersfan View Post
Yes sir, it will fit the power port, but not enough insulation/protection on the socket for the lighter. I know people that use it for a lighter receptacle though.

I never saw the car today, hell I don't even know where it is at. Moved from its normal nesting place. So tired of it, I didn't even ask where it was.

Getting ready for a big mountain biking trip. No time for cars. lol
Did you get my message yesterday about the seats for Jim to look at? LOL


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post #34 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 11:29 AM
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The seat burn of the leather inserts to the back of your legs moment... been there done that before.
Along with the driver's door arm rest, the console, the transmission lever, the steering wheel among other things.

Almost from day one, I have cover my leather seats with bath towels, Walmart specials. Cheap and effective.
These can be quickly removed when the show & shine session car show activities are part of your day.
They can be removed and washed on a frequent basis. Protects the seats from wear & tear, UV rays, the
occasion bird poop special. It also protects the back of my legs from getting burnt on a hot ass day.
Not a high dollar item when compared to custom seat covers. If these bath towels do wear out, wander on
up to local Walmart and purchase a new set. Color coordinated, tan for the two tone interior of my RL.
Light colors are better then dark colors here. A cloth alternative to the fabric seats from the factory.

With many micro-fiber towels around my interior for varying usage, from time to time, I have begun to get
creative to covering parts of the car's interior spaces. One or two to cover the console , maybe the transmission lever.
A foam can huggie fits well over this too. Used one folded up on the drivers door arm rest to ease the burn, saves my elbow.

Being that my back can get sore on some drives, I have taken to a small memory foam pillow, for the lower lumber
section of the driver's seat. Works well for me, and I fit more comfortable in the drivers seat. When not in use, I throw
this behind the drivers seat, or in the passenger footwell. I used it at the track last Saturday, to cover my cooler top
in the passenger footwell area. Keeps the direct sunlight from beating down on the cooler all day. Micro fiber towel works here too.
I had a light blue shirt on that day, which when it got hot later, I removed and... cover the entire steering wheel. Cool to the touch later. The passenger arm rest against the seat bolster squeak from hell? Wrap a micro fiber towel around the seat belt,
then place between the door arm rest and seat bolster, Close door. No more squeak.

I have a good buddy of mine, who owns a 62 MB vert, and sometimes when he shows up at the track, he brings an umbrella. WTH?
Pops it open, rests it on the head rest, and the windshield surround, and bingo the seat is covered for the day.

We have discussed here about the foil windshield sun blockers to protect the interior of our cars when parked.
Fine and dandy to protect the dash, but for the rest of our interiors not so much.
Up to you the owner to protect your interior, and the back of your legs.

LAC

Last edited by LAC Sky; 09-05-2019 at 11:38 AM.
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post #35 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 11:33 AM
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I didn't see him yesterday. Most likely will today. What year GT did he get. I had a 94 VR4 for awhile. Nice car, but was expensive to maintain. It was the first year, and had front brake problems, mine went in less than 8K the first time. Really liked the car, twin turbo, all wheel steering, and drive if I remember correctly. Fast and fun. Air Dam and Spoiler worked.
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post #36 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by skersfan View Post
I didn't see him yesterday. Most likely will today. What year GT did he get. I had a 94 VR4 for awhile. Nice car, but was expensive to maintain. It was the first year, and had front brake problems, mine went in less than 8K the first time. Really liked the car, twin turbo, all wheel steering, and drive if I remember correctly. Fast and fun. Air Dam and Spoiler worked.
Was it all wheel drive? Steering yes, but not drive IIRC. Kool car, way ahead of its time. Expensive too. Lot of computers to run
all the Hi-tech stuff. Ton of wiring too. Sort of like the GTR is now, 7 miles of wiring, PS4 features, more stuff to go wrong. Weight
is the killer to fun.

Wheeler Dealer did a show out your way, last year I think. VR4 Yellow with added factory chrome wheels. Purchased used for 6K.
It was ok in yellow I guess but the added factory chrome wheels in the end were imo to much. Like the older wheels on it when purchased but that's just me.

