I wonder if this could be the A/C accessory belt or the compressor clutch pulley perhaps?
IS the A/C charged up? Tested recently by dealer/independent A/C shop? IF not do so.
After sitting for some time, with no usage it could be several things here.
Yes while I agree with other owners here, our systems are not that great from the factory as is, the system does not
have to be, to cool a Vert. It's not like your trying to cool an Escalade here. Limited interior cabin space requires limited cooling.
When in use ( how often does it get used by you depending on location/weather? ) clutch engagement/dis-engagement
( squeaking/noise ), clutch bearings, pulley/belt (noise?) new belt maybe? Re-charge system?
A/C pressure/refridge charge, dryer, should be checked even in the odds months, when the car is stored for winter, to test the
systems under load operations before.... usage in hot driving weather. See owners manual> Climate Controls systems, page 3-17.
* There could be a slight change in engine performance when the A/C compressor unit turns off and then on again.
* The A/C systems removes moisture from the air, so a small amount of water could drip underneath the car.
Note: This water could land on cat/exhaust making a hissing sound/noise.
I test mine, even in Jan/Feb. for 3-5 minutes to work the clutch/oil bearings, pulley/belt to pressurize the system.
Fix/repair in April, is better than fixing it in July when... it gets hot out just sayin.
No one likes to be without A/C on top up hot humid days in July.
IF.. the A/C system is ok, checked/serviced by the dealer/private A/C shop for documentation at current mileage then move on to
fan/engine cooling system.
Fan works. No odd wear/rubbing issues found?
Fuses are good. No over heating issues? No odd engine temps in the DIC noted when A/C is used?
No loss of fluid in expansion tank after usage? No leaks of any kind under car after usage,
besides any condensation that might leak below car? Cooling fluid changed out? More than 5 years old usage?
Fan run on after shutdown. Cool down cycle after a hot day, hot driving, A/C usage.
It could run on 30 seconds to 2-3 minutes or more for some of our owners.
Each car is different here, just like our normal levels for each owner with their normal/high range engine temps vary/ 194-205 . Your results will vary depending on your car's range. Try to stabilize these temps before you shut down, fan, A/C, engine temps,
then engine shut off. Track any odd sequence after this, just in case you have to return to dealer/ private A/C shop for further repair/maintenance IF... they serviced your car for this problem previously ( A/C recharge/belt replacement )?
Your not over heating here. No high temps. Not the dreaded WP issue. Not stuck thermostat. A/C works, fan works, your body temps are cool all are pluses in your favor here. No out of pocket expenses … so far.
Check A/C system first. Could be a cheap fix maybe? Shop/compare for service between dealer/independent service
for best costs to you? A/C recharge & belt/pulley for compressor clutch can be DYI at cost or expensive by dealer/A/C shop.
Checking the DYI box for fan controller/belt for replacement.
Do nothing and accept our crappy/cheap factory system and live with it.
Drop top and drive faster... are we cool yet?
Buy another car( A/C system)? Not likely...
Service/replacing A/C system parts. Costly to your credit card.
Trust me I've been down this road before with my Mits. 3000 GT. & A/C system with this problem.
Last resort: Service cooling system on our car. DYI oh boy.
It's not just a job that the dealer tech Fast Eddie has to do... but it's a big old dent in your credit card.
Your engine fan might be going bad maybe. Engagement when A/C usage is on/off but.. not likely.
You would see high engine temps in the DIC.
Interior cabin blower fan works, noise is not coming from this area, only in the engine compartment/cooling fan area.
Luck with it.
Last edited by LAC Sky; 07-06-2019 at 10:12 AM.
Reason: Always tweeking/editing my post on the forum.