Hey guys, I am doing the timing chains and having a heck of a time getting the crank pulley bolt loose. My impact hasnt done anything (its using a u joint and extension so not max leverage) and I am hesitant to use my 3ft breaker since the pulley itself is very hard to brace. Any ideas? Ways to brace pulley better to prevent engine from turning backwards?
How many miles on your car and why do the timing chains need replacement? You need to remove enough parts from the front of the car to fit your impact on correctly shroud fan and maybe the rad,not sure but on any car I have ever worked on you need the space in front of the engine to loosen the crank pulley bolt without turning the engine.
Trying to make sense of this response...I have taken the fan off, along with shroud, the crank bolt and pulley/dampener need to come off in order to access the timing cover. A basic impact wrench and socket does not fit, which is pretty typical for most cars ive worked on. I need to brace the pulley/dampener.
Car has 75k and timing is off due to a slip when replacing tensioner. Asking specific question for a specific reason
Manual. There is still some give in the crank, I put it in 5th and set the brake. It is close to 45* before it really catches. Right now it is at TDC, but i can always reset it. I am pretty wary of reverse rotation from a previous timing job that didnt go well on another car.
The chain jumped on one of the cams (think it was intake) so it ran but kinda crappy and threw codes. I am biting the bullet and replacing/retiming it. The play is in the driveline and not the chain -- the clutch, trans, etc just isnt 'tight' enough to hold the engine from turning a little bit. Every writeup and service manual I have seen has explicitly mentioned not to turn the engine counterclockwise but also not mentioned how to knock the crank bolt loose.
The factory service manual didn't mention it in the removal instructions, but the tool specified in that manual will prevent any motion, so maybe it wasn't thought necessary.
To take the slop out of the driveline you could push the car against engine compression until it is tight, then set the brake.
While I agree it can be a risk to rotate the engine backwards, I do not think that a partial movement will hurt anything. Of course, it isn't my engine ......
Are you doing this on a hoist? If not, you almost have to remove the radiator and shroud. I approached mine about 2 months ago, thinking my vibration was a skipped link in the balancer chain (if you are in there replacing the timing, do the balancer too!) and put my car back together after a tech friend looked at it and told me I was nuts to try and do it without a hoist and help! So it's back together and I've figured out what the vibration is....it wasn't the balancer!!
I am doing it on ramps, but I did get the bolt off this morning. Basically said screw it and used the flex bar with the car in 5th. The engine did end up turning maybe 10* counter rotated but thats it. Now I gotta dig out my puller...
Job done, purring like a kitten again. I did need to use the puller for the crank, mine was stuck on there. The car was sitting for a while, so not too surprised. I ended up using zipties to secure the crank to the puller, worked well.
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