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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Need blower current draw spec

I have an 08 Saturn Sky and the blower motor stopped working on high again. First the orange wire got burnt and I fixed it. Now a year later it stopped working again but this time the black wire going to the white connector where it goes to the blower motor relay and control unit got burnt.

Was looking to see if anyone knew what the current draw specs for the blower motor are? There's no way for me to get another connector so I'm going to have to cut the wires and splice them. Need to try and fix it so I won't be burning up a major component that can't be replaced next time.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 10:38 AM
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Believe it or not this is more common than you'd think. The Hummer H2 (Pretty sure it was the H2...may have been the H3) uses the same HVAC blower and got a recall because of this. I would look do a search on the H2 issues, see how GM fixed it, and go that route. We never got that recall as the issue in our cars were never as huge as they were with the H2.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 11:50 AM
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It was the H3. This is the situation as reported on one of their forums:
Quote:
From what was posted on "another" site, the new resistor is much larger than the old one. It was explained that the original smaller resistor generated a lot of heat at lower fan settings. That heat in turn weakened the spring contacts in the connector. Then, when the fan was used at the higher speeds, the higher amperage would arc due to the weakened contacts. Supposedly, the new, larger resistor generates much less heat, and in turn does not weaken the contacts in the connector.
In reality the larger resistor is going to generate just as much heat, but its size will help it dissipate that heat better, so the temperature will be lower, and it will not damage the connector.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Would still like to know what the spec is if possible. Let's say it is the blower motor I see them ranging $50 to $150 online. None of those would happen to be one of the bad ones that the H2 or H3 would have had? I would hope not.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
Believe it or not this is more common than you'd think. The Hummer H2 (Pretty sure it was the H2...may have been the H3) uses the same HVAC blower and got a recall because of this. I would look do a search on the H2 issues, see how GM fixed it, and go that route. We never got that recall as the issue in our cars were never as huge as they were with the H2.
No, this seems to be a new failure mode - at least to me. Yes the resistor connectors burn out a fair bit, but I've never seen the connector into the HVAC controller burn out before. This connector just goes to a high current manual switch in the controller. There's no resistor or other circuitry to generate heat. Very strange.

Sorry to the OP, no idea what the current draw is on the blower - though I'm not sure how that knowledge would help, either.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
No, this seems to be a new failure mode - at least to me. Yes the resistor connectors burn out a fair bit, but I've never seen the connector into the HVAC controller burn out before. This connector just goes to a high current manual switch in the controller. There's no resistor or other circuitry to generate heat. Very strange.

Sorry to the OP, no idea what the current draw is on the blower - though I'm not sure how that knowledge would help, either.
Oh wow...Well you and John are the resident electrical gurus so OP, these are the guys to listen to with this.


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Knowing the current draw and testing it will determine if there is a damaging component in the system. Say the spec is 18 amps and its reading 28 amps something is drawing too much current resulting in burning say wire, plug or something very expensive. It wouldn't blow the fuse unless it went over the rating.

Looked into the H3 recall. Seems to be the resistor that was the problem. When I was looking through the forum before posting this everyone was saying something about their blower motor being the problem. Now I don't know what I should buy. Id buy everything if one of the $50 motors would work but if the $150 is the one I need I'll have to save up for it.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 02:11 PM
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So, it looks like there are two different HVAC blower motor related issues.

Although I do not have a current spec for the fan I will, if it will help, see if I can put an ammeter on both of mine tonight to see what they read.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry been busy. I don't want you to go through a lot of trouble but that would be awesome. Maybe knowing would be a good thing on the forum or maybe you'll find out there might be a problem with yours. I would like to say it should be 15 to 18 amps anymore could be a problem. I haven't wired mine back up to see what kind of draw I have.

I was going to go to a junk yard and look for that plug that burnt before cutting my wires up. Knowing I'll never find a sky any ideas as to what I may find one on? Could be a common plug. I was going to buy a resistor but I don't know if the current one on the GM parts site is the fixed one or the old one that's getting too hot.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 01:36 PM
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My fuse breakout cable has gone missing so I couldn't get a direct reading. These were done with a clamp-on at the battery cable.
I checked both cars and got pretty similar readings, so I am going to assume decent accuracy.
The baseline reading is with the ignition on, headlights and radio both switched off, then I stepped the fan through its four speeds.
0--3.9--4.1
1--7.0--7.1
2-10.1--9.8
3-15.8-14.4
4-21.4-19.0

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 08:57 PM
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Should be roughly 20amps for nearly all makes.

20amp+inrush will blow up most direct meters, but you can create a mV shunt out of a standard fuse to measure current.

The J-case fuse is rated for 30a, so it should blow.
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