|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-04-2019 10:52 AM|
|06-03-2019 07:55 PM|
|coothethird||I see. So use a ported banjo bolt. With the appropriate threads, of course.|
|06-03-2019 02:08 PM|
|Robotech||Basically, look at where your overflow coolant tank line connects to the head on your LE5. If you remove that line at the head, you'll fine a hose barb that is screwed into the head (it has a small hex base you can put a wrench on...10mm??? Don't remember). If you were to remove that, you now have the hole where the LNF turbo's water return connects to using a banjo fitting with a hose barb that screws into the top of it for the overflow line. That's how the factory LNF is setup. I don't have pictures but if you do a google image search for LNF and look in that area of the engine, you'll see how its done. I'm going to try to use that setup on my new engine but it will come down to clearance for my return style fuel rail. That makes it a little tight up there.|
|06-01-2019 05:02 PM|
Ok, I am finally going to start gaining more traction on this build. I am in the process of doing R&R on the clutch and waterpump (<may convert to electric), so it seems a good time to take other stuff apart too...
New parts(well, new to me):
-AEM wideband o2 controller (Re-found from another project, previously though lost in a move...)
-GFB G-Force III EBC (Scored this super cheap NIB, will see how it works out)
-42lb ev6 injectors (will work for now, until I decide to pull a Robo and blow her up... JK)
-Solo Cat-free downpipe
-OEM RL intercooler
-OEM RL charge pipes
-DDM turbo to airbox elbow
(Thanks to Skersfan for having some IC parts stashed away!)
Question about coolant (Water) hookup on the turbo:
- I have an LNF t-stat housing a pipe (it's off a Regal, so maybe it fits... lol). So the OEM water line should hook easily from T-stat housing to turbo. After re-reading Robotech's build, there was an edit about returning straight to the head (LNF style). Could someone elaborate on the fitting in the head? Maybe a picture of this fitting?
|06-30-2018 03:24 AM|
I believe they may be slightly smaller than 2.5 but you can get 2.5 pipes into them with some finessing.
Throttle body for the LE5 I think is closer to 2.75".
As for the eBoost2, there are some major differences such as boost level over time boost switching, number of boost groups, and the fact that the eBoost2 is a gauge rather than a box you have to mount somewhere. I have my eBoost2 in a pillar gauge pod. I paid less for my eBoost2 used than retail on the eBoost street.
|06-29-2018 05:00 PM|
Is the stock intercooler outlet 2.5"? Also, is the le5 throttle body 2.5"?
The reason I ask about the eboost2 is because I was looking at the eboost2 and eboost street that a friend has. The only boost control difference I could find was the rSP function.
|06-29-2018 04:49 PM|
page 30 in the manual.
|06-28-2018 08:02 PM|
Robotech, are you using the rSP function on your eboost 2?
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|06-26-2018 05:03 PM|
I guess it would make sense to get all the couplers together since I will need to put a cold side pipe together anyway. And some form of intake.
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|06-26-2018 04:33 PM|
I was informed that the stock couplers and clamps may need to be omitted and replaced with better aftermarket ones. Any suggestions on which ones would be better?
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|06-22-2018 12:27 PM|
Some things, like the hot side pipe and intake (mine is about $100 intake built from parts off eBay and PepBoys...LOL) but other things, like the AEM WB, are worth spending the coin.
THAT said, the "high-boost" engine kits ARE required if you go with a bigger turbo and higher boost levels. Our engines have 10.4:1 compression while the LNFs are 9.2:1. If you run higher boost on the LE5 with that high of compression, you stand a good chance of blowing a head gasket or damaging the engine (I still wonder though if E85 would be able to let you run higher compression and more boost since it is supposed to like high compression and be more efficient with that...but I'm sure someone out there knows this...LOL). Thus if you go with a turbo that flows more air and higher levels of boost, you need to reduce compression (especially if you're not on E85 or another blend I'm sure). These "High-Boost" engine kits have a thicker head gasket and slightly longer timing chain which can be installed to lower compression without rebuilding the entire engine and replacing the pistons.
