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post #16 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Well..I also have the spacer that came from spec behind the slave so I would think the throw is definitely long enough to fully disengage. Im wondering if there is something else I can do to get rid of this.
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post #17 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 01:29 PM
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It's not that the throw is long enough to disengage, it's where in the pedal travel does the disengagement occur? That's what the master is going to adjust. This is why I asked if you were shifting quickly when it happened. If not, if you were shifting like you normally do but at high RPMs then you may want to give Spec a call and see what they say. I'd be interested to hear their input on it anyway.


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post #18 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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I was shifting fast.
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post #19 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 02:56 PM
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Then you may want to try adjusting your master cylinder. After I adjusted mine I didn't have that problem as much since I was disengaging the clutch sooner in the pedal's travel and not having to make sure I had the pedal on the fire wall before moving the gear lever.

@jgassor has me pronouncing that like "leave-er" in my head. LOL


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post #20 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 04:07 PM
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Beware of the Master Cylinder...


2008 Red/Red/Redline
Ordered 06/08/07
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post #21 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 02:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
@jgassor has me pronouncing that like "leave-er" in my head. LOL
Only just read this Robo, hehe, there's hope for you yet if I can just get you to some additional vowels back into words like aluminium and favourite

Jim
Techo Gray 2008 Sky RL with Trifecta, DDM bracing/charge pipes and Hanh Intercooler
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post #22 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jgassor View Post
Only just read this Robo, hehe, there's hope for you yet if I can just get you to some additional vowels back into words like aluminium and favourite
Ah-Loo-Min-e-um I have got. LOL I have no idea how you pronounce Favorite yet but I have my suspicions.


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post #23 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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So a little update.

My clutch still is not holding full power (after almost 500 miles). I called Spec yesterday and they think it just needs to be broken in more. They said that when a clutch is new it will only hold around 60% of it's rated torque capacity before it gets fully broken-in. This does sound about right to me because most dynos say that the Trifecta gets about 300-310 ft lbs of torque to the wheels which is about 73% of the stage 3 rating (495 to the flywheel or 420 to the wheels). The clutch will hold most of what I throw at it, but not max torque (at about 2500rpms). I'm thinking it still needs more break-in. I'm also going to adjust the master out one more turn because I definitely think I'm getting a little clutch drag (not much but some).

I did a third and fourth low mph wot pull without the trifecta and the clutch does hold that nicely, so it does seem that it just needs more time (let's hope). Oh I should say also that as I'm driving it it does seem to be clamping better but just not at 100% yet.

Ugh! God I hope it just needs more time!!!!!
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post #24 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 05:56 PM
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Yep, I think about 1,000 miles is the true break in time of these clutches. Matt, do you have links to those dyno numbers? I don't think I've seen many trifecta dyno graphs.


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post #25 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Also, the other thing about what's going on is that when it starts to have problems in third or fourth it's really less of a slip initially and more of a chatter. So it chatters for about 500 rpms then catches. I didn't even know a pucked clutch could chatter at wot in third or fourth gear like that. I just hope it continues to improve because I always thought that pucked clutches didn't really need much break-in and held hard from the get go.

Anyway, here is link to monadzback's thread that has his dyno on a stock redline (like mine).

https://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f2...rifecta-33294/
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post #26 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 12:20 PM
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You shouldn't be stressing the clutch until after break in though according to Spec. I let mine get broke in over about 1,000 miles and when I hammer it now, there's no chatter and I'm at 280 ft/lbs to the wheels at the moment. While less than the 310 of the trifecta dyno, I'd expect to hear something if you're seeing that kind of chatter in fourth. Do you see any in 1-2?


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post #27 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Nope...nothing..
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post #28 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 02:08 PM
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Hmmmmm...so it is definitely something that is more obvious under heavier loads. Is it different depending on which RPM range you're in when you get on it in 4th or 5th?


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post #29 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Nope. As soon as the boost starts climbing all the way up to 22 or so at around 2000-2500 rpms it starts slipping. In the higher rpms it seems to be better though. I do think it has gotten better too. Also, adjusting the master cylinder out one turn did seem to help with the clutch grab. The shifter seems to go into gear much easier now, so I'm pretty sure the clutch is fully disengaging. I'm just going to keep at it. Spec told me that I should start getting progressively more aggressive with it, so right now I'm revving the gears out to about 4000rpms before shifting (not at wot). Hopefully it will start to come around.
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post #30 of 55 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 12:41 PM
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Yea, like I said mine wasn't really happy until I had about 1,000 miles in it driving So Cal commuter traffic.


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