Ant fixed all the aero stuff, then takes it out, and does 120 in it like. Ye Ha.
Heavy car but fun it was when I had my base model. Without the twin turbo set up, kinda doggie with only 227 hp. The twin turbo
had about 320. Nothing wrong with that. Good god help you if both turbos were to go down. Big bucks to fix.
To say nothing of the four wheel steering, the air dam/ wing spoiler. Ant found the solutions, and Mike
sold the car to some young girl for 12K.

I saw over the weekend on Motor Trend one of the old Top Gear shows, and Jeremy had the Lexus LFA model.
Another high tech model way ahead of its time. Costs a fortune too. Formula 1 car with a body on it more or less.

Last night I watched Goblin Works Garage show pretty cool, Did a 65 Mustang, with a new Ford 289 engine.
Clean and Mean. Re-bought this model for 30k, then fixed it, sold to their
painter's daughter who just happen to want a road/ racer for personal use.
Her dad, the painter puts up 40K, and she adds another
$7500 and sold $47500. Think the Goblin crew spent 44k to fix it. Crazy.

LAC

Last edited by LAC Sky; 09-05-2019 at 12:36 PM.
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post #37 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 12:59 PM
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I couldn't remember if it was AWD. Certainly would not surprise me. The car was way ahead of everything on the highway at the time it seemed. We had the white with the pearl look to it. Chrome wheels came on it. I wanted the red one, but none to be found at the time. They sold quickly, we traveled all over to find one in stock. They offered a phone in the console, ours did not have that, but think that was the only option it didn't have. But it was expensive going to the dealer. Got rid of it before the warranty expired. Anxious to see Grant's.
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post #38 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 01:22 PM
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Back to the original question: I use a beaded seat cushion for ventilation. Also, I have never had a problem with the PPS. Could it be related? I think so.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Allison-O...CABEgIQlvD_BwE


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post #39 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skersfan View Post
I didn't see him yesterday. Most likely will today. What year GT did he get. I had a 94 VR4 for awhile. Nice car, but was expensive to maintain. It was the first year, and had front brake problems, mine went in less than 8K the first time. Really liked the car, twin turbo, all wheel steering, and drive if I remember correctly. Fast and fun. Air Dam and Spoiler worked.
His is a 1992 VR-4...second year first generation. Yours would have been first year, second generation. 1991-93 is first gen, 94-95 is second, 96-99 is third (and last for US production) then 2000-01 is fourth and final year (Japan only).


Quote:
Originally Posted by LAC Sky View Post
Was it all wheel drive? Steering yes, but not drive IIRC. Kool car, way ahead of its time. Expensive too. Lot of computers to run
all the Hi-tech stuff. Ton of wiring too. Sort of like the GTR is now, 7 miles of wiring, PS4 features, more stuff to go wrong. Weight
is the killer to fun.

Wheeler Dealer did a show out your way, last year I think. VR4 Yellow with added factory chrome wheels. Purchased used for 6K.
It was ok in yellow I guess but the added factory chrome wheels in the end were imo to much. Like the older wheels on it when purchased but that's just me.

Ant fixed all the aero stuff, then takes it out, and does 120 in it like. Ye Ha.
Heavy car but fun it was when I had my base model. Without the twin turbo set up, kinda doggie with only 227 hp. The twin turbo
had about 320. Nothing wrong with that. Good god help you if both turbos were to go down. Big bucks to fix.
To say nothing of the four wheel steering, the air dam/ wing spoiler. Ant found the solutions, and Mike
sold the car to some young girl for 12K.

I saw over the weekend on Motor Trend one of the old Top Gear shows, and Jeremy had the Lexus LFA model.
Another high tech model way ahead of its time. Costs a fortune too. Formula 1 car with a body on it more or less.

Last night I watched Goblin Works Garage show pretty cool, Did a 65 Mustang, with a new Ford 289 engine.
Clean and Mean. Re-bought this model for 30k, then fixed it, sold to their
painter's daughter who just happen to want a road/ racer for personal use.
Her dad, the painter puts up 40K, and she adds another
$7500 and sold $47500. Think the Goblin crew spent 44k to fix it. Crazy.