IF I stay LE5 I will probably just build up the engine with forged pistons designed to operate at 9.2:1 compression. If you don't want that expense and still want more power, the "high-Boost" engine kit would be for you. This is also where the argument can be made with sticking with the stock Redline/GXP hot side pipe. If you are wanting more power than what this current build will give, you'll need a different turbo. If you go with a different turbo, the stock Redline/GXP hot pipe may not work and the new turbo may have a new hot pipe designed for use with it in our cars. If you custom built/bought a hot pipe, then that money would eventually be wasted anyway.
|06-21-2018 08:07 PM|
Thanks for the thorough response!
Is a stock (gxp/redline) hot side charge pipe worth using? Or should I just get/make a better one while sorting out the cold side pipe?
Do you use your wideband for any data output? Or any data logging? I will probably get a cheap ish one unless there are other reasons to get an aem.
I was definitely looking at an electronic boost controller. Again, I will probably get a cheap ish one.
I think a return fuel system with boost reference is also a good idea. I'm looking at getting a used rail, so I can modify/weld on it and have it ready.
Another question, I have seen a "hi-boost" engine kit. Are these worth doing?
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|06-20-2018 11:03 AM|
On the "cold side" charge pipe, unless you're good at welding metal tubing, buy a charge pipe. I want to say DDM is aluminum and RPM uses steel but either will work. Just be sure your pipe on the cold side is between 2.75" and 3". Any smaller or larger and your stock LE5 MAF (which will go in this pipe...so you will need a GM MAF bung of the proper tube diameter if you're going to weld this yourself) tables will be WAY off. Martin's tuner HIGHLY suggests not to use anything smaller than a 2.75" pipe here since it will make it easier for you to run off your MAF table.
Also, you cannot take the oil pan off the engine while the engine is in the car. You have to remove the engine to remove the oil pan. So unless you're wanting to pull the engine, RPM's method or the DDM kit that sends the oil return line to the front of the engine and into the water pump timing cover are your oil return options.
The downpipe to exhaust bolts/studs may break when you remove them because...well...they do that. You can replace them with standard bolts of the same thread pitch as stock IF you're using an OEM cat for your downpipe. If you go aftermarket, you will need bolts AND nuts but they will provide that with the aftermarket cat. The nuts that hold the downpipe to the turbo...THOSE I'd only buy as OEM.
FOR ME, my original target was much higher than that. I currently am at about 265 whp on 15 psi and without changing the head gasket, I wouldn't go any more than that. With that, I have 60lb injectors with the RPM in tank fuel pump (greater flow) feeding a modified DDM fuel rail that has been converted to make my fuel system a boost reference return style fuel system incorporating a fuel regulator on the rail that will raise and lower fuel pressure based on intake manifold pressure.
What does that mean and why did I do it? Simple, injectors are rated by how much fuel they flow for a given fuel pressure. HOWEVER, this fuel pressure number ISN'T the fuel pressure of the fuel in the rail but rather the pressure difference between the pressure of the fuel in the rail and the pressure of the chamber they're spraying into. SO, if you have a fuel pressure in the rail of 40psi, and a pressure in the manifold of 0 psi (no boost, no vacuum) then a 60lb injector flows at 60lbs of fuel per minute.
HOWEVER, your intake manifold when you're boosted is not at 0 psi very often. It's either below that (when you're off boost) or above that (when you make boost). So if you're at WOT and say at 10 psi, the pressure that the injectors are now flowing at isn't 40 psi. It's the 40 psi of fuel pressure minus the 10 psi of pressure in the manifold (your boost) and thus your injectors are flowing LESS than 60 lbs/min and thus must be spraying longer to get the same amount of fuel into the manifold.
With a boost reference return system like I have, the fuel regulator also sees what pressure the intake manifold is at and increases or decreases pressure accordingly. Thus, when my system sees 10 psi of boost, the regulator adds 10 psi more pressure to the fuel system. Thus my 60 lbs injectors would flow at 60 lbs/min regardless of how much boost I run because at 10 psi of manifold pressure my fuel pressure is now 50 psi rather than 40 psi and thus the pressure difference remains at 40 psi. (not my real numbers, btw...just for example).
