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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch dead after 7k miles

Forum,
I have a Redline which has been sitting for 5 to 6 months.
The reason it was sitting so long it was because my waste gate actuator snapped and I finally got around to fixing it.
Now that I fixed that problem, I got a new one...my clutch is slipping.
The current clutch I have installed is a Spec Stage 2+ and an matching aluminum flywheel.
That should be more than what is needed for the power the car is pushing.
Dave installed it so I have no question on the reliability of the install.
The reason I bring up the fixing of the waste gate actuator is because I never had clutch issues before.
Now it slips every time I press the gas a little too hard.
Is there something I should do before I take it somewhere to get checked.
Thanks
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018, 05:45 PM
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Either something on the disk or something is wrong that wasn't before but from just sitting you shouldn't have issues like this. Contact Spec or DDM.


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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018, 05:52 PM
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I just saw your update in the Turbo thread and read this:

Quote:
08 Sky with a Werks turbo kit (either the 6258 or 6758, cant remember)...I was getting 28 psi and pushing around 400hp
I was shooting for 400whp and have a Spec Stage 3+ clutch because the Spec Stage 2+ couldn't handle that kind of power. I think you may have found the problem. You may have something on the clutch but the Spec Stage 2+ I don't think is designed to handle that kind of power output...even the one for the Redline (which holds more than the one for the NA).


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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paakaash View Post
Forum,
I have a Redline which has been sitting for 5 to 6 months.
The reason it was sitting so long it was because my waste gate actuator snapped and I finally got around to fixing it.
Now that I fixed that problem, I got a new one...my clutch is slipping.
The current clutch I have installed is a Spec Stage 2+ and an matching aluminum flywheel.
That should be more than what is needed for the power the car is pushing.
Dave installed it so I have no question on the reliability of the install.
The reason I bring up the fixing of the waste gate actuator is because I never had clutch issues before.
Now it slips every time I press the gas a little too hard.
Is there something I should do before I take it somewhere to get checked.
Thanks
Not sure, but with the car sitting for awhile, you can build up some rust on the surface of the clutch that will cause it to slip, how many miles have you driven it since fixing the wastegate? Also, was this [email protected] Autowerks that did the install? Just wondering which Dave, since we do not typically install SPEC clutches anymore.

Thanks!
Dave

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018, 07:37 AM
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Are you sure you don't have an oil leak? Like maybe a rear main seal (pretty common on the LNF)? I have an issue when I first bring mine out of storage for about 1k miles and then it goes away. I do have several drops of oil on the ground back by the transmission and when I replaced my HPFP last summer, I could see the oil leak at the back of the motor. Basically there is no seal between the transmission and the block and if you have a big enough oil leak, or it sits long enough, the oil will get through that space and can get on your clutch. Eventually your clutch will become oil soaked and you will have to replace it if it's leaking bad enough.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
I just saw your update in the Turbo thread and read this:



I was shooting for 400whp and have a Spec Stage 3+ clutch because the Spec Stage 2+ couldn't handle that kind of power. I think you may have found the problem. You may have something on the clutch but the Spec Stage 2+ I don't think is designed to handle that kind of power output...even the one for the Redline (which holds more than the one for the NA).

This is definitely something I was worried about, specially because I think its pushing a little over 400 whp.
I didn't do most of the work on this car. I bought it like this from someone named Eric Dunn which I'm not sure if he is on the forum.
I still have contact with him and he has been really helpful in all of the questions I have asked since buying the car. He told me that he worked closely with Spec and they told him that the stage 2+ could handle the power he was putting down.
If I need to change it to a Spec 3+ that is not a problem, but do you know how much it will cost me to get it installed?
Thanks
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Not sure, but with the car sitting for awhile, you can build up some rust on the surface of the clutch that will cause it to slip, how many miles have you driven it since fixing the wastegate? Also, was this [email protected] Autowerks that did the install? Just wondering which Dave, since we do not typically install SPEC clutches anymore.