LAC
He has a 1992 3000GT VR-4. These came stock with:
  • 3.0 L V6 twin turbocharged at 300 bhp and 307 ft/lbs. (Later generations would have 320 bhp and 315 ft/lbs but the earlier gens can be tweaked to do the same numbers.)
  • All Wheel Drive (AWD)
  • All Wheel Steering (AWS)
  • Active Aerodynamics
  • Active Exhaust
  • Electronically Controlled Suspension (ECS - that used vehicle speed, g-force sensors and steering angle to actively adjust damping on each corner)
  • 4 Piston front brakes and single piston rear (though later years got larger rotors and 2 piston rear brakes...front calipers were still the same)
  • 17" wheels. Later years got 18" to clear larger brakes. (In 1992 20" wheels weren't even a thought. 18" was huge. Most were 15-16")
  • Power leather seats with driver adjustable power lumbar and side bolster support
  • Heated power mirrors
  • Driver's side air bag (were not required yet in 1992. Later years had a passenger airbag too.)
  • Digital automatic climate control
  • Popup headlights (later models were fixed)

He has the controller for the ECS but once we plugged it in there is an error in the system. Could be one of the sensors or the shock controllers. All available and replaceable.

The active exhaust has a broken cable and a frozen exhaust valve but the valve is typical and the new cable is on the way. the valve can be freed up and made operational again in most cases.

Active aero works, but only the rear spoiler. The front was damaged and while the motor and hardware are all there and functioning, the motor mount is bent causing the linkage alignment to be off and the linkage to bind which will cause an error too. Plus there is no lower piece...the part that actually drops down...and that is near impossible to find. We will though. We want to get it functioning again. The rear just needs a lot of lubrication because it's totally dry.

Engine is strong. Has lifter tick but $180 in parts and a couple hours putting them in that's fixed. (don't even have to remove the camshafts or timing belt...damn too easy...getting to the rear bank takes longer than actually changing all 24 of them). Trans and AWD system is also in good order. Steering works as does the AWS which is nice.

AC is out and the digital display is out but the display is common and takes about $1.00 in resistors and some soldering to fix. AC we're converting to R134 since right now it's still the old R12 as far as we know. Probably need a couple hose changes and a recharge. Conversion is $35. Nothing major.

Power mirrors are good, though we haven't tested the defrosters yet. No way to. His driver's side housing was busted and then he got the passenger side backing into the garage. Found two housings in his color (green) and a new passenger side heated mirror for about $80 total. Fixed those.

Body is bloody straight. Not even a single door ding. Paint has some issues on the back bumper which they brushed up against something but a shot of paint will fix all that. Popups even work flawlessly.

Interior...well...there's the project. Back seat isn't bad but cracking along the upper back where it is exposed to the sun. Fronts look like someone housed a tiger in them with a clawing problem. They are trashed. Have a new set on the way for $400 but they need recovering. Dash is padding is shot to hell (all gauges and indicators work though) and picked up a good one for $280 on eBay already. Trunk is missing a couple pieces but I found a bunch of new truck pieces and a few of the interior pieces that were messed up for $100. Still need a new driver's door panel and to have the panels and seats redone to make them look right. At that point, interior will be nicer than new.

Lots of little things but it's not just the first car he ever bought, it's also a learning tool for him. Lots of systems to diagnose on an OBD1 system and we'll get it all done. When it's finished, it will be a beautiful car.

Best part...we bought it...mechanically sound and perfect body...for $2100. The car does appear to have been apart partially and someone just threw it together to get it to auction. The door panels you can tell came from a Dodge Stealth with cloth interior, things like the clutch and shift linkage were out of adjustment or hitting things...little stuff like that. Pictures attached...but none of the interior. It's bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Boltz View Post
Back to the original question: I use a beaded seat cushion for ventilation. Also, I have never had a problem with the PPS. Could it be related? I think so.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Allison-O...CABEgIQlvD_BwE
Sorry for going so in the weeds. I'm just a very proud Dad (of a son whose birthday is today)...

As for the thing about that beaded seat cushion thing...I almost know so. You're further spreading out the load on the seat.
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V.A.L. (#1108)
2007 2.4 Base
MagnaFlow dual outlet, quad tip exhaust test car
**Sold**

Max (#1547)
2007 TURBO 2.4
Too much to list here. See my Garage for details.