Right now I run about 50 psi of pressure at 0 psi manifold pressure. The other thing this helps with is idle. The bigger injectors are a bit tougher to dial in at idle with the stock system because at idle, you're manifold is under vacuum. This means that 40 psi of pressure difference we talked about before could be 55-65 psi now. With greater pressure, the injectors flow MORE fuel than 60 lb/min and thus it's a bit tougher for the ECM to adjust fueling with the larger injectors. With my system, the fuel pressure at idle is LESS than my 50 psi and thus the ECM doesn't work as hard to maintain a smooth idle.
At my settings, at WOT the injectors are still "on" 70% of the time. When an injector is running at 90% of the time we say they are "maxed" and the user should be using a larger injector. My injectors and system will probably support close to 315 whp which was more inline with my original goal of 400 whp in stages. What I have now is about the furthest you can go on the LE5 with the K04 turbo. She just runs out of breath too soon. I make my max power at only 4600 RPMs.
Believe me, if you've read my build thread then you know I built my system for dirt cheap to start with. Some things you've left off...
A boost controller. Without one you're stuck at 5-6 psi max which is what the factory wastegate spring on the K04 will allow. Mechanical will get you higher but boost WILL drop off with RPM with the K04. I fought this for a LONG time and only with going with an eBoost2 Electronic Boost Controller (about $500 retail but I got mine used because I ball on a budget...homie...LOL) which will compensate for this did I finally fix it (didn't up my WHP max though because of the aforementioned breathing issue with the K04).
Tuning. You HAVE to tune this thing to make it work. This will probably be one of the larger expenses of the whole build. Again, I got lucky here and had friends with HPTuners and knew a bit how to get it in the ball park. This is going to be a $400+ expense depending on which route you go. HOWEVER, make SURE if you buy a tune from somewhere that you buy one where they scan and tune your car rather than a "canned" tune they just put on and say good enough. These LE5 turbo builds are quirky from what I've seen and you want a tune for YOUR setup in YOUR conditions using gas local to you.
Finally but most importantly, a Wide Band O2. We LE5 guys aren't blessed with a Wide Band (WB) O2 from the factory like those LNF (Redline/GXP) guys...jerks (LOL)...so we have to add one to get a proper air/fuel ratio(AFR) reading. You CAN do this build without one but if your wide open throttle (WOT) tuning is off and you're running super lean, you won't really know it without a WB. They're not cheap and you need a gauge pod (which means you can put in a boost gauge...and who wouldn't want to see the boost they added to their LE5, right?) but it is good insurance to make sure you don't make the engine go boom. I have the AEM wide band with gauge and it runs around $300. Well worth it in my opinion.
To me, having that O2 is why my engine is still running strong. I put the turbo on at about 77K miles and have 125K on it now without any major engine issues. All my issues have been little thing with the parts I've added.
Feel free to post more questions here as they come up and good luck with your build.
|06-20-2018 09:03 AM|
Another Le5 Sky turbo add
I have started gathering parts to add a turbo to my otherwise stock 2007 sky base (manual). After looking at Robotech's build, I decided I wanted to try it. I have ordered the following:
Used from stock redline:
Water lines (in and out)
Oil lines (in and out)
Bumper braces (left and right)
Facia (plastic tray thing)
Intercooler brackets (left and right)
Front bumper grill air housing
Now come the questions...
(1) I would like to rebuild the turbo, or have it rebuilt. I thought about buying a new cartridge and swapping it with the old one. Any advice on a cost effective rebuild or rebuild service would be appreciated.
(2) Charge pipes. Is it worth it to buy these pre-made? (RPM for example, $450). Or could I achieve a quality result using a diy intercooler tube kits? Is there an optimal place to put the maf? It seems most of the mafs are right before the throttle body.
(3) turbo cat/downpipe. I do not need or want a cat, but would run a gutted cat for the time being. What is the most cost effective way to connect the turbo bits to the stock exhaust?
(4) Stock redline oil lines. I am planning to drill/tap the oil pan (I think that's the stock RL drain to location) so that I can just use the factory drain line. Any reason this is a stupid idea?
(5) Bolts/fasteners. I do not want to pay the premium price for factory bolts. Any reason that I couldn't just use hardware store fasteners for the brackets? Any special fasteners for the plastic parts?
(6) Intercooler. What is the most cost effective one to use?
(7) fuel system. I am planning on getting some 42 or 60 lb injectors. Still haven't decided which. Any need to change the stock pump, lines, etc?
I'm sure there will be more questions coming soon.