|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-20-2019 05:14 PM|
|Sky_Pilot||Hmmm, my performance upgrade tip is to upgrade to a Tesla Model 3 Performance version, 3.2 seconds 0-60 and cruise in the Sky in top-down weather..|
|08-19-2019 10:37 PM|
|dbs1||You 2 are naughty...|
|08-13-2019 04:12 PM|
Originally Posted by JohnWR View Post
...then pick up a used throttle body off an LSJ for $100 or less and have something that improves throttle response for around the same price. May not be a huge improvement, but it would be an improvement.
|08-13-2019 02:43 PM|
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
|08-13-2019 11:52 AM|
Originally Posted by dbs1 View Post
Now you may like the feel of having more throttle for less pedal movement and, if you do, then this works for you. Just realize that you get to full throttle quicker and past a certain point in the gas pedal travel the pedal isn't doing anything since the throttle body is already at 100% open before the pedal is.
For the average driver this affect may be fine. For those of us who push the car, we know our throttle and want the full range of it's motion. If we want more throttle response, we'll put a bigger throttle body on the car.
|08-12-2019 08:56 PM|
I've got to reply to the sprint booster comments...many folks buy and use products others consider a waste of $.
I recently installed a sprint booster on my RL as I was not happy with the lazy throttle. It did exactly what I was looking for, improving the throttle response.
If you've tried it and it wasn't your cup,o tea, I get that. But dismissing it without any real expereince with it in my opinion is silly. That would be like saying the tune isn't worth it because...whatever.
Is it worth the $250 I paid? For me, yes! For others? Maybe not.
|05-13-2019 11:47 AM|
Originally Posted by Gleasonfan View Post
Honestly at that mileage the biggest things to look for are the water pump leak (if it hasn't been replaced already), timing chain, shocks, and the turbo. Some have reported major engine issues around that time too but the reports are few and far between...but they are there.
I would check your timing chains first and, if the guides/tensioners are worn, replace them and the chain. If the chains wore through the plastic part of the guides, got into the metal, and you're seeing metallic flakes in the oil, do an oil change, drive it for 500 miles, and do another to see if the oil is coming out clean.
If all that is good, some simple mods shouldn't be too hard on the engine. You can do intake if you like the noise, exhaust for either sound or looks (I like many of the aftermarket tips far better than the stock tips), and a tune. You'll be very happy with that setup, have a little more power, a little better (my opinion.. @skersfan felt the intake made the bypass valve sound like a goat) sound, and a different look.
Beyond engine upgrades, most shocks go about 70K miles or so. If yours are feeling worn out (car bounces) or show signs of leaking, getting new shocks or upgrading to coil overs can be a performance upgrade too that won't hurt anything at that mileage. Anti-Sway bars, front brace, "backbone" brace and rear suspension brace upgrades can also be beneficial to handling and again, car mileage really isn't important here.
If you do a lot of hard driving in mountain roads, upgrade your brakes. At a minimum, go with better pads and, if it hasn't been done, drain and replace your brake fluid. Stainless steel lines also are helpful to the stock brakes. That will improve the stock brakes to a point where they should be far less susceptible to brake fade when pushed hard. You can go further with brake upgrades but unless you're REALLY pushing it hard for a LONG time (racetrack or hard driving on mountain roads for an extended period of time) a pad upgrade and braided lines should be more than enough to have a good, safe, brake system. Like the other suspension stuff, these kinds of upgrades are only going to make the car better with the mileage you have on it.
|05-12-2019 10:04 PM|
|Gleasonfan||Dang, Robotech. I think you just wrote a lecture for Advanced Redline Fun. I was considering doing some tweaks to the 2008 Redline I recently acquired but now I think I'll just run some engine cleaner thru the ol' girl and leave well enough alone. At 100K on the clock I'm reluctant to do much mechanical.|
|05-12-2019 08:48 PM|
Originally Posted by RedOne07 View Post
|05-12-2019 02:18 PM|
Agree - waste of money.
My BMW has a stock switch that does this - I never use it. If I want to accelerate harder I just press the pedal further. Good example of a product turning nothing into money, though.
|05-11-2019 03:26 PM|
Originally Posted by rojam35 View Post
|05-11-2019 12:37 AM|
I have never tried this. But I know there is a similar piece for the Toyota FJ and Tacoma. Have several friends that have them and it does not really improve horsepower, but does improve performance.
The 2016 Tacoma's were really down on performance I have been told, but with this installed. It felt like the older engines performance wise. I drove the 2016 Demello truck at the National in 2017. It felt exactly like my 2007 FJ. Supposedly before this was installed, they were very sluggish. No idea about the later models though.
|05-10-2019 09:11 PM|
Has anyone tried this product? Looks easier than a tune. Seems like something Robotech would have an opinion on.
|05-10-2019 12:21 AM|
Originally Posted by RedOne07 View Post
|05-08-2019 11:06 AM|
Venom Brace Mod with Stock Airbox
I installed the Venom Brace and was anticipating installing the RPM CAI. The Venom brace went in without an issue. I could not get the RPM CAI to fit so I reinstalled the stock air intake. The brace interferes with the stock intake and I had DDM send me the spacer. Looking at the spacer I am not sure what it is supposed to do or how it is to be installed. Anyone use this in their setup?
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