|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-08-2019 07:40 AM|
Good Job there. Mission accomplished. Patting one's self on the back for persistence and saving massive bucks to
the bottom line for this type of repair to our model. Documented, part #'s, photo evidence of repair in progress, costs,
and frustration factor by owner/operator/mechanic in charge another successful operation performed. WD. Have a beer on me.
BUT... lol. Saving the big cost by the DYI has it's drawbacks. While another member here spent the Big bucks at $2700. for this
same job... you had some advantage by having a donor car/motor apart for this replacement. That helps. Not every owner will
have this advantage or cost saving measure for this repair. Time involved and the huge savings in parts costs for the timing chain,
tensioners, sprockets, guides, bolts, etc. Combining OEM parts, new/used with aftermarket parts is tricky as you found out. Glad
that things are running so "smoothly " in your motor now. It purrs like a kitten now, like from the factory day one. That takes care of the mechanicals in the motor dept.
Now moving on the cooling part Water pump replacement. Sooner or later this will go on our model. Mark calander date here moment. Cooling the motor parts, new & recently replaced ones is key here to long life in your motor,
miles of smiles, along with oil/filter changes. Oil & Coolant key fluids for continuing permagrin status in your future.
Finding the other items that need maintenance here too along the way, the odd hose or belt, plug change, air filter changed,and anything else while the motor is a part. That peace of mind reassurance that when your out there in the boonies,
carving up the twisty's.. you don't want something minor ( I knew I should have replaced the belt ) to go wrong after a time consuming repair job whatever the cost is to you and getting your Kappa back on the asphalt.
Glad you completed the task at hand, solved the problems along the way and are now...it's back to the asphalt for this Kappa.
Nothing else like it, the pride of satisfaction for job completed, I can drive it again! Ye Ha moment. We're Back.
It's pain when you can't go cruising in your Sky. In the shop, down for repairs, parts on order, shipment due soon.
I mentioned Time involved in this repair here by our member. A lot.
In the driveway/garage or at the dealer... down time is no fun time. What do you mean.. no smiles for me
for the next... few days, weeks... months?
It's gonna cost how much to fix this? Holy sh*t. Gulp.. never a fun moment in any drivers lifetime.
Whether you are providing the credit card $$$ or to the sweat, busted knuckles, I have to buy another tool again
for this repair... it pays off in the end, when "you" drive off into the wild blue err black asphalt landscape.
I have enjoyed two trips recently in my Sky. Yesterday's interstate blast for coffee & doughnuts breakfast with friends.
Yeah.. I did blip the throttle couple of times, scooting around the tractor trailers.
45 minutes down, 45 minutes there, 45 minutes back home.
Turbo test successful. Check. Fluids good? Check.
Tire pressures good too? Yep. 85 mile trip on the odo. Car can sleep for a few days now.
The day long run to Conowingo Dam ( June 26th ) was a pleasure for me. See text read in album section on profile page of this trip. I had never been to this spot in my home state before. Bingo. That box is now checked off the my To Do List.
Just went for it... Go-Pro, cold drink... keys... 7 1/2 hrs. 204 miles later, smiling ear to ear. Beautiful countryside cruise.
It's why I bought the car in the first place to drive to locations like this one, for the day, for a weekend getaway,
or the road trip to points unknown destinations. Throw a dart at the map... that's the destination for this weekends cruise.
Reviewing video footage now ( 2 selected ) for LAC Films You-Tube site posting soon of this trip, later this month I hope?
Adding two new roads ( real corkers with twisty's) also with this update to You-Tube for the Back Roads of Washington County series, with at least one of these road videos.. that hopefully has at "road level cam" down low view!
Been wanting to try this out with the Go-Pro and the Kappa.
Stay tuned this month profile page for link updates for these 4 new videos coming to LAC Films soon gang.
The road is calling to you... Can you & your Kappa come out and play today?
Unless your Kappa is down for repairs.. that is? Every car owner hates this part of car/truck vehicle relationship/ownership.
The down time... comes with the territory and cost $$$ of you the owner/operator.
Through the Good times and Bad... through the inexpensive quick fix (that was fast 5 minutes, $5.00 let's drive),
to the time consuming job( a month's worth ) costing a right arm and left leg ( dangerous territory to your credit card or your
significant others relationship status ) to get back out there on the asphalt... where we belong! It's Turn and Burn time.
Asphalt matters to some of us... comes with a cost and down time involved, your results will vary.
|07-08-2019 05:27 AM|
|07-08-2019 02:15 AM|
I ended up replacing my water pump, balance shaft chain setup and the timing chain.
Parts I used from my 2007 Sky's (~40k mileage) that has a hurt #1 piston and getting a full replacement engine:
Balance crankshaft sprocket
Crankshaft timing sprocket
Parts I bought:
Timing chain set - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-4201sx
Balance chain set - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-4202s
Timing cover gasket kit - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-tcs46079
Valve cover gasket - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs50778r
Camshaft bolts - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-74114
Water pump - https://www.ebay.com/itm/322837746357
Balancer/Dampener bolt - GM pn 11589123
Universal Coolant, 2 gallons
Distilled water. 2 gallons
Total spent: $337
Had I bought new instead of using the lower mileage parts it would have been another ~$310 plus shipping and tax as the crank pulley is $20, the cam phasers are around $100 each and the balance crankshaft sprocket (pn 12642713) is another $90.
