What makes you say that the Upgrade kit makes the manual faster than the auto? The stats you give are all for a manual.
The manual does get a few more pounds of torque, but how do you know that this is enough to overcome the inherent slowness of the manual?
Just to be clear, I'm NOT saying that you are wrong...I'd just like to know the facts behind your statement.
Sorry, that didn't come out quite like I wanted...(I'm really not trying to start a war here)
I meant that the (non-upgraded) manual has a 0-60 time of 5.5 where the auto has a (non-upgraded) time of 5.2.
The upgraded manual gets an extra 15 ft-lbs of torque over the upgraded auto, but how do we know if that is enough to make an upgraded manual now faster than an upgraded auto?
I hope that is a bit clearer...
It is clear to me.
I have run automatics, as well as my powertrain counterparts.
On stock cars, what happens is the automatics are very consistent, whereas manuals require absolutely spot on shifts at just the right RPM +/- about 75 RPM. It is like the modern ABS question. Most of the time, including averages of several runs, ABS will outbrake a normal person, but a professional driver may be able to outbrake ABS some of the time, and vary rarely get an average of several stops to match a highly efficient and well-tuned ABS.
The stock calibration is sensitive, and it is too easy to bump the fuel cutoff. Once that happens, the turbo spools down and you have a run with an added 0.1 to 0.3 seconds.
BUT, if you are consistent, you can get back to back runs on manuals that match an automatic. If you give a car to a magazine, you will see on average better and more consistent runs on an auto.
Keep in mind that I call them "back to back" runs, but you really need to run the car in the correct temperature range. If you start up and heat soak the car for 10 minutes, you can get knock and retarded timing and reduced boost right at the start, because your charge air cooler is warm and not cooling the intake charge enough. Conversely, I have found that if the coolant temp is not at least to 185ºF, you will not make full boost. I have not gotten an explanation of why this is, but it is very repeatable.
Now, with the PUpgrade Kit, you have an additional 15 ft-lb of torque in the manual, AND you have no-lift shift enabled. You also have another 250 RPM cushion from the fuel cutoff. The result is you can more easily get consistent runs at near-optimum speed, and the added torque once you hook up is enough to get a faster ET and speed.
Really! I have yet to see some one post a better time in the 1/8 or the 1/4 than I and I have an automatic!!
I saw your timeslip, and no offence, but your car is either not stock, or the timeslip is simply incorrect.
A stock automatic RedLine or GXP will do, at best, 13.7 seconds in a 1/4 mile. Even experimental cars we had with known crank horsepower and torque have trouble getting that fast (12.961 seconds @ 106.6 MPH)
Your car would be making an implied 350 hp crank (290 rwhp), and the stock intake, stock catalytic converter, and even the stock turbo are not capable of producing that amount of power without significant risk to the turbine. The system would have to be running a boost pressure in excess of 2.8 bar to get to those power levels.
When you go full throttle at 50 mph, and your car downshifts, what does your DIC say for maximum boost pressure?