Blew Up MY Rear Differential Any Ideas Where I Can Get Another? - Page 3 - Saturn Sky Forums: Saturn Sky Forum
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post #31 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-26-2019, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
The Getrag information page wasn't as descriptive as i remembered. It lists the five ratios: 2.72/3.23/3.42/3.73/3.91 and indicates a torque range of 976-1580 Nm.
Gearboxes of any type are limited by the output torque that they can handle, so I used the min/max torque and the tall/short ratios to calculate an efficiency, then used that to build an interpolation table.
Converted to lb-ft the approximate input ratings are:
2.72==1165 lb-ft
3.23==921 lb-ft
3.42==855 lb-ft
3.73==764 lb-ft
3.91==720 lb-ft
36 ft/lbs isn't much so I doubt I'd go with 3.73 gears...but an extra 135 ft/lbs...might be interested in the STS Vs 3.42s.

Or just find some good aftermarket ring gears if anyone makes them.


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post #32 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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So...since my car is a 2007 redline I don't think it has the torque arm just the trans mount. Do you guys think the torque arm would help with wheel hop?
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post #33 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 11:55 AM
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So...since my car is a 2007 redline I don't think it has the torque arm just the trans mount. Do you guys think the torque arm would help with wheel hop?
I would visually inspect it to see if it has the torque arm or not. Easy to do just get a look under the car from the passenger side and you should be able to see the front of the diff case to see which design it is. If you can't get a good look at it sitting on the ground, just jack it up or get it on a lift.

Not sure if it will help with wheel hop. Just know it was installed to help with the back end getting squirrelly in a corner during a 1-2 shift (or 2-3 if you have enough power). I thought ALL Redlines had the torque arm.


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post #34 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 12:10 PM
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I would visually inspect it to see if it has the torque arm or not. Easy to do just get a look under the car from the passenger side and you should be able to see the front of the diff case to see which design it is. If you can't get a good look at it sitting on the ground, just jack it up or get it on a lift.

Not sure if it will help with wheel hop. Just know it was installed to help with the back end getting squirrelly in a corner during a 1-2 shift (or 2-3 if you have enough power). I thought ALL Redlines had the torque arm.
I don't understand how stabilizing the drive axle in an independent rear suspension can do anything for handling, since it is completely isolated from the wheels. I understood that it was installed to eliminate the "clunk" that would potentially have been worse with the higher power of the turbocharged engine.

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post #35 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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I don't understand how stabilizing the drive axle in an independent rear suspension can do anything for handling, since it is completely isolated from the wheels. I understood that it was installed to eliminate the "clunk" that would potentially have been worse with the higher power of the turbocharged engine.
Do you know if all Redlines had the torque arm John?

Cuz mine clunked like a sonofabitch! Everytime I put it in 1st gear!

I need to know what to look for too to see what the difference is. It's at my mechanic's as well so it will be them that have to look for it, and tell me.
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post #36 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know if this will help tell you when in 2006-2007 my car was built and if it was built after the torque arm change over but here is my vin number: 1G8MG35X07Y124196
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post #37 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 02:06 PM
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I don't understand how stabilizing the drive axle in an independent rear suspension can do anything for handling, since it is completely isolated from the wheels. I understood that it was installed to eliminate the "clunk" that would potentially have been worse with the higher power of the turbocharged engine.
That's what we were told at the time and I didn't question it much.

What I do know is that when I shift, the back end wiggles just a bit then gets back in line. Happens if you shift in a turn and not nearly as noticeable (if at all) if you shift while going in a straight line. Did this as a 2.4 NA...does it now. I have the early style without the torque arm.

I have driven a Redline and no such wiggle at a shift point with traction control completely off (specifically to eliminate traction control being a factor since my 2.4 doesn't have it at all).

I never had a clunk nor do I have a clunk now. Never had a clunk in my first NA 2007 early build car either (also no torque arm).

I never delve deeper into it as I had no plans on changing it...for autocross you only shift into second once and rarely ever change out of that gear from there so no big deal. I always thought it had something to do with the torque of the driveshaft deflecting the diff case just enough to cause an axle or axles to bind momentarily when going from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration while turning. Since it only happened while turning and accelerating hard, figured it was just enough to break traction for a split second and make the back wiggle then recover when the diff case returned to it's normal position.


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post #38 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MattM View Post
Do you know if all Redlines had the torque arm John?

Cuz mine clunked like a sonofabitch! Everytime I put it in 1st gear!

I need to know what to look for too to see what the difference is. It's at my mechanic's as well so it will be them that have to look for it, and tell me.
I doubt that clunk is the Torque Arm. If you're putting it into first, chances are you are stopped. Driveshaft isn't turning thus it's not going to put any force on the differential.

The torque arm should be on every Redline. (Did a Google search since I wasn't positive before.) It was introduced to the NA cars before the Redlines were released. This is one more difference between the early build 2007 NA Skys and later build 2007 NA Skys.