Here is the video that I followed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hScoa75q7A It also has part numbers. Only thing I did different was installing the timing chain tensioner guide before I installed the chain. I couldn't get the tensioner to go in after the chain had been installed and it wasn't really in the way doing anything else. I also needed a second person to finally get the timing chain aligned properly. Mostly she held the intake camshaft while I rotated and aligned the exhaust sprocket but 3 hands where needed.
I did buy the balance shaft kit with sprockets, but the crankshaft one is wrong. I knew that when I bought it, but I wanted the two other sprockets that go on the balance shafts. For the timing chain I did not buy the kit with sprockets because the only sprocket in the kit that does me any good is the crankshaft one and it was enough more expensive that it wasn't worth it.
The OEM 2007 balance shaft sprocket is not marked at the same point as the Cloyes replacement. The Cloyes is marked 180 degrees from the key way while the factory one was marked one tooth off from 180. This meant that I had to make some adjustments to how I aligned it as it meant that the chain was not marked the same as the factory one. Not complicated but it took me a bit to figure out why I couldn't get things aligned properly. I think new replacements are marked the same as the Cloyes as one of the videos I watched had it at the straight down position. I'm pretty sure everything is aligned correctly as my engine is very smooth, like so smooth that when I came to a stop after driving for a bit I thought that the car had died.
Total time invested in fixing the car... a lot. The tools are rather straight forward except for the 32mm socket for the timing chain tensioner, 10mm hex for the plug on the front of the engine and a 15/16th wrench for the camshafts (an adjustable wrench could be easily used). However, after seeing what TonyRedLine spent, $2700, it was worth the savings. I didn't even jack up the car to do it, the only things I did from underneath was open the radiator petcock to drain the system. I did not take off the hood but it would have made things easier, as the hood was off of my 2007 and it was a lot faster to disassemble.
Last is that it turned out to be a great time to do some maintenance type items. I think the spark plugs may have been stock... they had a GM part number on them and were a pain to get broken loose. I replaced them with a set of AC Delco's I had bought when troubleshooting my 07. Serpentine belt was in bad shape with deep cracks. The power steering belt wasn't in as bad as shape but it also got replaced. My upper radiator hose also had a hole worn in it from the cooling fan shroud that may have turned into a leak shortly. All these items actually came off of the 07 to give me time to get another Summit Racing order together. I noticed that the Continental radiator hose actually has a protective sleeve on it to avoid what happened to my factory hose. I'll be doing an oil change once my new oil filters get here as I had done one right before this all happened, but it's cheap and I'll sleep better. My air filter was also gross so I ordered a new AC Delco one, but didn't have a spare from the 07 as it has an aftermarket intake.
|07-01-2019 04:34 PM|
|psmith32||I've never seen the backside of a chain tensioner pop off.|
|06-26-2019 08:59 PM|
|06-26-2019 06:27 PM|
I found the problem....
No idea what order things occurred in, but I am guessing that the guide snapped, the tensioner went all wonky, and then it stripped the sprocket.
|06-26-2019 10:44 AM|
Yes the chain should be tight, and yes contamination of one or both of the solenoids is a common result of a worn tensioner.
|06-26-2019 10:31 AM|
Originally Posted by marlboromike View Post
|06-26-2019 10:26 AM|
|06-26-2019 01:32 AM|
Ok, so back on topic.... the chain on the water pump shouldn't be loose, right? I can't really see in there but I reached in and wiggled the chain... and it was definitely not tight. I figured it should be under tension.
I'm thinking the issue isn't my water pump but the chain that drives it or the sprocket on the other end... same type of issue that TonyRedline had. Just crazy that I'd have the issue at basically exactly the same time. I also had a cam adjuster fail just before this all happened, just like he had right afterwards...
|06-17-2019 03:40 PM|
Originally Posted by rojam35 View Post
|06-14-2019 10:09 PM|
Originally Posted by mtdjohn2018 View Post
|06-14-2019 09:14 AM|
Originally Posted by DaveOC View Post
|06-13-2019 11:34 PM|
So I took the hose that runs from the tube that runs from the tube that runs under the turbo to the heater core, started the car and no coolant came out.
Hooked up the vacuum bleeder, made all kinds of gurgling noises from that hose and when I plugged it with my finger there was suction.
Filled the hole with coolant until it started to dribble out of the heater core, put the hose back on and started the car. Let it warm up to 130 or so and no warm air out of the heater.
Out of ideas as to what to check at this point outside of starting to tear it down to replace the water pump...
|06-13-2019 10:30 PM|
It would be very very rare for a water pump to fail in a mode to where it quit pumping water. You probably just have air in the system.
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