This FMIC seems to have solved the P0101 and P2178 engine codes, as well as the poor performance, highly recommended! Stock FMIC was cracked at the drivers side end tank, and losing boost/metered air.
The top end after 5000 rpm doesn't lose as much power as with the stock intercooler
Lag is minimal, IAT2 temps are great even after back to back pulls.
I haven't seen 23 PSI for a long time until this was installed. It's good to be back!
- Vacuum out the FMIC, lot of aluminum shavings in there, as well as possibly packing peanuts.
- Use an old gift card or credit card so you can slide in between the rubber couplings. Spray some simple green cleaner, and it should break loose. Simple green will dry out and actually helps seal later... unlike WD40 or some other oil based lubricant.
- Watch Tim Ronok's excellent videos to get an understanding of what is involved.
- Watch Mark Davis's excellent GXP bumper removal video and FMIC installation (very similar construction between the Sky and Solstice)
RPM doesn't appear to supply any necessary parts so they are listed here
- M8 1.25 25mm bolts and washers x4 (for mounting FMIC to stock bracket)
- M6 1.0 35mm bolts and 20 washers (for extending the forward spacing for the two OEM brackets, stock bolts are only 25mm)
- 64 - 72mm Tbolt clamps x4 for stock IC couplings (you can use the stock worm drive ones, but they are weak)
- 73 - 83mm Tbolt clamps x2 for drivers side charge tube and throttle body
- Anti-seize to prevent galling and cross threading
- Cut-off wheels/Dremel/Grinder to cut out 1/4 circle in curb bracket, the drivers side discharge pipe will not clear
- Black paint to keep the cut metal from rusting, and touch up for splash shield bolts
Old bananas for scale haha
Longer M6 1.0 x 35mm bolts for bracket (get 20 SS washers as well)
Need 4 FMIC main mounting bolts as RPM threads the FMIC to M8 1.25 not factory M6 1.0. Get 4 washers as well and use anti-seize compound to prevent galling
You will need to cut the curb bracket to clear the drivers side FMIC outlet. You can just make out the cut out behind the FMIC.
FMIC mounted, ready for belly pan and front brackets.
M8 1.25 x 25mm bolts and washers, remember to flip the rubber isolator washers so it doesn't pop through the bracket.
The duct behind the FMIC did not need any modifications.
Put 1 washer between 35mm bolt and bracket, put 7+ washers behind bracket. This will extend the stock brackets forward enough to not interfere with the deeper FMIC, and not need any bending/reshaping.
Just enough clearance with the 7 washers and longer 35mm bolt.
64-72mm TBolt clamps from Napa work well for the stock couplers.
Complete. You should take the opportunity to adjust the panel gaps and align the bumper perfectly.