Thanks!
Dave
I have heard that with the car sitting, specially here in NC where the temperature fluctuates so much, it could happen.
I have driven it less than 300 miles since fixing it, but I didn't have a problem when I first moved it, it started happening really bad this past weekend.
Also, sorry for the confusion, Dave Gilbert was the one that installed the turbo. As I stated above, when I bought the car, most of the work was done so I'm relying on the last owner for most of the information. Im not sure who installed the clutch.
That being said, I will drive it lightly over the next few days and see if something changes.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Are you sure you don't have an oil leak? Like maybe a rear main seal (pretty common on the LNF)? I have an issue when I first bring mine out of storage for about 1k miles and then it goes away. I do have several drops of oil on the ground back by the transmission and when I replaced my HPFP last summer, I could see the oil leak at the back of the motor. Basically there is no seal between the transmission and the block and if you have a big enough oil leak, or it sits long enough, the oil will get through that space and can get on your clutch. Eventually your clutch will become oil soaked and you will have to replace it if it's leaking bad enough.
Definitely something I will look into!
I haven't seen any oil spots in my driveway, but when I turned the car back on after sitting for a while I did smell a little oil burning.
I will also drive it a little longer to see if the problem is still there.
Thanks
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018, 11:05 AM
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Drive it for a bit and see if it gets better. Just go easy with it. If it doesn't it may be time to see what power you're putting down and if the clutch just isn't rated for that power. 400whp is pretty substantial and I just don't believe the Spec2+ is rated for that on the LNF.


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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018, 12:52 PM
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Do you have internals done to the motor? If not, that's another area you need to be careful with as the bottom of these motors (rods, pistons, etc) are only good for about 400hp at the crank.

Last edited by The_Ghost; 02-15-2018 at 08:47 AM.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have internals done to the motor? If not, that's another area you need to be careful with as the bottom of these motors (rods, crank, etc) are only good for about 400hp at the crank.
I don't believe the motor has had anything done to it.
LS swap it???
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-14-2018, 01:37 PM
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This is the first I've heard the crank is only good to 400 BHP. I have heard rods and pistons are good to about 450 WHP but I've never heard anything about a limit on the crank.

(For OP, 400 whp = apx. 487 bhp and 400 bhp = apx 328 whp. BHP is horsepower at the crank...our cars have about a 18% loss over the drivetrain.)


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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-15-2018, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Forum,
I drove the car a little more yesterday and thought I would update you on everything that feels different.
-The first thing is the clutch has become very sensitive. As before the clutch would engage halfway through, now I barely have to put any force down for me to be able to change gears.
-Changing gears makes no noise whatsoever...it is just as smooth as before.
-I can only lightly press the gas on every gear. If the boost goes over 0 psi, the revs go up and I can feel it slipping.
-2nd gear is probably the worst. The car shakes when I go a little too hard on the gas.
-I dont hear any grinding when the clutch slips (I might be too focused on the rpms going up though)
Ill update as I drive it more.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-15-2018, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by paakaash View Post
Forum,
I drove the car a little more yesterday and thought I would update you on everything that feels different.
-The first thing is the clutch has become very sensitive. As before the clutch would engage halfway through, now I barely have to put any force down for me to be able to change gears.
-Changing gears makes no noise whatsoever...it is just as smooth as before.
-I can only lightly press the gas on every gear. If the boost goes over 0 psi, the revs go up and I can feel it slipping.
-2nd gear is probably the worst. The car shakes when I go a little too hard on the gas.
-I dont hear any grinding when the clutch slips (I might be too focused on the rpms going up though)
Ill update as I drive it more.
Soooo.....I have a question. When you accelerate, do the engine RPMs go up without speed increase? If not, then it's not your clutch. If so, then you have a slipping clutch. Furthermore, your higher gears should slip worse then your lower gears. My RPMs will jump from 3k to 5k almost instantly in 3rd gear but my speed won't jump that fast when mine slips under about 3/4 throttle. Mine doesn't slip at all in 1st and 2nd. My guess is that you might of have lost some springs on the clutch. You said it's only 7k old? Have you ever drag raced the car at the track? This will destroy a clutch if you just dump it on the starting line.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-15-2018, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Soooo.....I have a question. When you accelerate, do the engine RPMs go up without speed increase? If not, then it's not your clutch. If so, then you have a slipping clutch. Furthermore, your higher gears should slip worse then your lower gears. My RPMs will jump from 3k to 5k almost instantly in 3rd gear but my speed won't jump that fast when mine slips under about 3/4 throttle. Mine doesn't slip at all in 1st and 2nd. My guess is that you might of have lost some springs on the clutch. You said it's only 7k old? Have you ever drag raced the car at the track? This will destroy a clutch if you just dump it on the starting line.
Correct. When I accelerate the rpm's go up without any speed increase. To the point that it will redline if I dont let go.
My lower gears are slipping more than my higher gears. As I stated, 2nd gear makes the car stutter really hard.
Never drag raced...will not say I have not drove it hard before. That being said, I do not drive it all the time.
If I did lose some springs in the clutch, what specifically should I look for?
Thanks

Last edited by paakaash; 02-15-2018 at 01:16 PM.
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