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post #39 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MattM View Post
Do you know if all Redlines had the torque arm John?

Cuz mine clunked like a sonofabitch! Everytime I put it in 1st gear!

I need to know what to look for too to see what the difference is. It's at my mechanic's as well so it will be them that have to look for it, and tell me.
Like Robo, I have never heard of a RL without a torque arm. The difference is a big beam parallel to the propeller shaft that connects the drive axle to the transmission instead of having the nose of the drive axle bolted to the chassis.

Expanding on Robo's answer, the clunk (at least in my '07 NA) occurs when the driveline unloads and then loads again during a shift from 2nd to 3rd. I have not heard it any other time, and my RL doesn't do it at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
That's what we were told at the time and I didn't question it much.

What I do know is that when I shift, the back end wiggles just a bit then gets back in line. Happens if you shift in a turn and not nearly as noticeable (if at all) if you shift while going in a straight line. Did this as a 2.4 NA...does it now. I have the early style without the torque arm.

I have driven a Redline and no such wiggle at a shift point with traction control completely off (specifically to eliminate traction control being a factor since my 2.4 doesn't have it at all).

I never had a clunk nor do I have a clunk now. Never had a clunk in my first NA 2007 early build car either (also no torque arm).

I never delve deeper into it as I had no plans on changing it...for autocross you only shift into second once and rarely ever change out of that gear from there so no big deal. I always thought it had something to do with the torque of the driveshaft deflecting the diff case just enough to cause an axle or axles to bind momentarily when going from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration while turning. Since it only happened while turning and accelerating hard, figured it was just enough to break traction for a split second and make the back wiggle then recover when the diff case returned to it's normal position.
I don't know enough about this to contradict you, I just can't quite grasp the mechanics of it. I assume that the RL didn't have a ProBeam? My NA with a ProBeam was more stable that the RL before I added one to it, and both had what i would describe as a wriggle before I installed it, although it also showed up when transitioning in and out of turns.

Just as an aside, I think that the Probeam is the single most important modification you can make to one of these cars.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
I doubt that clunk is the Torque Arm. If you're putting it into first, chances are you are stopped. Driveshaft isn't turning thus it's not going to put any force on the differential.

The torque arm should be on every Redline. (Did a Google search since I wasn't positive before.) It was introduced to the NA cars before the Redlines were released. This is one more difference between the early build 2007 NA Skys and later build 2007 NA Skys.
I agree with this.

John
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Last edited by JohnWR; 09-27-2019 at 03:34 PM.
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post #40 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MattM View Post
I don't know if this will help tell you when in 2006-2007 my car was built and if it was built after the torque arm change over but here is my vin number: 1G8MG35X07Y124196
1/18/2007 FWIW.



.

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post #41 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
I don't know enough about this to contradict you, I just can't quite grasp the mechanics of it. I assume that the RL didn't have a ProBeam? My NA with a ProBeam was more stable that the RL before I added one to it, and both had what i would describe as a wriggle before I installed it, although it also showed up when transitioning in and out of turns.
My first car did it without the ProBeam and my current car does it with and without. Definitely an improvement with the ProBeam. I have drove an RL with and without the ProBeam...both were far more stable under those conditions.

Like I said, have no idea whether or not what we were told was true...just what we were told and what I've experienced.


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post #42 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 05:56 PM
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My first car did it without the ProBeam and my current car does it with and without. Definitely an improvement with the ProBeam. I have drove an RL with and without the ProBeam...both were far more stable under those conditions.

Like I said, have no idea whether or not what we were told was true...just what we were told and what I've experienced.
It certainly seems to be true, I just haven't been able to understand why it works. Clearly more study is needed.

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post #43 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-29-2019, 12:12 PM
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Just as an aside, I think that the Probeam is the single most important modification you can make to one of these cars.
I Installed the Pro Beam first, without the backbone brace and drove my Sky that way for about a year.
To me, it was a night and day difference. Significantly increased the ability of the rear wheels to put the power to the pavement.

I agree completely with your statement.

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post #44 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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I Installed the Pro Beam first, without the backbone brace and drove my Sky that way for about a year.
To me, it was a night and day difference. Significantly increased the ability of the rear wheels to put the power to the pavement.

I agree completely with your statement.
I'm almost thinking mine doesn't have to torque arm, but diff bracket (the new diff Im getting comes with the four bolt bracket). Would the pro beam help me with regard to wheel hop?

Just read Robo's and Jon's replies...I'll just have that extra nose bracket with my diff, and they will have to take it off to bolt it to the torque arm then.

Last edited by MattM; 10-01-2019 at 01:20 PM.
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post #45 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 07:22 PM
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To me, I felt like I could put my HP down to the pavement better. It really makes the point where the diff connects more solid and from a dead stop, It seemed to hook better and in turns, under hard acceleration, it eliminated wheel spin I used to have before it.

There is a reason the SCCA winning Solstice's had a similar beam. It works.

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