What IATs should I be seeing with trifecta base tune stock turbo.. - Saturn Sky Forums: Saturn Sky Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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What IATs should I be seeing with trifecta base tune stock turbo..

I posted this on the Solstice forum yesterday, and still don't have any answers...Hoping someone here might be able to help me.

Hey guys... I took the redline out last night and had the computer hooked up and decided to do a full wot run us in the nls through each gear. After my first run I was seeing around 110 degrees on a 65 degree day.

Also saw up to 5 degrees of kr early in the rpm range that went away. I felt a little "let up" from the cars pull at around 5k rpms that only last maybe 200 rpms.

I just put on the solo hiflow do as well. I would think better flow from the engine would result in lower IATs but the turbo probably had to spin a little harder to maintain the 20-23 commanded psi from the tune.

Just wondering what IATS you guys usually see with the trifecta.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 02:27 PM
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I assume you are looking at Intake Air Temperature (IAT) 2 and not IAT 1.

We need more information to determine what you're seeing. What were your IAT2 temps before the run? What speed and gear did you start the run in? What speed and gear did you reach? How far into the run did you see temps climb? How long before the temp came down?

110 seems very high for a full throttle run with a non-heat soaked intercooler but considering you're with a trifecta tune it's possible you're intercooler just can't deal with the extra heat generated by the increased boost. What is your boost level btw?


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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I just took it out again, and if I would do one WOT pull in one gear (any gear) I'd see about a 10 degree increase. When I did a run from 2nd (around 3,000 rpms) I floored it was seeing 21-23psi then nls into third all the way out is when it jumped to 110-111.

I was looking at the IAT 2s.. Temps started out around 80.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Well....now I'm thoroughly confused! I checked a datalog I did in 2017 and after the trifecta I was seeing around 10 to 15 degrees higher than ambient AT MOST. That's still at 20-23psi. I checked to see if there was anything stuck on the front of the intercooler and didn't see anything. Right now if I floor it through the gears (early 2nd through early 4th) on an 80 degree day I'm going to look forward to seeing 110-120 degrees on the IAT2.

I'm kind of lost as to what it could be....
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MattM View Post
I just took it out again, and if I would do one WOT pull in one gear (any gear) I'd see about a 10 degree increase. When I did a run from 2nd (around 3,000 rpms) I floored it was seeing 21-23psi then nls into third all the way out is when it jumped to 110-111.

I was looking at the IAT 2s.. Temps started out around 80.
Okay, what are you seeing on your IAT 1 reading?

For those that are following along who may not know how all this works, let me explain my questions.

IAT 1 is a intake air temperature reading taken as air enters the intake to the turbo. In theory, this is your base temperature reading before you start boosting and all that jazz. IAT 2 is a air temperature reading taken after the intercooler but before the air goes into the engine. Usually it is a bit higher than IAT 1.

Now back to MattM,

If your IAT 2 is starting at 80 but your IAT 1 is at 60, the intercooler may already be heat soaked. The more you get into boost, the more you get heat into the intercooler and the more likely it is to be heat soaked.

IF you start your car, let it warm up and then scan it, the IAT 2 should be pretty close to IAT 1 which should be just about the same as your ambient air temp reading. IAT 2 may be 1-3 degrees warmer than IAT 1 at this point.

At the end of the run, IAT 2 still should be pretty close to IAT 1 but may raise up a bit after the run. The more runs you do back to back, the higher IAT 2 will get compared to IAT 1 and the longer it will stay higher as it stays heat soaked. Only prolonged cruising at highway speeds will bring it back down to where it started.

With the tune, jumping up 10 - 15 degrees over a whole run seems pretty normal. I'd need to scan @skersfan's car or someone else locally who has a Redline with a tune to see how there's behaves under similar conditions to verify. My 2.4 turbo doesn't build heat like that but I have a Hahn Intercooler too which is better at removing heat than the OEM intercooler so I can't compare.

I will say though that a 30 degree jump in a rolling 2nd to top of third hit seems really high and a better intercooler may be beneficial. The KR can definitely be coming from the increase in intake air temperature if it's going up that much.


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Last edited by Robotech; 05-17-2019 at 05:55 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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My problem is the fact that it didn't do that before. One difference is that I have the SOLO downpipe in so maybe that could be making the engine bay hotter. I don't know. It's just so weird!!!!
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 07:18 PM
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My problem is the fact that it didn't do that before. One difference is that I have the SOLO downpipe in so maybe that could be making the engine bay hotter. I don't know. It's just so weird!!!!
That could make your engine bay hotter but doubtful. A catalytic converter is hardly an insulator for exhaust heat. LOL

I would run the following tests.

First, start up the car from totally cold and begin scanning. Stay out of boost and drive the car easily until engine coolant temps come up to normal operating levels and stay there for a while. Drive the car at speeds of 40+ mph to keep air moving over the intercooler. Drive for about 40 minutes once engine coolant temps reach normal levels and log the entire drive from the time you start until you end. This is your baseline. Be sure to be MAP as Boost, IAT 1 and 2, RPM, Speed, O2 AFR, KR, and throttle position.

For test 2, start the car from cold and let it warm up like before. Once up to temp though, you want to do a WOT run from first up through third. Log this again from start to finish with the same parameters as before.

For test 3, start the same as test 2 but now you're just going to do a pull in 2nd gear. Let IAT2 temps come back down and stabilize before turning the car off.

For test 4, repeat test 3 but use 3rd instead.

For test 5, start off like you did in test one. After driving a while, do a WOT pull in 2nd or 3rd gear. Allow the IAT 2 temps to stabilize close to where they started. Then do a WOT run from a standing start up to the end of 3rd. Cruise again until the IAT 2 temps stabilize once more. Then do 3-4 WOT runs in 2nd or 3rd back to back. Cruise again until IAT temps stabilize once more.

Test 5 will obviously be your longest test. Each log should include a time of each line of the scan so you can see how long it is taking the IAT 2 reading to rise and fall. In Test 5, the longer you are into the test the hotter the IAT 2 temps should stabilize at. I doubt that after that first or second pull in test 5 that the temps will get very close to IAT 1 temps. I also bet IAT 1 temps will gradually rise during test 5 too.

These tests will do these things:

Test 1 will give you a base line of how engine bay heat only affects the IAT temps. Both should rise during the drive but stay close so long as you stay out of boost.


Tests 2 will give you an indication of how IAT temps are affected when there is no heat soak over a long hard acceleration at full boost and over multiple gears.

Test 3 and 4 will give you an indication of how IAT temps are affected when there is no heat soak but over a shorter pull in one gear and show you the difference between the IAT readings when the load and length of the pull are different.

Test 5 now will give you readings on how much you get heat soaked over time with different pulls, how long it takes for that heat to get pulled out of the system, how completely the heat is pulled out of the system, and how easily it is to heat soak the system, how effective the system is in reducing overall heat soak, and how the system acts when it is heat soaked.

That will give you some comparable data to start getting your answers.


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 09:46 PM
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I have a RPM Motorsports Stage 3 Setup with full cat delete. I just checked my data logs and under WOT I only see a brief 20 degree jump from ambient temps. It quickly goes back down to close to ambient. I have the larger RPM Intercooler.

I just checked my data logs from when I was running RPM's stage 2 tune with stock cat and stock intercooler and under WOT it would jump 50 degrees from ambient.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for your help. Dabman thanks also for the info about iat2s from when you had stock intercooler it does make me feel better. I think part of my reason for not getting high iat2s in my previous run was because I could do wot through multiple gears.
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