i was travelling to my high school reunion when the dic read reduced power and it slowed down.
stopped and checked under hood,all seemed good.shut off and restarted and car performed
properly but check engine light was on.stopped at gm garage and they pulled codes
p0089 and code p0087.we cleared codes and has run perfect since.just wondering
if there is anything to worry about or should i get more diagnostics done at my gm garage ?
thanks for any info,going to search the forums now.
If you can change oil, you can change the HPFP. It's not hard. I'll help you out a bit and maybe save you the trip to the dealer. Smell your oil. Does it smell like gas? If so, it's the HPFP. Mine was a bit different in that I was getting p2188 - too rich at idle......so mine was leaking gas into my oil for a while. Here's my link on how to replace it. Like I said, if you can change oil, you can do this, it's very easy.
You can take the car to the dealer, they will install a new pump and you will pay somewhere between $900 and $1100 depending on their price structure. And you will have a one year warranty on the labor and the part.
Or you can go to various sources and buy a pump for between $290 and $310 - eBay price and Amazon price - and do the install yourself.
I watched Dr Dave (DDM Works) pull a bad pump out of one car, pull a good pump out of a car on a trailer, and do two installs along the side of the road in under an hour. On the way to the Nationals in Washington State two years ago.
Pull the wiper arms, pull the cowl, crack the high pressure fitting on the pump to relieve pressure, remove the bad pump, install the new pump, replace cowl and wipers. Drive the car.
If you do it your self, they also recommend that you replace the gaskets and mounting bolts. If you buy a replacement new pump, mine came with the mounting bolts and I spare the gaskets.
We discovered that GM had ONE HPFP in inventory in Washington, Oregon, and Idaho. One. And it was over $600 just for the part.
I now carry three spare HPFPs in the truck when we travel over the road with the club.
thanks to roboteck,the_ghost and rob the elder for your feedback.
i have a good relationship with my gm garage as i worked there a long time
so i know everybody and they know me.i get employee labour rate and cost plus 10
on my parts.i do all my automotivestuff through them,including my order of a
2018 chev silverado z71 4x4 reg cab shortbox.so as i am inept at mechanics
i will let them handle it all.wish i had some of your guys mechanical skill to attempt
stuff like this.as usual this forum continues to rock !!!!
Just be aware that you can get the pump on ebay or from ZZPerformance for about 1/2 of what the dealership will charge. I called my dealer that I deal with all the time and was told $625. Which means cost for them is about $300. I bought mine from ZZP for $205. Given, it's a "takeoff" from a new motor, but I don't care about that. As long as it's new! My dealer also wanted another $400 for labor.
I have 2008 Redline, manual, 34,000 miles. Only powertrain mod is a Trifecta tune. Driving home Thursday night I throw a CEL and get the reduced power message, so had to drive in limp home mode for about 15 miles. Stored codes are P0087, P0089 and P2188. After clear, only P0087 returns, immediately. Checking the forums points at the HPFP. I learned one of the symptoms is fuel in the crankcase. Sure enough, dipstick is reading a little high and I can smell gas on it. So I see a fuel pump chainge in my future, but is an oil and filter change sufficient to get the oil out of the crankcase?
I've done the HPFP on mine...twice!! It's an hour job! Probably the simplist job you can do other then the oil. Order a HPFP from ZZPerformance for $199 (dealer's gonna charge you $600 for the pump!!). The hardest part is removing the cowling.... I changed my oil 3 times within 500 miles of doing the pump and now I've done it once this last year...it still smells like gas. One other quick symptom of a bad hpfp is an erratic, non-rythmatic tick of the hpfp.... If you have any questions, pm me and if you decide to tackle this, I'll give you my number. It is extremely simple. I'm in SE MI too so if it gets too touch, I can come help you....
Here's where I was deciding what needed to be done:
Wow...thanks for the links and encouragement. I found the $199 pump at ZZ and should have it by Friday. Oddly enough, exactly 2 years ago, after just 4 weeks of ownership, my water pump failed. Took that one on myself and has held up 4000 miles. But will let you know if I need any help... thanks! Btw... if you happened to be at the Woodward drive on Thursday, I was on my way home from that when the pump failed. And you're right, I thought the normal ticking sound had changed, one more indication it was the pump.
If you can do the WP, the HPFP is like changing a tire....it's very simple. And like I said, if you run into any questions, I'll PM you my phone number and email address....
Done! Oil change took longer than the pump change. I had Loctite to use, but didn't realize I hadn't gotten a new gasket with the pump. Old one looked in good shape so reused it. No leaks, and no codes right from the get-go, and back up to 23 PSI boost. I'll take this over the water pump any day! Hate to ask, but what's the next 'common problem' I can expect to run into now?!? Thanks again for the help offer.
I just got an hpfp solenoid valve stuck along with low fuel pressure code. Time to replace the hpfp. The engine oil was very clean when I purchased it at 70k miles and window sticker indicated it was just changed. I wonder if it was synthetic or the cheapest crap. I only use Mobile-1 15k mile extended performance in my other vehicles and never had a problem with water pump or hpfp in any of them. I drove the car slightly over 1000 miles since purchase. I believe the the very close tolerances require the best lubrication.
Large bottle of Chevron Techron and 40 miles cleared the hpfp stuck valve. Running great now.
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