I am warning everyone up front, this is going to be a LONG one.
With a FE2 or FE3 front bar and the 6K front 7K rear with a rear ZOk bar I would start the BCs at the mid point both front and rear and then tweak from there. I only say that because I have never had that setup on my car and I know with just the 5Ks up front and the FE2 bar I need to have it full soft in front and full hard in rear. So, based on that, I'd start at a mid point and speculate I'd be going a bit softer in front and a bit harder in rear but knowing it is going to come down to how the car feels with that setup first.
For braking, you need to understand what you are doing when you brake. Most people feel it is to slow down but with autocross, that's not really the point. Yes, you're going to bleed off SOME speed but the main reason for the quick stab on the brakes is for weight transfer and the reason you do it in a straight line has to do with how much traction you have available in your front tires.
Think of your available traction of your front tires as a circle and, when the car is cruising at a constant speed, the dot representing how much traction you're using is at the center of that circle. We call it the traction circle. As you accelerate, this dot moves to the bottom of the circle. As you brake, it moves to the top. If you turn right, the dot moves to right side of the circle and if you turn left, it moves to the left. The maximum traction the tire can provide is defined by the outside edge of the circle. if the dot stays in the circle, you have traction...if it moves outside the circle, the tire has lost traction and is slipping instead of gripping. Slipping = push generally.
So...the other thing to note is the more weight you put on a tire, the more traction the tire can generate. The less weight on a tire, the less traction it can generate. So more weight equates a bigger traction circle and less weight means a smaller traction circle.
Now then, if you brake super hard but don't lock up the tires, your "dot" will rest on the upper edge of the circle. If you're turning really hard to the left, the dot will be on the left edge of the circle. If you do both at the same time, the dot will be completely off the circle to the top left...and you're pushing. Again, that's bad.
So remember I said we don't brake to slow down in autocross? What we're doing by braking hard is shifting the weight of the car onto the front tires. When you brake, and you feel the nose of the car drop, that's putting weight on the front tires and thus increasing their amount of available traction.
Your question was do you want to quickly stab the brakes and then let the front recover before turning and the answer, as you have probably already figured out, is NO! You do all your braking in a straight line because, when it comes time to turn, you wan to use as much of your traction circle for turning. If you're doing any braking, you are reducing how much turning you can do. So the technique should be just before you hit the spot where you want to turn into the corner, you stab your brakes quick and firm to shift that weight onto the front tires and get that traction circle really big. Then you let off your brake as you start initiating the turn in with your steering wheel.
With your foot off the brake you are no longer asking the front tires to use any of their grip to slow you down. Yet, by doing that just before starting your turn in, you have weighted the front tires thus increasing how much traction they have to make the turn.
Ride height is doing much of the same thing. You mention DDMs settings and while I have my car set to about 0.2" lower in front than rear, I can't comment on what is "correct". What I can say is that when you're moving a couch, always pick up your side before the other guy does. LOL The reason being is that whichever side of an object is lower, that side is carrying a higher percentage of the object's weight. So if your front end is slightly lower than the back, your front end is carrying slightly more weight (and thus the front tires have a slightly larger traction circle) than the back. Doing this reduces the car's tendency to squat (and push) under acceleration.
For my RE-71Rs, they like about 33 psi of pressure. If you're not using RE-71Rs, that info won't help you as each tire will have a different "sweet spot" for pressure.
When it comes to camber, remember the goal is to use as much of the tire tread as possible when cornering and have even usage. to check your camber, go out and do a session (2-3 laps) and then immediately take a temp gun and shoot the inside portion of the tread, the middle of the tread, and the outside portion of the tread across a straight line parallel to the ground. These temperatures should be within a degree of each other. If not, the tire is telling you something is wrong.
If you get a reading like this (from inside to outside): 120 115 110, the tire has too much negative camber as the inside edge of the tire is hotter than the middle, which is hotter than the outside edge.
If you get something like: 110 115 120 then you have too much positive camber as the tire is colder on the inside edge than the middle, which again is colder than the outside.
Now, you could get something like this too: 110 115 110. This is an overinflated tire where the center is higher than the edges. Underinflated is just the opposite: 115 110 115.
Where it gets tricky is if you have an overinflated tire with too much camber. Then it can look like: 115 115 110
Or too little camber: 110 115 115
Or underinflated with too much camber: 125 115 120
Or with too little camber: 115 110 125
I'd pick up a temp gun and just see where you're at with tire temps and see if that helps give you an idea of how close you are on your camber and pressure setups.