|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-14-2019 08:41 AM|
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
|07-13-2019 11:02 PM|
Hmm, I never realised you could brick an RPi by under voltage. Very strange.
As for Mic position, I posted about this years ago... I tried a number of places when I was using a Parrot Bluetooth setup. The best place I found was in the top left corner of the windshield, right where the factory put theirs. Go figure
Lastly, how did you end up clipping the screen in place - did you use speaker grill clips?
|07-13-2019 06:52 PM|
Is there an under-volt protection circuit in your future?
I think what you have to do is put the picture on your computer, correct the rotation, and save it with a different name.
For some reason just saving it doesn't correct the orientation.
|07-13-2019 06:24 PM|
Mid step update:
It's been a little while since I last updated and there has been an interesting "lessons learned" experience. I ended up having a battery that was at the end of its life and when I went for a trial run I must have drained the battery too much because I attempted to start the car and nothing. Wouldn't even charge on the charger after that and replaced the battery. Side note issue is I ended up bricking the Raspberry Pi due to under voltage (won't show SD card activity anymore) also corrupted the SD card...
Anyway, replacement battery, Raspberry Pi and Micro SD card.... plus redeveloping some of the scripts I had put together because I built them on the Pi and didn't save them and I'm back to where I was 2 weeks ago. Installed the setup in the car and.... it works!
- Finalizing Mic position, I currently have it clipped to the left side of the center console near my right thigh but haven't settled on that yet. (I haven't went through the mic placement post I've seen on here yet)
- Have not started routing or mouting the backup camera
- Setting up the usb hub in the glove box cleanly which will possibly route to the "cigarette lighter" plug in a near future update for passenger phone connection
Below is a picture of the unit in place, the AC controls aren't full snapped back into place but you get the idea
***Anyone know why no matter what I do my picture attaches sideways?***
|07-01-2019 11:07 PM|
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
|07-01-2019 11:05 PM|
|07-01-2019 11:04 PM|
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
|07-01-2019 10:24 PM|
I too am glad that the mystery has been solved, and I think that ultimately you will be happier with the Monsoon than without it. You will have to reduce your output to prevent over-driving the amp.
Pins 1 & 2 are L & R XM audio (+), with pin 9 as the (-) for both channels.
Pin 3 is the 12-volt signal from the head unit to turn on the amp. Any time there is 12 V on that wire the amp will be on, and it gets its power straight from the fuse block, so control it carefully to avoid a dead battery.
Pin 15 Remote Radio Control mutes the amp when it sees 12 V. I left it un-connected.
|07-01-2019 08:30 PM|
Well I learned something new today. I thought the Monsoon system was only paired with the 6 CD changer (which I knew I didn't have) but I did find a UQ3 on my glove box. I'm no audiophile but I would not have guessed I even had a sub in the car from the way the audio quality seems.
Once again, thanks John for the invaluable info and ideas. I'm mostly relieved that the problem is clear now. So, is the solution as simple as sending the battery's accessory power to the amp? Looking at the connector wiring diagram I see a "Radio On Signal" and "Remote Radio Control Signal". Pins 1&2 are also L/R audio signal + which I don't understand.
It's sad that I would have preferred to not have the Monsoon now haha.
|07-01-2019 12:56 AM|
I can only think of two possibilities here:
1) You are mixing up the speaker wires and using the (+) from one with the (-) of another.
2) You do actually have a Monsoon system, and aren't getting anything because the amp is not powered.
Two things to do:
1) Double-check the RPO codes in the glove box for a UW5 or a UQ3
2) Connect an ohm meter across the (+) and (-) terminals you are using to measure the impedance.
|06-30-2019 11:44 PM|
|marlboromike||John has a skill set that is amazing. I need him to return to Florida to install a backup camera in my mirror. No installer is capable of this. Come on down John.|
|06-30-2019 06:16 PM|
|Bpm009||You're awesome John, much appreciated. Fortunately/unfortunately everything lines up correctly. As a test I disregarded the harness and put Dupont jumpers from the +/- pins on the car plugs directly to my mini amp. Still no sound. Plugged the old radio back in for sanity purposes and it works... I have no idea how to troubleshoot further...|
|06-30-2019 01:55 PM|
Notice that the same pins do double duty for Monsoon/non-Monsoon, and since you do not have a Monsoon system the speaker connections go straight to the speakers.
Notice also that each speaker has its own (+) and (-) connection.
|06-30-2019 01:35 PM|
Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the harness plugs that go into the stock radio? I've been looking around online but keep getting shady website links. I want to do a pin to pin check and compare the corresponding aftermarket harness to the radio plugs.
So far I've tested with a 9V battery, the intended setup and I tried my 3.5mm phone output through a mini amp. All nothing. The speakers should work even with the car off right, independent of car power? This is baffling me...
|06-28-2019 03:48 PM|
I like th 9V battery test idea, I'll give that a go also. Yeah the specs mention 4-8ohm impedance I would still think I should get something out of the 4ohm rears even if it has an issue with the 2ohm sides? After the 9V battery test I'll connect just the L/R rear speaker cables and see what happens before trying the full setup.
Tried the 9V battery test and got no static or sounds from the speakers... now I'm stuck again. The only thing I can think of is the wire harness is either wired wrong or bad.
I have the LC-GMRC-LAN-03 harness
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