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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Ksport CST010-KP Kontrol Pro Damper System

Was checking out options still available, wanted Eibach's but couldn't find for Redline.
With 62k miles, figured it's a good time to refresh struts and springs/bushings before I can't find them anymore.

Ran across these Ksport coilovers on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVT2KK4/

The price was too good to pass up ($490.69), though right after purchasing it more than doubled! They arrive Tuesday if the order isn't cancelled for some price mistake, just don't know much about them.

Anyone running these on their Sky? Looks like the part number is CPT010-KP for the Pontiac GXP, assuming they are very similar. On WRX/BRZ/EVO they seem to have good feedback.

I don't AutoX anymore, but do tend to have fun on drives (within the speed limits, though not the g-force limits all the time).

Was going to get the probeam/backbone/front bar from DDMWorks, but now that budget went to these... next month.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Got the chance to install these over the weekend, takes about 2 hours per corner including adjusting the ride height and corner weighting.

How to remove shocks, and lift the car safely, and install the new adjustable Ksport coilovers.

Lifting notes:
Use pucks and a slim jack to not damage the rocker panels. Stabilize the rear and or front of the car with jack stands on the jacking points.

Front: For the front I jacked up on the control arm using a puck and placed jack stands with more pucks on the reinforced area just behind the tire. Make sure to use wheel chocks so the car won't roll once in the air. Before lifting, you may want to loosen the front lug nuts a tiny bit, or have someone step on the brake when in the air.

Rear: Jack up on the flat area on the rear of the control arm, it will lift both wheels off the ground so it's easier than the front. Secure with stands and pucks on the flat area on the front of the rear control arms. With the ebrake on, you can loosen the lug nuts. Don't use the differential to jack up the car.

Remove the wheels.

FRONT: (both wheels off the ground)
1. Remove the two 13mm caliper guide bolts on the back of the caliper and hang the caliper on the control arm (the u shaped channel on the caliper fits perfectly). The pads will stay on the rotor.
2.Loosen the two upper shock mounting nuts (15mm) on the top of the shock tower and take off the nuts below the two lower shock mounting bolts on the lower control arm (13mm bolts with 14 mm nuts).
3. Loosen both swaybar links in the front side of the control arm keeping the joint from turning with a metric allen wrench (18mm nut and 5 mm allen wrench). Turning the swaybar joints can damage the joint and the control arm mating surface. Swing the joint of the way and the swaybar is loose.
4. Loosen the (18mm nut) upper ball joint keeping the ball joint from turning with a 5mm allen wrench. The upper joint came off with virtually no force needed. (you do not need to do lower joints). If it does not immediately come apart it may be necessary to tap the joint out, you can thread the nut back on so it's flush with the allen key hole, and tap with a hammer. Use penetrating oil if it doesn't come apart with light taps.
5 .Lower the lower control arm down to the bottom of it's swing.
6. Remove the lower shock mounting bolts and work the shock assembly out towards the rear of the vehicle while holding up the upper control arm.
7. Work the new shock assembly in from the same direction the old came out.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. When finished retorque all fasteners.

REAR: (both wheels off the ground)
1. Remove the toe link nut (mine didn't spin but if it spins, you must not let it with a 5mm allen key). The toe link is similar to the front tie rod. Pop the toe link balljoint by tapping on it lightly with a hammer. Don't loosen the jamb nut that is on the toe link rod.
2. Remove the 2 lower nuts at the bottom of the control arm for the bolts that connect the lower part of the shock.
3. Remove the 2 lower bolts.
4. Remove the upper shock mounting nuts (15mm). A closed end ratchet wrench works best - you have to get to them from the wheel well, and the tub is very close to the shock mount studs.
5. Push down on the suspension, and you will have enough room to wiggle the shock out the rear of the vehicle.
6. Work the new shock assembly in from the same direction the old came out.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. I used a jack to lift and mate the toe link joint when tightening. When finished retorque all fasteners.

Next post will be more specific to the Ksport's themselves.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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The Ksports come packaged nicely, and have a bag with a bunch of unnecessary and necessary parts. Look through the manual and read the warnings and tips... however they are a bit generic for all types of applications at once.

Measure and record your stock height by using a flat ruler across the top of the tire, and another ruler vertically against the fender arch. My stock height was 50mm front, and 67mm rear, yours will vary.

1. Inspect the new shocks to make sure you have all the corners, they are marked with the label on the top of the shock tower.
2. Unscrew the adjustable bottom parts off, and mark off the 30mm minimum thread engagement with a metal pen (silver sharpie will work). You cannot raise the car higher than this mark.
3. Make sure the 2 upper locking collars are snug to the spring, but with no preload (meaning the spring can still rotate independent of the shock body).
4. Lock the 2 upper collars against each other using the supplied wrenches, you won't be touching these again. Mark the thread on the shock body and collar to inspect later to see if they are loose.

5. Put dielectric grease on the shaft of the adjusters, and all around at the top under the plastic knob to make sure dirt and water doesn't get in.
5a. Turn the adjuster knobs clockwise until they stop (mine were set at 3 ticks below full stiff, and thats a good starting point. Back them off 3 ticks (softer).

6. Using a metal pen or silver sharpie, mark a long line in a thread at 30mm for the fronts, and 50mm for the rears.
6a. The front lower mount point will go in to 30mm (or more if you want the car lower, but you can adjust that later). This will be about a 15mm drop from stock height.
6b. The rear will go in to 50mm (I adjusted even lower once the shock was mounted, but this is a good starting point). This mark will be about a 20mm drop from stock height, and will reduce the stock rake to be more even.