Last edited by Robotech; 09-05-2019 at 02:09 PM.
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post #40 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 02:34 PM
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Back to the original question: I use a beaded seat cushion for ventilation. Also, I have never had a problem with the PPS. Could it be related? I think so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
......Sorry for going so in the weeds. I'm just a very proud Dad (of a son whose birthday is today)...

As for the thing about that beaded seat cushion thing...I almost know so. You're further spreading out the load on the seat.
Think we could get a moderator to get control of this? Oh, wait .....

I think that the seat heating pad also helps.

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post #41 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 03:51 PM
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Think we could get a moderator to get control of this? Oh, wait .....

I think that the seat heating pad also helps.
It use to be the topics on this forum were allowed to wander since they were meant to be more conversational...it is the way most of the automotive and motorcycle forums I've been on operate.

But I wouldn't want to get off topic again going on about that.

The seat heaters could help longevity of the pad as well though I don't know what repeated application of that kind of heat to the sensor mat without the insulation benefit the seat cover would otherwise provide would do the composition of the material the 3D matrix is made out of (other than the wire of course).


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post #42 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 04:28 PM
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It use to be the topics on this forum were allowed to wander since they were meant to be more conversational...it is the way most of the automotive and motorcycle forums I've been on operate.

But I wouldn't want to get off topic again going on about that.

The seat heaters could help longevity of the pad as well though I don't know what repeated application of that kind of heat to the sensor mat without the insulation benefit the seat cover would otherwise provide would do the composition of the material the 3D matrix is made out of (other than the wire of course).
The forum wouldn't be the same if threads actually stayed on topic. I mean, where is the fun in that? Besides, controlling it would be a full-time hopeless task.

My '07 has had heated seats for most of its 104k mile life with no seat sensor problems - yet. They aren't supposed to get over about 110F, which isn't really that hot.
The heater shouldn't get as hot as the seats get in full sun exposure so i wouldn't think that it would be damaging, although greater time of exposure could have an effect.
I looked up some typical flexible printed circuit materials and the lowest maximum working temperature I found was 105C, which is well above anything a seat heater can do.

This is making me wonder about adding positive airflow to a seat. Tapping into the AC would likely be too cumbersome, but simple airflow could be beneficial and not incredibly difficult.

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post #43 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
The forum wouldn't be the same if threads actually stayed on topic. I mean, where is the fun in that? Besides, controlling it would be a full-time hopeless task.

My '07 has had heated seats for most of its 104k mile life with no seat sensor problems - yet. They aren't supposed to get over about 110F, which isn't really that hot.
The heater shouldn't get as hot as the seats get in full sun exposure so i wouldn't think that it would be damaging, although greater time of exposure could have an effect.
I looked up some typical flexible printed circuit materials and the lowest maximum working temperature I found was 105C, which is well above anything a seat heater can do.

This is making me wonder about adding positive airflow to a seat. Tapping into the AC would likely be too cumbersome, but simple airflow could be beneficial and not incredibly difficult.
Exactly about the wandering topics. LOL

Yea I figured that if there was any affect to the seat heater weakening the mats it would be over a long period with prolonged exposure. At that point we'd have no idea unless we put it through an actual test. I don't think too cold would be good either, but we're not talking sub 0 temperatures to cool it off. Using it in the winter in areas that actually get cold would be a bigger issue making the material too brittle.


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2007 2.4 Base
MagnaFlow dual outlet, quad tip exhaust test car
**Sold**

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Nice looking car, & Happy Birthday to your son.
AWD.. I'll be.

Off topic posts... wandering away from the original question. Just wipe my posts clean off the forum.
I'll see if I can disable my keyboard functions... for the read only mode, and stay a member too maybe.
Been looking at new cars anyway...
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Nice looking car, & Happy Birthday to your son.
AWD.. I'll be.

Off topic posts... wandering away from the original question. Just wipe my posts clean off the forum.
I'll see if I can disable my keyboard functions... for the read only mode, and stay a member too maybe.
Been looking at new cars anyway...
Don't have to worry about a think LAC...I have no plans on changing how I moderate anytime...


V.A.L. (#1108)
2007 2.4 Base
MagnaFlow dual outlet, quad tip exhaust test car
**Sold**

Max (#1547)
2007 TURBO 2.4
Too much to list here. See my Garage for details.
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