7. Place some anti-seize and thread the lower mount points back on to the marks you put in respectively.

Mount the shocks, lower the car, and measure. If you have to adjust, raise the front or rear, mark the shock body so you can count half turns. Each half turn seems to be about 1.5mm.

Always rotate the shock body using the two locking collars and the supplied wrenches. You want to use the upper or lower collar to make the body thread in (lower) or out (raise). Make sure to think about which way the wrench will tighten each collar to each other and use that motion.

Once you are satisfied with the right height, use a flat head screw driver and tap with a hammer to lock the lower locking collar (not the ones holding the spring). You don't want to use the wrench to lock the "jamb nut" action on this ring. Mark the locking ring with the sharpie against the threads to make sure it's not moving during later inspections.

The adjusters can stay in the shock (remember the grease). You can just reach them in the rear wheel well, and for the fronts you can easily adjust from inside the engine bay. You can't easily remove any of them except for the drivers front.

For now, I'm at:
Before (stock wheel to fender gap)

Front 50mm
Rear 67mm

After

Front 35mm
Rear 39mm

3 ticks less than full stiff.

Corner weights after lowering, lightened battery, and lighter wheels (53% front / 47% rear):
Front Drivers = 830lbs
Front Passenger = 820lbs
Rear Drivers = 730lbs
Rear passenger = 725lbs
Total weight with me in the car, 1/4 tank of gas, 3105lbs.

Doesn't scrape on my driveway, but I may be raising it a little down the road.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Pics!

Lowered:


Stock:


Ksport coilovers:


Stock rear strut removal (toe link disconnected, lower bolts removed, can see how to remove)


Other rear side, fully removed


New Ksport installed (rear, monster truck height... use the instructions above to get closer to normal before installing... or you will be measuring and turning that collar a lot)
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 09:31 AM
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Nice!

Thank you for the writeup (now bookmarked!)
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Owner of "Campbelle", a Brazen 2008 GXP ... with mods piling up...
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 09:41 AM
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Yeah, great writeup! This is what makes the forums the place to go for info on our cars.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 10:35 AM
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Looks good sir and nice write up. This would be about the same for most coil overs that are designed like this like the BC coils too.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a280z View Post
The price was too good to pass up ($490.69), though right after purchasing it more than doubled!
So how much did you end up paying for them? Because they come up as $1020.00 now.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a280z View Post
The price was too good to pass up ($490.69), though right after purchasing it more than doubled!
Agree, nice write-up. So how much did you end up paying for them? Because they come up as $1020.00 now.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! $490.69... no idea why or how that happened. I would probably pay up to $800 for them, otherwise only have a budget for springs and new shocks. The adjustability and construction is pretty nice.
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a280z View Post
Thanks! $490.69... no idea why or how that happened. I would probably pay up to $800 for them, otherwise only have a budget for springs and new shocks. The adjustability and construction is pretty nice.
Yea, that's a steal for a new set of coil overs. Love deals like that.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Dropping the corners from 3 clicks to full stiff to 6 clicks made a world of difference. The back would unsettle on smooth swales, which could be dangerous. Ride quality improved, almost like stock felt like but still sporty.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 12:55 PM
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Very good write up.

I have seen mention of these on other boards and this is one review:

Quote:
I'd recommend going with something higher quality. Factory support is spotty, shock valving is more "off/on" than "36-way" and values of "on" may vary, and they're a bit fragile. I broke the front camber plates on mine and my mechanic has seen broken coilover bodies with the same model on heavier cars.

If I could go back in time and tell myself to spend more on a good set of ISCs or KWs or something I'd do it. They'll pretty much get the job done in terms of performance but they'll become a PITA later and you'll spend the difference on repairs.
I can see why you jumped at them at the original price, but the revised price is in line with others including the BC Racing, which have had very few negatives posted. I hope you experience turns out to be a good one and thanks for the review..
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-31-2019, 09:28 PM
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How have the Ksports been holding up? Their spring rates at 14K front and 12K back seems much higher than the 6K or 7K on BC coilovers...
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-05-2019, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopDown13 View Post
How have the Ksports been holding up? Their spring rates at 14K front and 12K back seems much higher than the 6K or 7K on BC coilovers...
Hi Steve,

Well made, however they may be more suited to track, auto-x, and smooth road spirited driving rather than daily driving. One adjustment for damping and rebound introduces compromise; I wish I could leave the damping where it is, and increase the rebound a bit. I've found it to be good half way (16 clicks down from 1-32 range, all around)

I think if you put the 12k spring rate springs up front, and get 10k in the rear ($50), it would be better suited for daily driving. I'm actually considering it. I had some harmonic issues, which made me think the rates are actually 12k or 14k all around but haven't inspected that close since install. Will let you know if the marking on both springs are the same (should not be but never took clear picture or compared front and back, just left and right).

At $5-600, I would recommend. Over that maybe something else could be better depending on your use.

Plus side of having springs that stiff is flat cornering, and no bottoming out or rub. Downside is some larger bumps appear to unsettle the car. Roads around here are not that great. Back in Illinois these would work well as is for daily. Small bumps and irregular road/cracks are much like factory. No new noises or rattles were introduced. Looking at that center tunnel brace and rear brace now.
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